wuddy
Member
- Location
- Scottish Borders
Currently rebuilding a rsld for match ploughing. Have noticed quite a few have extended the axel for the land wheel. Is it necessary and has anyone got any pictures of how they have done it.
Should be remembering it by the end of the spring season!Just make sure you make a good job of cleaning all the grease off and round about the existing and make sure to clamp both parts to be welded firmly into a length of sturdy angle such as 100x100x10 before tacking up.......then all you need to do is mind your shins on the bit you made sticking out.
1&3/4" EN8 round bar (44.45 diameter) is good to get and readily available.
Just make sure you make a good job of cleaning all the grease off and round about the existing and make sure to clamp both parts to be welded firmly into a length of sturdy angle such as 100x100x10 before tacking up.......then all you need to do is mind your shins on the bit you made sticking out.
1&3/4" EN8 round bar (44.45 diameter) is good to get and readily available.
Yes! My depth wheel cross shaft just sticks out nicely at nut height, perfect for when I adjust the top link!Should be remembering it by the end of the spring season!
David, it all depends on your tractor and plough settings, if ploughing a 10" furrows, thats 20", then the wheel is about 12" off the frame,So next question is how far do I need to be able to move it? 8” enough
Ye hoping on 10” think there is 41” between the wheels at 52” centres. Not going to have much time to do anything once I get it out so going to try and do as much as possible now!David, it all depends on your tractor and plough settings, if ploughing a 10" furrows, thats 20", then the wheel is about 12" off the frame,
8" would be the bear minimum if tractor wheels are @ 40" between the tyres,
I would make it 10" at the shortest, and I would 12" on to the length it is now, remember if to loong it easy to cut some off, but harder to make it an inch or so longer
David, it all depends on your tractor and plough settings, if ploughing a 10" furrows, thats 20", then the wheel is about 12" off the frame,
8" would be the bear minimum if tractor wheels are @ 40" between the tyres,
I would make it 10" at the shortest, and I would 12" on to the length it is now, remember if to loong it easy to cut some off, but harder to make it an inch or so longer
The 8” was just a random guess I really didn’t have any idea hence why I asked on hereBit like my mantra 'better off looking at it than looking for it'
12" would make more sense. It's academic but as long as it runs in the track of the tractor wheel what does it matter. Takes just as much doing to put 12" on as it does to put 8!
Next stupid question, how is the wheel held on? Expected to find something behind the cap but nothing there!It needs to be in the tractor wheel mark, not running right on the edge, as I said if to long you can cut a bit off,
I made a sleeve for mine, out of a bit of pipe tack welded to the collar, and at the outer end a domed cap,
you only bang your shins a couple of times, then you soon remember
Ring with a pin through it, sandwiched between the wheel and trip drum.Next stupid question, how is the wheel held on? Expected to find something behind the cap but nothing there!
Didn’t really have time to study it do you have to unbolt wheel from trip hub to access the pin?Ring with a pin through it, sandwiched between the wheel and trip drum.
Thanks thought it might have been a two min job an was going to take it off an take it to work today.yes take out the 5 bolts, and wheel off, take pin out if collar and slide it off
I presume you do away with the pin and use clamps to hold the wheel in position? Has anyone got any pictures of there’s?It needs to be in the tractor wheel mark, not running right on the edge, as I said if to long you can cut a bit off,
I made a sleeve for mine, out of a bit of pipe tack welded to the collar, and at the outer end a domed cap,
you only bang your shins a couple of times, then you soon remember