Ransomes Ts59 YL183

Mikeysuds

Member
Location
Caithness
Hello Gents

I've currently got a ts59 with yl183's have had a bit off difficulty getting it working correctly but getting there now. Was wondering if you could tell me how much push any off yous are running on the boards? as a measurement square from the end of the landside to the board?

I've got the plough leaving a nice job but getting penalised heavily at matches for firmness and packing ? is this common for yL183's in light ground ? do the simply suit heavier ground ?

Any advice much appreciated

Cheers Michael
 

Howard150

Member
Location
Yorkshire
Hello Gents

I've currently got a ts59 with yl183's have had a bit off difficulty getting it working correctly but getting there now. Was wondering if you could tell me how much push any off yous are running on the boards? as a measurement square from the end of the landside to the board?

I've got the plough leaving a nice job but getting penalised heavily at matches for firmness and packing ? is this common for yL183's in light ground ? do the simply suit heavier ground ?

Any advice much appreciated

Cheers Michael

Generally speaking then Ransomes boards need 1 or 2 flats of pressure on the board adjuster from being at rest. Obviously this does not apply to the original mounting, but the same value can be obtained. Some people even slip washers in.

Packing is a function of push, pitch, depth and speed. Don’t forget that if you pull the board back not only does it not push the furrow as far - it also lessens the angle in relation to vertical which the board works at. Similarly the further you push a board out then the greater the angle which in turn leads to the top of the board at the back exerting more pressure on the furrow slice.

Probably better without tailpieces. YL’s and RWM’s will in some soils tend to pull the work apart if too much pressure is put on the board.

Hope this helps.
 

Mikeysuds

Member
Location
Caithness
They are a difficult board to dictate what is at rest as only the single mounting point at the front and then bar on the back off the board is slotted ?

I found it is performing better with less push on the board and almost pulling the rear of the board back as it was pushing the slice up the previous furr does that make sense ?

Cheers
 

Mikeysuds

Member
Location
Caithness
EB79D5B4-D82D-400A-8D35-3C264E58F862.jpeg
 

Mikeysuds

Member
Location
Caithness
That was Saturday’s efforts Finnished 4th in class but lost lots of points on firmness and packing as mentioned earlier. Not much definition of furrow either ?
 

Howard150

Member
Location
Yorkshire
That was Saturday’s efforts Finnished 4th in class but lost lots of points on firmness and packing as mentioned earlier. Not much definition of furrow either ?

You can exert too much pressure in the middle of the board. This in turn lessens the effect at the back. Bolt it up with the single bolt then fit the rest to it.

Don’t forget that there are some soils that do not readily compact - even more so when dry. At times like these firmness is usually low across the score sheet. Sometimes a bit of speed helps.

As for pushing up the back of the last one then that is more to do with boards being out of parallel.
 

Mydexta

Member
Location
Dundee/angus
Firmness can also be improved by skimmer position and disc depth, if either are to deep, it will burst more than needed, then you have to make that all form again

Shares can also contribute to lack of firmness
 

Mikeysuds

Member
Location
Caithness
Thanks have any of you experimented with disc angle ? or run them plum with plough leg ? lean them into the land or into the furrow at the top ? What if any majour effect does this have ?

cheers
 

Howard150

Member
Location
Yorkshire
Thanks have any of you experimented with disc angle ? or run them plum with plough leg ? lean them into the land or into the furrow at the top ? What if any majour effect does this have ?

cheers

A little undercut will help put the crown together where the ground cuts out. Friable soft stuff and sand it will not make any difference. I run mine slightly undercutting.
Ransomes good ploughing says avoid overcut at all costs due to a significant increase in bearing wear. Avoid changing the setting midway through a match as it makes a massive difference where the disc runs side for side.
If you use Kverneland discs then you have no option but to run them plumb.
Some of the old horse ploughmen used to run a small angled disc as well as the knife coulter to pare the corner off in grass.
 

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
They are a difficult board to dictate what is at rest as only the single mounting point at the front and then bar on the back off the board is slotted ?

I found it is performing better with less push on the board and almost pulling the rear of the board back as it was pushing the slice up the previous furr does that make sense ?

Cheers
As a general rule I run my YLs at 11" from the outside end to the rear landside to the bottom of the board at right angles opposite. I used to run 10.5" but found this was not enough pressure. The front board is parallel or if anything 5mm further out. Do you like the mixed metric/imperial measurements? A sign of a truly adaptable European.:D
 

Mikeysuds

Member
Location
Caithness
A little undercut will help put the crown together where the ground cuts out. Friable soft stuff and sand it will not make any difference. I run mine slightly undercutting.
Ransomes good ploughing says avoid overcut at all costs due to a significant increase in bearing wear. Avoid changing the setting midway through a match as it makes a massive difference where the disc runs side for side.
If you use Kverneland discs then you have no option but to run them plumb.
Some of the old horse ploughmen used to run a small angled disc as well as the knife coulter to pare the corner off in grass.

