Ransomes rsld land wheel shaft!

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
HE is listening! This thread started with land-wheels then drifted into furrow-wheels by mistake. Now it gets personal as if Darth Vader was my father! A depth wheel has just one function and if you choose to put it outside the frame then you must jack it out further for the last run to be guided at a distance on the fluffy stuff you just turned over. Yet, on that last run, you still have some virgin ground as a datum point and a uniform sole furrow to build. Convention shouldn't apply to conventional ploughing.
This is a trailed plough we are talking about, so really has three "depth" wheels! One one the land, one in the furrow and one doing a bit behind. The one on the land, has to be moved out in order to stop it lifting the last couple of furrows on the wheel side of the finish, it is spaced to follow the tractor wheel.Most methods of achieving this involve disconnecting the self lift for this run, so plough is wound out on the handle at the end. Some people make a sleeve with a flange at each end, this is placed between the wheel and lift drum, and bolted to both. This retains the self lift.
When did you see your father!
 

rick_vandal

Member
Location
Soft South
HE is listening! This thread started with land-wheels then drifted into furrow-wheels by mistake. Now it gets personal as if Darth Vader was my father! A depth wheel has just one function and if you choose to put it outside the frame then you must jack it out further for the last run to be guided at a distance on the fluffy stuff you just turned over. Yet, on that last run, you still have some virgin ground as a datum point and a uniform sole furrow to build. Convention shouldn't apply to conventional ploughing.
 

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Howard150

Member
Location
Yorkshire
FF’sSake sort your head out Rick. This thread relates to trailer ploughs, not modern conventional and how to make a finish bent, contour ploughing, maps or sections of where your alleged father might well be buried or even applied maths. None of which will make a better ploughman.

Good ploughing is by and large passed down. Like it or not if you visit ploughing matches to observe and learn then the skill is being passed down. To work it out yourself takes a lifetime. Apart from the husbandry there is a wealth of engineering skill required. It is made far far easier by pages like these where by and large the required information is freely exchanged. Please stop abusing it.

It is hardly the place for some of Rik’s sacrilege. We all need a laugh sometimes but there is a place.
Better to put it on the banter thread Rik.
 

rick_vandal

Member
Location
Soft South
This thread is for RSLD land wheels. This is a common interest for the conventional boys, then someone hijacked the discussion to furrow wheels and before you know, we talk of castor wheels too!
Let it be known that every mounted ploughman should try a trailer plough once in his life to see how the tractor took the place of the horse, how a one point hitch became a 3 point hitch for the worse in the name of progress
 

wuddy

Member
Location
Scottish Borders
This thread is for RSLD land wheels. This is a common interest for the conventional boys, then someone hijacked the discussion to furrow wheels and before you know, we talk of castor wheels too!
Let it be known that every mounted ploughman should try a trailer plough once in his life to see how the tractor took the place of the horse, how a one point hitch became a 3 point hitch for the worse in the name of progress
Yes I started the thread to get some advice on a land wheel. Once I got a bit more done to the plough I needed some more advice about other parts of the plough and didn’t think there was a need to start another thread. Dad has ploughed trailing for 25-30 years have used his many times when we have been out practicing I have also done a few matches over the years. I have had this plough about 8 years and with the numbers falling in the trailing class with us I thought I would give it a proper go to keep the class alive
 

wuddy

Member
Location
Scottish Borders
Following on from this I am nearly ready for a field trial. Question for the people using these do you try and have drawbar pulling level or slightly downhill towards tractor when in work? My other question is how do you work out which holes you should be in where drawbar mounts to plough or is it just trial and error until drawbar is pulling straight?
 

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
Hitch should run along a line parallel to one drawn between the rear share point and the tractor front axle. Drawbar( the bit with the lever on) should be attached between the frames on a two furrow and to the left of the land beam on a three, and should run parallel to the furrow wall, the final bars being attached as far to the right as poss (Viewed from behind plough) to the cross(hake?) plate, using the most convenient hole at the lever end.When correct, you should be able to move the lever through its full range of travel with little effort, with the plough in work. If this cant be achieved then something is bent, not unusual as most of these ploughs were used to finish out headlands, or break up rough land when hyd ploughs came in.
 

wuddy

Member
Location
Scottish Borders
Hitch should run along a line parallel to one drawn between the rear share point and the tractor front axle. Drawbar( the bit with the lever on) should be attached between the frames on a two furrow and to the left of the land beam on a three, and should run parallel to the furrow wall, the final bars being attached as far to the right as poss (Viewed from behind plough) to the cross(hake?) plate, using the most convenient hole at the lever end.When correct, you should be able to move the lever through its full range of travel with little effort, with the plough in work. If this cant be achieved then something is bent, not unusual as most of these ploughs were used to finish out headlands, or break up rough land when hyd ploughs came in.
Thanks think I understand most of that will pop a picture up once I have a chance to put drawbar on and see what you think.
 

Howard150

Member
Location
Yorkshire
Goes without saying that the drawbar on the tractor needs a series of holes from side to side or infinitely adjustable. Just working on mine at the minute - torn between a gearbox and another buck lever working across ways.

Another good thing to do is put a quadrant on the buck lever which can be marked for centre and graduated accordingly.

Yet another god thing to do is change the thread on the levelling screw to an acme thread same as the land levelling screw and put a thrust bearing in after the bush nearest the thread. Have the bar the lathe the tools to do it but not the time. Land levelling depth screw is 1”. Furrow levelling screw is 7/8 or 22mm in modern currency.
 
Last edited:

Pennine Ploughing

Member
Mixed Farmer
Goes without saying that the drawbar on the tractor needs a series of holes from side to side or infinitely adjustable. Just working on mine at the minute - torn between a gearbox and another buck lever working across ways.

