- Location
- Montgomeryshire
Concrete mixer wagons use the compression spring system and the do get themselves into fynnu situations sometimes.
Project Zetros
- Thread starter Cab-over Pete
- Start date
pail of ale
Member
Elephants feet from ATD's flex very little with much bigger loads so I couldnt see them working .
Could you mount a crossmember on the chassis , sit the ball frame on top with 3 to 6 strips of old floor belt in between running full width and clamp gently with a big U bolt or a plate top and bottom with 1 bolt front and 1 back in the middle with more rubber on the other 3 sides of the box iron and or 2 compression springs on the bolts ?
Thats a long question.
Bearingboys do a nice range of die springs which may be of use .
Very interesting project, even better than the last one. Read both word for word .
Good luck with it.
Could you mount a crossmember on the chassis , sit the ball frame on top with 3 to 6 strips of old floor belt in between running full width and clamp gently with a big U bolt or a plate top and bottom with 1 bolt front and 1 back in the middle with more rubber on the other 3 sides of the box iron and or 2 compression springs on the bolts ?
Thats a long question.
Bearingboys do a nice range of die springs which may be of use .
Very interesting project, even better than the last one. Read both word for word .
Good luck with it.
Cab-over Pete
Member
- Location
- Kenilworth, Warwickshire
Knocked up a couple of plates today that will bolt onto the side of the Zetros chassis at the back. They look ok for angle grinder cut. I don’t really do enough fabrication to justify all the kit.
The ball joint will be welded to the plate, red socket then sits on the ball, welded to the cross member. All will become clear once glued together.
I love using my Rotabroach cutter, it makes the job easy and safe. Weld the two plates together so that all holes are perfectly aligned and away you go, piece of pi$$. Handy too, when you’re a bit short of talent like me, using an 18mm cutter where you need 16mm bolts!! Gives a bit of wiggle room!
Once I’ve got the ball welded on the plate I’ll cut a 25mm hole in the back of the plate which will cut a few mm into the ball. I’ll then put a ring of weld around that to give it a bit more anchor. On the cleaned end of the socket I’ve welded a square of 10mm plate to join to the cross member, just thought it would be easier and stronger.
It’s going to be a bit of a game holding everything together to tack it in place. I could do with another pair of hands but once it’s all in place there’s not really the room. Might have to tack a piece of bar to hold the ball and socket in place, weld them in their desired place and then cut the bar off. We’ll see.
The ball joint will be welded to the plate, red socket then sits on the ball, welded to the cross member. All will become clear once glued together.
I love using my Rotabroach cutter, it makes the job easy and safe. Weld the two plates together so that all holes are perfectly aligned and away you go, piece of pi$$. Handy too, when you’re a bit short of talent like me, using an 18mm cutter where you need 16mm bolts!! Gives a bit of wiggle room!
Once I’ve got the ball welded on the plate I’ll cut a 25mm hole in the back of the plate which will cut a few mm into the ball. I’ll then put a ring of weld around that to give it a bit more anchor. On the cleaned end of the socket I’ve welded a square of 10mm plate to join to the cross member, just thought it would be easier and stronger.
It’s going to be a bit of a game holding everything together to tack it in place. I could do with another pair of hands but once it’s all in place there’s not really the room. Might have to tack a piece of bar to hold the ball and socket in place, weld them in their desired place and then cut the bar off. We’ll see.
Cab-over Pete
Member
- Location
- Kenilworth, Warwickshire
Got things tacked together today, doesn’t look too bad. On the pic here it doesn’t look quite square, but it actually is, honest!!!
Once I’ve finished with the faffing and making brackets at the front the whole body will come off again and it’ll all be welded properly.
Once I’ve finished with the faffing and making brackets at the front the whole body will come off again and it’ll all be welded properly.
Cab-over Pete
Member
- Location
- Kenilworth, Warwickshire
‘T’other side.
Cab-over Pete
Member
- Location
- Kenilworth, Warwickshire
Made these too. They will bolt onto the side of the chassis at the front to act as a rubbing pad for a pair of vertical arms off the main front cross member, just to keep everything square.
They are made from Solwsy recycled plastic lumber. The one on the right is longer and wider than the other one, reason being the smaller one needs to sneak in behind the exhaust, which doesn’t get too hot at that point and anyway will be shielded by the vertical arm.
Bit of progress, but the electric is going off any minute for overhead line repair.
They are made from Solwsy recycled plastic lumber. The one on the right is longer and wider than the other one, reason being the smaller one needs to sneak in behind the exhaust, which doesn’t get too hot at that point and anyway will be shielded by the vertical arm.