As a general rule I run my YLs at 11" from the outside end to the rear landside to the bottom of the board at right angles opposite. I used to run 10.5" but found this was not enough pressure. The front board is parallel or if anything 5mm further out. Do you like the mixed metric/imperial measurements? A sign of a truly adaptable European.:D

Cheers guys I currently run the original 16'' discs on the ransomes Hub's with 2 notches from plum on the undercutting side with KV skimmers.

I'm currently siting at 11'' from the landside square out.

Haha I have to laugh I often get machining and fabrication jobs from farmers and it seams to be a mixture off imperial and metric I think its just whichever lands closest on the tape measure is the easiest lol.

One final thing to pick the brains off you whizz kids if you don't mind is that I'm currently using 44 socks but have cut the wing down ill upload a pic's tomorrow I thought it was cutting too much and losing the hinge ? does this sound ok or what do you boys find best for match work ?
 

Howard150

Member
Location
Yorkshire
Cheers guys I currently run the original 16'' discs on the ransomes Hub's with 2 notches from plum on the undercutting side with KV skimmers.

I'm currently siting at 11'' from the landside square out.

Haha I have to laugh I often get machining and fabrication jobs from farmers and it seams to be a mixture off imperial and metric I think its just whichever lands closest on the tape measure is the easiest lol.

One final thing to pick the brains off you whizz kids if you don't mind is that I'm currently using 44 socks but have cut the wing down ill upload a pic's tomorrow I thought it was cutting too much and losing the hinge ? does this sound ok or what do you boys find best for match work ?

Always work in millimetres ........ at work - note mm - not centimetres or metres - whatever the distance.
Always work in thous when machining.
Always plough in inches - would be sacrilege to plough in anything other - especially when working out the number of green furrows as you start casting to your neighbour, turning left on the headland. Never ever forget. This is where your finish starts. Leave the odd bit here where it can’t be judged.

Be careful with the hinge. Easy to try and leave too much which ends up (on stiffer ground) pulling it up from underneath. Get some unadulterated 44’s and get them bright. Put one on the front body and a cut down one on the rear. Then do the same the other way round. See which you like best.

Word of warning if your boards are worn off on the underside. Attempting to leave too big a hinge will end up cutting a trench at the furrow wall side of the furrow bottom with a step up to where the board breaks it off. This in itself means that the furrow is self destructing on its way along the board. Counter productive when you are trying for whole work with a shine. Little or no alternative but to build the board back up again.
 
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Mikeysuds

Member
Location
Caithness
Hi Gents

Had a play about with Disc Angle,Disc Height and Skimmer location.

Massive difference with the best work I've ever done with the plough on Saturday at Forss Young Farmers Open ploughing Match. Won the Young Farmers Vintage class and the overall Vintage on the field.

Just shows how very little adjustments can make a huge difference to a number off factors. Thanks for all the different views I feel hearing others opinions gives you ideas off what to try if you don't ever change something your never going to find a better way :)

Cheers Michael
 

Mikeysuds

Member
Location
Caithness
Hahah not a secret at all. Find that the main thing that holds youngsters back in plough is the lack off freedom of information. I definitely feel that if it helps someone don't hold it back.

The Main thing I found was I have very long skimmer arms and ran the skimmer a lot further forward and cutting the bear minimum was the best combination for me with the type of ground we have up here hope this helps :) meant the ground was getting skimmed sooner before it was being lifted with the sock.

Michael
 

Ray996

Member
Location
North Scotland
Hi Gents

Had a play about with Disc Angle,Disc Height and Skimmer location.

Massive difference with the best work I've ever done with the plough on Saturday at Forss Young Farmers Open ploughing Match. Won the Young Farmers Vintage class and the overall Vintage on the field.

Just shows how very little adjustments can make a huge difference to a number off factors. Thanks for all the different views I feel hearing others opinions gives you ideas off what to try if you don't ever change something your never going to find a better way :)

Cheers Michael
Is that the match a lot of young ladies scooped up the silverware ?
 

Mikeysuds

Member
Location
Caithness
Yeah Sure is ! We started the match about 7 years ago to try and encourage Young farmers into match ploughing in Caithness ! Its done wonders for the Caithness Ploughing scene with about 60% off the matches being made up of under 30's now. We had 5 ladies ploughing all of which were novices and we help them throughout the day to encourage them and keep them right while ploughing ourselves we always have one of us following them between ploughing our own plot. :)
 

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