Range Rover won't start after flat battery.

[Red Fred]

Hi, my sister's X Reg Range Rover had a flat battery for a week or so and now it won't start. It seems the immobiliser won't let it start and I wondered if this is normal behaviour, and whether there is any procedure that needs to be carried out to get it started again. Her lad put new batteries in the keyfob in case that was the problem but no joy! Any advice would be most welcome!

 

[roscoe erf]

yes it will be the mobilizer you need to re-enter the key code

 

[llamedos]

Had similar on late disco, there was some proceduer that needed following re unlocking door several times, to re set the fob. Sure someone else will recall if similar for RR

 

[roscoe erf]

Had similar on late disco, there was some proceduer that needed following re unlocking door several times, to re set the fob. Sure someone else will recall if similar for RR

yes similar if the ECU is losing sync with BECM you will need to hook it up to a diagnostic machine its a fairly common problem with p38's and can get quite expensive

 

[Red Fred]

Thanks folks, I'll pass the messages on to my sister.

 

[smcapstick]

I'll have a look for my destructions - I still have them somewhere. The joy of P38s!

 

[llamedos]

yes similar if the ECU is losing sync with BECM you will need to hook it up to a diagnostic machine its a fairly common problem with p38's and can get quite expensive

had a disco with duff spider unit nightmare, ended up bypassing imob until I culd get a new one, they were like rockining horse at the time, ran wire from fuel pump to + on battery to bypass. Stupid place to put them at side of heater vent under dash was ok if parked on a hill all the time as could over come unit by bump start

 

[smcapstick]

had a disco with duff spider unit nightmare, ended up bypassing imob until I culd get a new one, they were like rockining horse at the time, ran wire from fuel pump to + on battery to bypass. Stupid place to put them at side of heater vent under dash was ok if parked on a hill all the time as could over come unit by bump start

You can't bypass a P38 immobiliser - they are wired into everything. EVERYTHING. It's frightening.

 

[llamedos]

You can't bypass a P38 immobiliser - they are wired into everything. EVERYTHING. It's frightening.

 

[smcapstick]

It's either the 3R 1L 1R 2L 5R[?] door lock code, ignition on and stand on the brake for 15 seconds or press the fob button at the same time as something else - there are loads of recoding things and you need to know them ALL. Been years since mine went, memory is fuzzy. I'll dig around in the filing cabinet.

 

[Paddington]

Had a similar problem with a Td5 Discovery the other week, tried trickle charging and then jump starting the car but wouldn't turn over. After a few minutes the central locking packed up, tried the spare key fob but no go.
Eventually disconnected the battery put it on boost for ten minutes, then connected it and jump started the car. The alarm was going off all this time! Thought either the starter had jammed or the battery was kaput but had done 50 miles a couple of days before.

 

[Simon Chiles]

Hi, my sister's X Reg Range Rover had a flat battery for a week or so and now it won't start. It seems the immobiliser won't let it start and I wondered if this is normal behaviour, and whether there is any procedure that needs to be carried out to get it started again. Her lad put new batteries in the keyfob in case that was the problem but no joy! Any advice would be most welcome!

I'm amazed that she hasn't come across this problem before now! The key can loose it's way with the BeCM for any no. of reasons, changing the battery in the key fob is one of them ( unless you can do it in under 60 seconds), disconnecting the battery or even interferance from a mobile phone. You need to know the EKA code ( I know mine off by heart) , if the code is 1234 then you need to lock the car by turning the key in the lock anticlockwise (even if it's already locked) and the hazard warning lights might flash just once, it might even bleep the horn, then turn the key once clockwise, twice anticlockwise, three times clockwise then four times anticlockwise. Finally turn the key clockwise to unlock the door. If at this point you don't hear all the doors unlock by the central locking DO NOT open the door otherwise you will have to wait about 1/2 an hour before you can try again and the engine will be immobilised. If all the doors unlock by the central locking then the key should have found it's way again and you can start the engine. Sometimes locking and unlocking with the fob several times helps and sometimes just putting the key in the ignition and starting the engine does the trick. I would advise your sister to learn this proceedure and the code as she will never know when she might need it.

 

[smcapstick]

I'm amazed that she hasn't come across this problem before now! The key can loose it's way with the BeCM for any no. of reasons, changing the battery in the key fob is one of them ( unless you can do it in under 60 seconds), disconnecting the battery or even interferance from a mobile phone. You need to know the EKA code ( I know mine off by heart) , if the code is 1234 then you need to lock the car by turning the key in the lock anticlockwise (even if it's already locked) and the hazard warning lights might flash just once, it might even bleep the horn, then turn the key once clockwise, twice anticlockwise, three times clockwise then four times anticlockwise. Finally turn the key clockwise to unlock the door. If at this point you don't hear all the doors unlock by the central locking DO NOT open the door otherwise you will have to wait about 1/2 an hour before you can try again and the engine will be immobilised. If all the doors unlock by the central locking then the key should have found it's way again and you can start the engine. Sometimes locking and unlocking with the fob several times helps and sometimes just putting the key in the ignition and starting the engine does the trick. I would advise your sister to learn this proceedure and the code as she will never know when she might need it.

That's the fella! God, I don't miss ours... although in the brief moment when everything worked it was DEVINE.

 

[Drillman]

I always keep the eka and the destruction manual in the disco for this reason. I can always get in with the key to get the sequence for disabling the immobiliser.

 

[Simon Chiles]

I always keep the eka and the destruction manual in the disco for this reason. I can always get in with the key to get the sequence for disabling the immobiliser.

....but if you open the door with the key without entering the EKA code it can think you're trying to steal it ( as though anybody would really bother ) and it might trigger the alarm or worse still not allow you to enter the code for another 1/2 hour. I found out that if the EKA code hadn't been accepted ( if when you unlock the door with the key all the doors don't unlock with the central locking) then provided you don't open the door you can re-enter the EKA code without having to wait.

 

[Telephone1]

Hi, my sister's X Reg Range Rover had a flat battery for a week or so and now it won't start. It seems the immobiliser won't let it start and I wondered if this is normal behaviour, and whether there is any procedure that needs to be carried out to get it started again. Her lad put new batteries in the keyfob in case that was the problem but no joy! Any advice would be most welcome!