Another good thing to do is put a quadrant on the buck lever which can be marked for centre and graduated accordingly.

Yet another god thing to do is change the thread on the levelling screw to an acme thread same as the land levelling screw and put a thrust bearing in after the bush nearest the thread. Have the bar the lathe the tools to do it but not the time. Land levelling depth screw is 1”. Furrow levelling screw is 7/8 or 22mm in modern currency.
David I would go with buck lever working cross ways, gear box is better for level land, but if you happen to be on a slope, then getting in at the ends is better with a quick pull on lever, than turning a gearbox for ever
 

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
Goes without saying that the drawbar on the tractor needs a series of holes from side to side or infinitely adjustable. Just working on mine at the minute - torn between a gearbox and another buck lever working across ways.

Another good thing to do is put a quadrant on the buck lever which can be marked for centre and graduated accordingly.

Yet another god thing to do is change the thread on the levelling screw to an acme thread same as the land levelling screw and put a thrust bearing in after the bush nearest the thread. Have the bar the lathe the tools to do it but not the time. Land levelling depth screw is 1”. Furrow levelling screw is 7/8 or 22mm in modern currency.
Thrust bearing almost an essential! But, one important thing.If the nut is not in position on the end of the levelling screw, the screw MUST be turned three full turns deep before tripping the plough out when ploughing the split, or at any time the front furrow is at min depth. Failure to do this will result in the furrow wheel stop contacting the beam before the lift rack has disengaged, destroying either the rack or the link at the bottom end of the levelling shaft. Moving the stop in to avoid this is not a good idea as the wheel can then fold underneath the plough, tying all the mechanism in a knot!
 

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
Thanks think I understand most of that will pop a picture up once I have a chance to put drawbar on and see what you think.
Correcting another senior moment, the cosp handle should be vertical when the plough is running tight to the furrow wall on level ground, it will need adjusting when crossing slopes. Hitch point on tractor should be chosen to achieve this.
 

Pennine Ploughing

Member
Mixed Farmer
Hello David, yes it looks as though its coming on there. and so far not a bad job,

it may be the camera angle of the pictures, but the front beam looks out a line
from the front the front beam looks to be leaning to the ploughing at the top, and the width adjuster thread looks bent down at the right hand side, as said may be the camera,
also the middle pic, if you eye the 2 beams together,the front beam looks to dip just before the body leg, they tend to stretch the beam at the bottom of the center furrow width adjusting threaded bar,
eye the beam up and compare it with the back beam behind it, I had to enlarge the picture to see this, again it could be the camera,

Draw bar is about right where you have it, I welded 2 eyes behind the hake bar to fit the plough, this gives full movement of draw bar, not just either side of back furrow beam, although i do run it where you have it,

check the beam, apart from that looks good
 

wuddy

Member
Location
Scottish Borders
Hello David, yes it looks as though its coming on there. and so far not a bad job,

it may be the camera angle of the pictures, but the front beam looks out a line
from the front the front beam looks to be leaning to the ploughing at the top, and the width adjuster thread looks bent down at the right hand side, as said may be the camera,
also the middle pic, if you eye the 2 beams together,the front beam looks to dip just before the body leg, they tend to stretch the beam at the bottom of the center furrow width adjusting threaded bar,
eye the beam up and compare it with the back beam behind it, I had to enlarge the picture to see this, again it could be the camera,

Draw bar is about right where you have it, I welded 2 eyes behind the hake bar to fit the plough, this gives full movement of draw bar, not just either side of back furrow beam, although i do run it where you have it,

check the beam, apart from that looks good
Cheers John. Think it is the camera! Have had the plough on my new workshop floor (laser levelled and polished very posh) with the plough sitting level both ways and measured at numerous point from floor to beam all seems to be pretty good give or take a mm here and there! Just hoping to get a shot with it Before we get to busy with spring work.
 

Howard150

Member
Location
Yorkshire
Cheers John. Think it is the camera! Have had the plough on my new workshop floor (laser levelled and polished very posh) with the plough sitting level both ways and measured at numerous point from floor to beam all seems to be pretty good give or take a mm here and there! Just hoping to get a shot with it Before we get to busy with spring work.

Getting there David. Not much happening with mine right now and not much prospect in the near future. Not much prospect of any spring work in this area either with all these beasts and mini beasts. Would be a good thing for a lot of the car drivers round here to have their cars taken off them on the first of December and get them back on the first of April.
Is that a marker you have on the drawbar? Have all the bits to put a disc on similar to a high cut plough for mine. Can’t get my head round running with the wheel tight to the furrow wall. Ok for running a bit off but difficult for putting a bit on.
Have all the raw materials to make the levelling screw into acme thread - even got a brand new 22mm pilot bored uj for £15. Local farm machinery dealer wanted £62 for just one Walterscheid yoke.
Looks as though you are missing the diagonal stay bar that goes across over the top of the beams just in front of the front mouldboard stay. Have a square bar for mine which I intend to put a weight carrier on and extend out to land beyond the back body to incorporate a second wheel for finishing. Have the wheel and cast boss.
Managed to get the landsides machined and fabricated. Still unsure what to do with the pressed wheel but do not relish the open side to it. Have another wheel which I can cut the centre out of but it’s finding an easy way to put them together without making something ungainly.
Just toying with putting brackets on the frame to slip a 9 hole drawbar through so that I can pick it up on the 3 point linkage. Just getting the profiles cut and folded ready for a modified weight frame for the front of the tractor.
All good fun but no spare time. Just waiting to go into hospital which won’t help the cause either but then that’s a problem for another day.
 

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