Project Zetros

Karliboy

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
West Yorkshire
Although you ran it up a pile of gravel front end only to see the twist with no body how much different would it look with a full load on board and how about a complete cross axel situation front and back? Fairly different I would think
All these situations change the length of the chassis between opposite corners.
My thinking is 2 ball and spoon type fixings at the rear (preferably above rear axle) and 2 plastic type U shaped sockets of some sort at the front to allow forwards backwards float off some sort but with no left/right movement held down vertically into the U shape with springs under tension to stop vibration that way even if it twisted enough to come out of a front socket it would always self align due to always having 3 points of contact. Plastic bushing can easily be changed fo new when worn.
I guess gateways as such will be the worst places for you to get twisted badly
just a idea feel free to pull to prices as I’m probably missing something.
 

Renaultman

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Darlington
I’m going to email Southern Spreaders down under and ask how they mount the body on a Zetros.

I’m probably worrying about nothing, but the best time to get it right is the first time.
I don't think you are, a fixed body on a flexible chassis is a recipe for disaster, even flexible bodies on flexible chassis can give problems.
I definitely think Zebedee's comments need considering but could be addressed with check straps or rods
 
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Could you mount it like a tipper body. Tipper bodies are one of the few rigid bodies which don't mount with any extra subframe. Hinged at back and just some guides on the sides nearer the front to centre it on the chassis. Some form of spring arrangement at the front to hold it down.
 

d8666

New Member
Location
Nw Ireland
Something like this perhaps at the front?
 

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Something like this perhaps at the front?

That looks like what I will do after a bit more head scratching last night.

I’m going to adapt and reuse the ball joints at the back and do something like this at the front. One of the biggest challenges will be fitting it all in at the front. Where they need to be there is a hydraulic oil tank one side and fuel tank the other. There is a few inches of room so should be ok. I don’t really want all the work of having to extend brackets and retainers for the tanks, but might have to.
 

zr105

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
East of Ireland
Would it work to use the likes of drawbar springs such as these?


By placing a large u on a plate on the side of the chassis then bolting a foot to the spreader body to sit on top, something along the lines of my very rough drawing below, basically the green being a plate bolted to the chassis, the red the spring, and then tie the whole lot down either with a large bolt down through the spring or possibly short chains between body and chassis just to keep it in check?
BAF9EEEF-398C-4174-AB42-65D963FD3BC9.jpeg
 

will l

Member
Arable Farmer
Just spoke to a man who does this for a living, He suggests putting the rigid point back of the cab mid distance from the axles and put the pivot or flex points at the back over rear axle, apparently it allows more chassis flex, Good luck however you go,He also said leave 15mm clearance between the chassis and the spreader,
 
Right.

Having spoken to, messaged and emailed a few owners of truck spreaders, they are all fixed rigid at the back. Some are on a subframe, some mounted direct. Those with a subframe seem to have weigh cells incorporated. It’s the front where the give is catered for.

At the front I’m going to have a piece of hardwood or possibly tough but flexible plastic between the chassis and body but at the back it will be mounted on the ball joints, so the chunky bracket is just touching but hardly baring down on the chassis. The rear mount will also have a long kind of foot to spread the load a little along a section of chassis maybe 8-10” rather than just the 3 1/2 inches of the box section bracket.
 
Right.

Having spoken to, messaged and emailed a few owners of truck spreaders, they are all fixed rigid at the back. Some are on a subframe, some mounted direct. Those with a subframe seem to have weigh cells incorporated. It’s the front where the give is catered for.

At the front I’m going to have a piece of hardwood or possibly tough but flexible plastic between the chassis and body but at the back it will be mounted on the ball joints, so the chunky bracket is just touching but hardly baring down on the chassis. The rear mount will also have a long kind of foot to spread the load a little along a section of chassis maybe 8-10” rather than just the 3 1/2 inches of the box section bracket.
Nice to see your plan coming together!!
 

nick...

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
south norfolk
Right.

Having spoken to, messaged and emailed a few owners of truck spreaders, they are all fixed rigid at the back. Some are on a subframe, some mounted direct. Those with a subframe seem to have weigh cells incorporated. It’s the front where the give is catered for.

At the front I’m going to have a piece of hardwood or possibly tough but flexible plastic between the chassis and body but at the back it will be mounted on the ball joints, so the chunky bracket is just touching but hardly baring down on the chassis. The rear mount will also have a long kind of foot to spread the load a little along a section of chassis maybe 8-10” rather than just the 3 1/2 inches of the box section bracket.
I’d allways assumed rigid mounting at the rear and leave the front to flex if needed.only need to look at 8 wheeler trucks of road
nick...
 

Renaultman

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Darlington
We never lift the back axle on our 29ft ridgid unless we are in a tight spot as its amazing how much they will twist off road and force moves up into the stock box
I’d allways assumed rigid mounting at the rear and leave the front to flex if needed.only need to look at 8 wheeler trucks of road
nick...
T B H that's the way they need to be to tip ;) I do agree though particularly with COP having the ball and cup brackets already there. Going back to tippers though I might be tempted to put some of the rubber blocks on along the chassis to cushion the body.
 

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