Question for the fencers.

shumungus

Member
Livestock Farmer
There are two sizes of strainrite crimp wire jointers 1.6mm to 2.5mm and 2.5mm to 3.15mm. Which are best for jointing 2.5mm HT plain wire? And yes I can tie wire knots and pull, join and tension past the limits of timber and fastenings but I haven't used these before and am going to try box strainers to save the price of a couple of posts each time. So I was going to use a couple of these and a gripple to tension a box. Anyhoo, what size?
 

ARW

Member
Location
Yorkshire
The small 2.5mm crimps will do the job
How will you save posts on box strainers? You use 2x strainers and a strut for a box?
Rather than 1x strainer, strut and post
 

shumungus

Member
Livestock Farmer
For a termination we would have used 2 strainers and three posts, 1 horizontal, 1 angled prop and 1 driven to the head. Unfortunately due to sh!t timber everything needs replaced so we are going creasoted octoposts and strainers so saving two posts is almost £7 overall per installation.
1589055542579.jpg
 

milkloss

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
East Sussex
For a termination we would have used 2 strainers and three posts, 1 horizontal, 1 angled prop and 1 driven to the head. Unfortunately due to sh!t timber everything needs replaced so we are going creasoted octoposts and strainers so saving two posts is almost £7 overall per installation.View attachment 877162

seems a lot of posts just to make a box strainer without the wire:scratchhead:
loop the wire round the top of one post and the bottom of the other, staple in each post to hold it in place and a gripple wazzed up tight somewhere in the middle.
 

shumungus

Member
Livestock Farmer
Box strainer using wire not common here. Don't know if it will be as robust as the set up shown in the photo which is common here. That way of doing it which we call H pattern migrated here with Shearer's coming home from NZ.
 
Box strut with wire will be stronger than what you have. I have HT wire with boxes put up 12 years ago by contractor, still as tight as day it was put up. Stakes rotted out but wire still tight!
Make sure you put the diagonal wire the right way.
 

ARW

Member
Location
Yorkshire
I have found box struts stronger but they can move under strain, you can level them out again by tightening the wire, if we do a box strut now we knock in the 2nd strainer to about 2ft tall and run the strut level from the middle of the 1st strainer to the top of the 2nd strainer then wire it right, this then makes the 1st strainer push against a strainer that’s in the ground 6ft, very strong, but we only do that in wet soft ground
 

tinman

Member
Location
Ulster
Box strainer using wire not common here. Don't know if it will be as robust as the set up shown in the photo which is common here. That way of doing it which we call H pattern migrated here with Shearer's coming home from NZ.
fenced 60 or 70 acres for a lad last year using mostly box frames because it was moss ground, aka, soft as it gets.
I put in first post/strainer, then the second about 4' away at the same height or slightly lower, cut a horizontal post to go between the two.
drilled a hole in one end of the horizontal post and half ways through the first post about the same height of yours, placed a short 12mm steel bar 6" or so long into the end of the horizontal post and pushed it into the hole in the first post, when it was level i drilled through the second post and on into the other side of the horizontal post, then i hammered in a longer rod 10" long and left 2" sticking out.
then i hammered in a galvanized bolt into the outside bottom of the first post (had loads after stripping telecom poles) HD staple would do either and laced HT wire in a figure 8 between the bottom of the first post under the bolt and to the top of the metal bar on the second post, then used a gripple and tension tool to pull the frame up tight.
its a very strong anchor and holds up excellent on a long pull. the only thing that will let any box frame down is if your not pulling level with it just.

yous is very well done but if you study it, the supporting post on an angle is placing a large strain on the post its attached to half ways up, indeed it might only be the picture but you can see the bow in the post with the strain, the box frame with the wire laced through it is a a stronger frame.
 

Macsky

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Highland
I used to use 3.15mm but started using a double wrap of 2.5, but find it cuts into the wood too much, and a gripple will bite right through it, prefer 3.15 tightened with a gripple and secured with a crimp.
 

Bury the Trash

Member
Mixed Farmer
How do any of you tension the plain wire in the box?
Use a tourniquet
or a lot use gripples these days.

Up to 2.5 mm's ones are ok but using them on 2.5 wire it needs to be pretty straight not kinked to slide them over else they tight to get on
 
Last edited:

milkloss

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
East Sussex
yous is very well done but if you study it, the supporting post on an angle is placing a large strain on the post its attached to half ways up, indeed it might only be the picture but you can see the bow in the post with the strain, the box frame with the wire laced through it is a a stronger frame.

I was struggling to understand the point of the box in the picture. Why bother with the second vertical post and not just strut the end post?

It does look smart and I know it's not your work but perhaps you could explain it?
 

Bury the Trash

Member
Mixed Farmer
I used to use 3.15mm but started using a double wrap of 2.5, but find it cuts into the wood too much, and a gripple will bite right through it, prefer 3.15 tightened with a gripple and secured with a cr
Can you get the 3.15 right enough though, I like them tight , an even pull them in with a tourniquet but I don't remember tourniquet ing any 3.15 tbh. Done double 2.5 tho
 

Macsky

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Highland
Can you get the 3.15 right enough though, I like them tight , an even pull them in with a tourniquet but I don't remember tourniquet ing any 3.15 tbh. Done double 2.5 tho
Plenty tight imo, and it doesn’t stretch, I had a river flood, a lot of brash gathered against the fence, stay snapped and strainer was lifted out of the ground and I found the stay wire still intact ?,
 

Bury the Trash

Member
Mixed Farmer
Plenty tight imo, and it doesn’t stretch, I had a river flood, a lot of brash gathered against the fence, stay snapped and strainer was lifted out of the ground and I found the stay wire still intact ?,
I never did get that pic of a tourniquet did I,?
Once you've put your wire in place and joined it with a crimp or just a wire twist or knot .....then Well all it is is a nice smooth bar put between the loop and turned over and over like a tourniquet, then slide out the bar ( he might be a bit stuck in need to wiggle a bit ) , done.

Puts heck of a tightening on it mind , and one to many turns and the wire will go ping ...
 

Macsky

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Highland
I never did get that pic of a tourniquet did I,?
Once you've put your wire in place and joined it with a crimp or just a wire twist or knot .....then Well all it is is a nice smooth bar put between the loop and turned over and over like a tourniquet, then slide out the bar ( he might be a bit stuck in need to wiggle a bit ) , done.

Puts heck of a tightening on it mind , and one to many turns and the wire will go ping ...
I’m just not a fan of twisting ht wire, when you see how easy it snaps when twisted off
 

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