Bit of progress, but the electric is going off any minute for overhead line repair.
TheTallGuy
Member
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
Wish I could get out to play with the toys rather than trying to decorate!
- Location
- West Yorkshire
Will you be putting anything between the chassis rail and the spreader cross member to stop vibrations? Or is the body going upwards away from chassis a little in finished position to sit solely on the 3 cups ?
Cab-over Pete
Member
- Location
- Kenilworth, Warwickshire
There are nylon bushes in the cups and a thin strip of something will be put between cross member and chassis.
You can’t see from the pic but there is also a kind of foot on the front of the cross member I welded on today. I was going to put one on the back too, but it suddenly occurred to me that I might be able to tip the body on the ball slightly if I need to access in the chassis for anything in future. That wouldn’t be possible if I welded a foot on the back.
You can’t see from the pic but there is also a kind of foot on the front of the cross member I welded on today. I was going to put one on the back too, but it suddenly occurred to me that I might be able to tip the body on the ball slightly if I need to access in the chassis for anything in future. That wouldn’t be possible if I welded a foot on the back.
Cab-over Pete
Member
- Location
- Kenilworth, Warwickshire
The ball and cup fit snug together, but you can turn them easily.
Cab-over Pete
Member
- Location
- Kenilworth, Warwickshire
Making a bit of progress. All the body mounts are finished. Step bracket for a ladder to get into the body too.
I made the stubby links from the longer links supplied with the Multistrife. I’m using the same clevis on the body that was used on the Multistrife. They line up nicely with a suitable place on the Zetros chassis.
I made the stubby links from the longer links supplied with the Multistrife. I’m using the same clevis on the body that was used on the Multistrife. They line up nicely with a suitable place on the Zetros chassis.
Cab-over Pete
Member
- Location
- Kenilworth, Warwickshire
I’ve had the trailer drawbar modified. Had to build a drop into it to avoid hitting the spinner box on the Bredal. I’ve got a new clevis hitch on order which will be welded onto a HD bracket and bolted to the pre-drilled recommended mounting plate on the Zetros. I thought best that job was done by a professional coded welder.
If I’m honest, I got them to do the trailer drawbar too. I don’t have anywhere I could do a job like that in the dry and when it came cold and snowy I gave in!! They were impressed with my design though! The job was done exactly as I asked so I was pleased I was on the right track. I really thought they would say it would be no good like that!
The trailer will now only fit the Zetros and the Big A so I’ll have to make an adapter if I want to pull it with a tractor. The ring is too high for a pick up hitch at 620mm from the ground.
If I’m honest, I got them to do the trailer drawbar too. I don’t have anywhere I could do a job like that in the dry and when it came cold and snowy I gave in!! They were impressed with my design though! The job was done exactly as I asked so I was pleased I was on the right track. I really thought they would say it would be no good like that!
The trailer will now only fit the Zetros and the Big A so I’ll have to make an adapter if I want to pull it with a tractor. The ring is too high for a pick up hitch at 620mm from the ground.
- Location
- Yorkshire
It's done now but if the end that hitches to the zetros had been sleeved and bolted in would it have come out and turned over to go onto something else
ollie989898
Member
Love it when a plan comes together!
bravheart
Member
- Location
- scottish borders
Great work Pete glad to see your getting on with it.
Have you given yourself enough room between the drawbar and Spinner box? IMO it still looks a bit tight if going into a raised gateway.
Have you given yourself enough room between the drawbar and Spinner box? IMO it still looks a bit tight if going into a raised gateway.
Cab-over Pete
Member
- Location
- Kenilworth, Warwickshire
Yes, you’re right in theory, but there is steel welded inside the new beam so nothing can slide into it.
Because it’s low to the ground the new beam is 150x150mm instead of 200mm deep like the rest of it. To compensate for the smaller dimensions we welded steel inside.
Cab-over Pete
Member
- Location
- Kenilworth, Warwickshire
Thats the whole idea. There is 190mm clearance. Once it’s all done we will run the front wheels up ramps and see how high we get. Then I’ll have some idea of what to look out for.
It won’t be perfect or do everything but it’s all we can do. As long as the driver has it in mind we should be ok. It’s no different to getting to a job and the gate is too tight to get into. In that situation we unload the Loadall, take the trailer off and move it into the field with the Loadall.
- Location
- Yorkshire
Will it fit the loadall as is just to drag it off road
Cab-over Pete
Member
- Location
- Kenilworth, Warwickshire
Lift it with a strap or just lift it with the bucket edge. Depends on the situation. It’s not a regular occurrence but one I’ve planned for.