Ransome plough

madmatt

Member
Many of you will remember that about 3 years ago i started a post about a match plough to go behind my Tef 20, well i now have a slightly better understanding as to what i need to do after studying all the old topics on here and have a decentish budget the plan is to try and get something put together over the summer ready to start practising and tweaking the construction next season.

After all the reading i have come to the conclusion 183 boards are the way forward so I will be on the look out for a good pair of those,

Am i right in my understanding that 183's will swap directly on to a frame that's been running 165's i am sure i read somewhere they did?

I will post a few pictures as and when things progress but it will be slow and steady progress.
 

wuddy

Member
Location
Scottish Borders
Many of you will remember that about 3 years ago i started a post about a match plough to go behind my Tef 20, well i now have a slightly better understanding as to what i need to do after studying all the old topics on here and have a decentish budget the plan is to try and get something put together over the summer ready to start practising and tweaking the construction next season.

After all the reading i have come to the conclusion 183 boards are the way forward so I will be on the look out for a good pair of those,

Am i right in my understanding that 183's will swap directly on to a frame that's been running 165's i am sure i read somewhere they did?

I will post a few pictures as and when things progress but it will be slow and steady progress.
The 183’s and 165’s use the same frog but the stays up the back of the mouldboards are different.
 

wuddy

Member
Location
Scottish Borders
You learn something everyday.
From memory if you fit the stay to the board it doesn’t fit to the bracket at the front. Or if fitted to bracket and bolt through middle hole the rear hole won’t line up if I remember it was almost 2 inches out. Again iirc the holes are lower on a 165 and if you try to fit a 183 it will be to low and plough will try to ride on the boards.
 

Pennine Ploughing

Member
Mixed Farmer
yes the stay on a 165 has a slight curve at the front,
where as the 183 is like a hockey stick,

they wont fit as @wuddy says, and the board will not sit right, and its a faff to alter them to get them close,
some will say that 165 will plough better in grass than 183 boards, this is because the stay is lower on the 165 and holds the board better against the thrust of the soil, often thought a 165 board with a couple of inch welded on the top to make it like a 183, would plough better in stubble with the stay being lower,
on the same point a 165 will manage very well ploughing only at 10", the 183 was for ploughing at 12", as its the width of the furrow that sits on the boards depth, and unless its crumbly soil or badly set discs skims it will not put it over the back,
 

madmatt

Member
yes the stay on a 165 has a slight curve at the front,
where as the 183 is like a hockey stick,

they wont fit as @wuddy says, and the board will not sit right, and its a faff to alter them to get them close,
some will say that 165 will plough better in grass than 183 boards, this is because the stay is lower on the 165 and holds the board better against the thrust of the soil, often thought a 165 board with a couple of inch welded on the top to make it like a 183, would plough better in stubble with the stay being lower,
on the same point a 165 will manage very well ploughing only at 10", the 183 was for ploughing at 12", as its the width of the furrow that sits on the boards depth, and unless its crumbly soil or badly set discs skims it will not put it over the back,

Thanks all for the replies as educational as ever.

Interesting comments you make about 165 ploughing at 10" i had been offered a plough on 165 boards and i hadn't totally discounted it but this has made me more interested again. I know 183 is deemed the best but if a 165 ploughing 10" makes a tidy job that may suffice for a year or two while i learn abit more and keep eyes and ears open for a pair of 183.
 

Pennine Ploughing

Member
Mixed Farmer
1. Save you’re money
2. Decide what you want
3. Buy once, buy right.


You could spend a fair few £££ on a plough with 165s, only to then have to shell out more if u decide you want 183s.You will then possibly struggle to sell the 165s as they aren’t as desireable.
I agree, but if its a TS 59 and he spends money on it, and runs on YL 165 for a year or 2. then he would not need to change the plough, just the boards and stays, all money spent on landslides, discs and skims, along with the frame, will still be there
 

madmatt

Member
I agree, but if its a TS 59 and he spends money on it, and runs on YL 165 for a year or 2. then he would not need to change the plough, just the boards and stays, all money spent on landslides, discs and skims, along with the frame, will still be there

That was my thinking, i had been offered a 59 with 165's that hasn't been messed about with so its a blank canvas as far as mods are concerned it is also not daft money. So though process was start sorting the frame and heqd stock if a pair of 183's crop up i can fit them but if not fit the 165's till some do crop up. From what i am hearing unmessed with ts59 with 183 boards are getting scarce. And unless it came from some one with a proven track record of quality modifications i wouldn't want to buy a already modified plough besides which part of me wants a go at the engineering side of it.
 

madmatt

Member
Just an update to this thread after many more months of spending on other things and being busy with family stuff, i have finally bought a ts59.

I wasn't actually looking deliberately but one cropped up unmessed with on genuine kristeel 183's with full set of discs and skims and a land wheel. Its a 3 furrow and cost me not a lot in ransome terms. The only bit that is missing is the bit from the land wheel shaft to the handle so i will have to source one of those.

I have spent the last few evenings trawling back on here looking at all the mod threads trying to work out what would be good todo its going to be a longterm project i aim to have it in the ground aug/sept19 i have come to the conclusion that the following would be a good idea

Obviously remove the third furrow
Move the front leg to outside of the frame
Move the rear leg inside frame Pack the rear leg to 10"
Alter the wheel to make it drop lower and also slide out
Then the big one making it easier to slide over the cross shaft.
 

wuddy

Member
Location
Scottish Borders
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I cut the back of the frame on my 59 as there isn’t much room to get the back leg spaced! I actually have my legs set about 9 3/4” to have the plough cutting 10”
 

madmatt

Member
Thanks for the pictures very interesting i am unsure which frame to use yet as i have the third furrow frame as well and i am sure i have read on here of people using the third furrow frame and cuting that down.
 

Mydexta

Member
Location
Dundee/angus
There are people who make match ploughs using the 3rd furrow frame, as it’s narrower.
It could be worth doing that and building from Scratch the exact plough you want, rather than modifying a 59

Definitely don’t throw it out
 

madmatt

Member
There are people who make match ploughs using the 3rd furrow frame, as it’s narrower.
It could be worth doing that and building from Scratch the exact plough you want, rather than modifying a 59

Definitely don’t throw it out

No not throwing anything out yet, i have 3 furrow 59 that is complete so i have a number of options.

I think the third furrow frame is narrower anyway not 100% sure though

I came to that conclusion just eyeing them up today but haven't put a tape across them yet.
 

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
There are people who make match ploughs using the 3rd furrow frame, as it’s narrower.
It could be worth doing that and building from Scratch the exact plough you want, rather than modifying a 59

Definitely don’t throw it out
Fourth furrow frame is better still but third furrow with another piece of frame bolted to the right side as a spacer amounts to the same but is tighter in the back end.
 

madmatt

Member
Fourth furrow frame is better still but third furrow with another piece of frame bolted to the right side as a spacer amounts to the same but is tighter in the back end.

Thanks for the info Bob, just been reading a long thread petetheploughman started a few years ago, and had come to the conclusion that the 3rd furrow frame was the one to use and re drill it to move front leg forward. The only bit concerning me is the cutting and angling the bit for the front disc.
 

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