Problem's start JD6230

[Formatted]

I posted a month ago about battery replacement, I've changed the battery but regularly finding that the tractor is slow to start (need a long time turning the key), sometimes it starts quickly but then will stall almost immediately. The tractor then doesn't have enough charge in the battery to then start and it needs a jump start, when you jump start it, the tractor starts immediately. If the tractor is warm and you stall it then it starts with no issue.

Is there an easy way to diagnose the issue? When it was serviced in October the mechanic said the fuel lines needed replacing as they leaked a bit?

 

[agrimax]

If the fuel lines are leaking at all,air will get in and fuel will be running back to the tank.

 

[solo]

Change the rubber fuel hoses as it sounds like they are porous. I gave up years ago with jD fuel hose as it needs to be replaced every couple of years. I’ve been using fuel hose from Pirtek and not had to replace any yet. Can’t help with the starting issue apart from checking and cleaning all contact terminals.

 

[Sharpy]

To me it sounds like the starter is tired as well as the fuel line issue. Replace the fuel lines first as that's cheapest then if necessary the starter. A good starter will whirl the engine over much faster and this makes for a quick start and a battery which isn't being flattened on every cold start. @ACEngineering supplies Iskra geared starters which are superb.

 

[ACEngineering]

To me it sounds like the starter is tired as well as the fuel line issue. Replace the fuel lines first as that's cheapest then if necessary the starter. A good starter will whirl the engine over much faster and this makes for a quick start and a battery which isn't being flattened on every cold start. @ACEngineering supplies Iskra geared starters which are superb.

Yes Forget the fuel issue for a minute because engine should still crank over nicely fuel or no fuel.

Obviously need to check connections etc and make sure charging circuit is working right and theres no excessive discharge drain on battery but assuming there isnt a decent starter motor will fix the poor cranking.

 

[Phil P]

I’ll guess it’s premium and got the common rail engine?
Think I may have said on your last thread about checking the terminals on the starter? You need to remove the plastic cover and the two 17mm nuts, check both the big terminals for corrosion, bad contacts is a VERY common fault!
As for the cutting out, air is getting into the system and allowing fuel to run back to the tank. The usual culprits are the hoses as you’ve already been advised about and the O-ring on the glass filter bowl is either missing or the incorrect one fitted!
Jd have now gone to a rubber hose which is much better instead of the beaded stuff, it’s worth replacing all the pipe not just any bits that look damp. Also make sure the lift pump is running ok.

 

[Timbo]

Replace all the fuel braided fuel lines as above, and the little tiny 3mm length of return line that feeds back to the HP pump- start & cut out at cold start on these is always fuel running back. If you turn on the ignition for 30 seconds, the electric pump will refill the lines and it'll start & stay running. (listen in the diesel tank during this time you'll hear it bubbling)

Slow cranking will be a poor connection or the starter motor worn out - both of which are common on these engines.

 

[pauld]

Mine has fuel leaking back to tank. It will start but then cuts out and needs bleeding. As long as I leave ignition on for at least 40 seconds all is ok.

Considered fitting non return valve, changing hoses etc. but decided to leave things as they are as I have probably got a very effective anti theft device!

Just have to remind anyone else who drives it not to try starting straight away.

 

[Phil P]

Mine has fuel leaking back to tank. It will start but then cuts out and needs bleeding. As long as I leave ignition on for at least 40 seconds all is ok.

Considered fitting non return valve, changing hoses etc. but decided to leave things as they are as I have probably got a very effective anti theft device!

Just have to remind anyone else who drives it not to try starting straight away.

Just remember that depending on where the air is getting into the system (possibly on the suction side) it could be get air bubbles into the main pump which in the long run won’t do the system much good, air doesn’t have any lubrication property’s what so ever! Air and moisture can cause cavitation which will cause premature ware on components.

 

[Formatted]

I have literally zero mechanical skill, I can just about change a battery. Will I be able to change the fuel hoses?

Think I may have said on your last thread about checking the terminals on the starter? You need to remove the plastic cover and the two 17mm nuts, check both the big terminals for corrosion, bad contacts is a VERY common fault!

I'll look at this now, thanks

 

[Phil P]

I have literally zero mechanical skill, I can just about change a battery. Will I be able to change the fuel hoses?



I'll look at this now, thanks

It’s not to taxing, just replace them one at a time so as not to get mixed up! Remove a price measure and cut a new length and fit it. The one’s that attach to the lift pump are the most fiddly, but it is onl held on with 2 13mm nuts and you can lift it out for better access. It’s only a half hour job so shouldn’t be two expensive to dealers or a man in van to sort if your not confident enough yourself.

 

[Timbo]

It’s not to taxing, just replace them one at a time so as not to get mixed up! Remove a price measure and cut a new length and fit it. The one’s that attach to the lift pump are the most fiddly, but it is onl held on with 2 13mm nuts and you can lift it out for better access. It’s only a half hour job so shouldn’t be two expensive to dealers or a man in van to sort if your not confident enough yourself.

From memory they're 10mm ID and youll need approx 8m of the best R6 hose you can find..

Get a box full of new genuine jubilee clips to suit.

The fiddliest is the connections at the tank , youll need to partially lift the floor mat and will need a selection of sharp stanley knife and needle nose pliers throughout the job.

For the sections leading up to the HP pump from the filters be scrupulously clean - no dirt allowed!

Give the whole area a really good powerwash before you start.

I found the fuel cooler pipes the most fiddley as well as the little leak off tube which is small one end larger the other.