Resistant Ryegrass

chris4000

Member
We have a patch of Ryegrass on one side of a field sprayed it for 2 years in wheat now in Rape still can't kill it,nothing has worked,tried broadway star ,axial and many others,Agronomist says it's not Resistant to sprays.
 

Farmer Roy

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
NSW, Newstralya
We have a patch of Ryegrass on one side of a field sprayed it for 2 years in wheat now in Rape still can't kill it,nothing has worked,tried broadway star ,axial and many others,Agronomist says it's not Resistant to sprays.

agronomist says it is NOT resistant to sprays ?

id get another agro

with up to 30 yrs history of zero till, resistant ryegrass is one of the biggest challenges we face

has developed resistance in a wide range of chemical types, especially Group A & the dims & fops

apparently 20 applications of glyphosate & you will get resistant ryegrass

we use many & varied techniques to get on top of it. Different chemical mixes, crop rotations, cultural practices, seed collection, etc etc

just google it, huge amount of work & research in Australia about it

how big a patch ? might we worth digging it out by hand, or mowing it before seed set ? You certainly don't want it to spread - think black grass . . .
 

Badshot

Member
Location
Kent
We have a patch of Ryegrass on one side of a field sprayed it for 2 years in wheat now in Rape still can't kill it,nothing has worked,tried broadway star ,axial and many others,Agronomist says it's not Resistant to sprays.
If it's not resistant, why is it there?
Just a case of killing what was in the wheat, but there's a big seed bank in the soil?
Kerb, crawler in the rape. If it's there later on roundup.
Or if it's only small area, just roundup it and take the hit..
Ploughing ryegrass seed down works well, but leave it under for several years before ploughing again.
 

BenB

Member
BASE UK Member
Location
Wiltshire
Hideous, hideous, hideous stuff. Makes blackgrass look like a walk in the park.

Longer germination period and germinates from depth. Stephen Moss identified resistant RG on my fathers farm in the 80s. We saw Stephen at Cereals a couple of years ago, he didn’t have much new info to help!

As others said above, be absolutely anal about crop hygiene. Spray the patch off, rogue it, whatever it takes because it gets bad very quickly.
 

Farmer Roy

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
NSW, Newstralya
err, please don't rely on Roundup to control the ryegrass

over in the west, it was dims & fops that were the first to get resistance to, but over here in the east it was & still is Roundup / glyphosate that is the biggest issue. Every time you spray, you are selecting out the resistant individuals, thereby increasing their percentage next time. If you are going to use glypho on ryegrass you suspect is resistant, come back 5 - 7 days with a " double knock " application of Gramoxone . . .

best thing is plough it out before it sets seed
 

Farmer Roy

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
NSW, Newstralya
apologies, I copied this from someone else in another forum, but it highlights what I just said

" West OZ was one of the first places to start getting resistant weeds. Just about everyone here now knows if you dont practice IWM and IPM you will fail.
Rotation of method, products and crops has to be at the very top of your priorities if you want to succeed in the long term.
When we hear of people in the US following RReady beans with RR corn etc adnausium we just shake our heads. "
 

Farmer Roy

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
NSW, Newstralya
Ploughing ryegrass seed down works well, but leave it under for several years before ploughing again.

in WA I have heard of trials using moulghboard ploughs ( they had to import one especially, we just don't use them here ) to bury the ryegrass seed at a depth it wouldn't germinate from, with some success. However, I did hear of one case where the grower was that pleased with the results achieved, that he did it again a few years later. Only to bring all those buried seeds back to the surface again . . . :banghead:
 
Last edited:

Badshot

Member
Location
Kent
in WA I have heard of trials using moulghboard ploughs ( they had to import one especially, we just don't use them here ) to bury the ryegrass seed at a depth it wouldn't germinate from, with some success. However, I did here of one case where the grower was that pleased with the results achieved, that he did it again a few years later. Only to bring all those buried seeds back to the surface again . . . :banghead:
Yeh, needs leaving down for a while, ryegrass seed does die left under ground. It's not quite so robust as blackgrass seed.
It's definitely not one to ignore, needs keeping on top of.
 

Farmer Roy

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
NSW, Newstralya
I think 7 years they can be viable ?

ps IWM Integrated Weed Management
IPM Integrated Pest Management

a more holistic approach than just reaching for the next chemical drum . . .
 

Brisel

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Midlands
We have a patch of Ryegrass on one side of a field sprayed it for 2 years in wheat now in Rape still can't kill it,nothing has worked,tried broadway star ,axial and many others,Agronomist says it's not Resistant to sprays.

A lot of spray failures are blamed on resistance when in fact it is down to inappropriate spraying practices - wrong dose, timing, lack of adjuvant, water quality, windy, rain after application etc. The best way to identify resistance is to take seed from the plants that escape the herbicide and get it tested by ADAS. http://www.adas.uk/Service/herbicide-resistance-testing

As above, ryegrass is an awful weed to have in arable land. It germinates when it feels like it, can come from depth and at low levels can not attract much attention until it has become a bigger problem. I have it in a few fields and have had to hit it hard with changing the rotation and regular glyphosate to keep it down, knowing it will take years to really control. Like brome, wild oats or blackgrass you never really eradicate it but good husbandry using a multitude of techniques together will really reduce it.

Forgive my being blunt here, but your opening post is short on detail;

If you're growing second winter wheats then I suggest you alter your rotation to stop that. Add spring cropping & regular breaks that allow different herbicde modes of action e.g. Kerb/Crawler and controlling it outside of the crop. Later autumn sowing, spring sowing, linseed, maize etc. In a fallow, you need to prevent it seeding - consider fallow/EFA for this patch but be prepared to top it regularly.
Were you using full rates and treating when the weed was actively growing?
What growth stage was the weed when you treated?
When did you spray the current crop of osr and what with? It takes a while for Kerb/Crawler to work. Pull a plant up - if the base of the shoot looks bulbous then it will work
nroso2-q6.jpg

Ask your agronomist more about this. If they are letting the problem get worse, you need to change your agronomist. Do the resiatance testing as it will be cheaper than keeping on throwing chemicals at it.

As for other grass weeds like blackgrass, there are a number of tools in the box for controlling it. Use as many as possible!
  • Grow a competitive crop - keep seed rates up
  • Stale seedbeds
  • Machine hygiene to prevent seed being spread further
  • Be prepared to hand rogue survivors or spray out patches of crop rather than allow seed return
  • Delay drilling to allow longer periods for control outside the crop
  • Spring drilling
  • Use multiple modes of action chemistry in crop, starting with a decent pre em herbicide which needs a nice firm fine seedbed
  • Don't cut herbicide rates
  • Work on your application techniques - good water volumes, nozzle choice etc
  • Fix underlying problems like soil acidity, P,K levels and any compaction or drainage issues
  • Have a good crop rotation not reliant on long runs of cereals or other grass species
  • Change the environment and you will change your weed
  • Know your enemy - get it tested!
 
Why is Clearfield better for grass weeds? Imazamox and the Dash adjuvant might tickle up grasses but even BASF don't claim any superior control from a Clearfield system in osr.

I know a guy who uses clearfield OSR and he drills his crop behind 2 yr grass leys. You would not believe how successful it is. When he told me about it I refused to believe him and I told him he was mental but it makes way more sense than going from grass into a cereal as they are similar species- OSR is a broad leaf so no pest issue and you can nail out grasses however you want?
 
We have a patch of Ryegrass on one side of a field sprayed it for 2 years in wheat now in Rape still can't kill it,nothing has worked,tried broadway star ,axial and many others,Agronomist says it's not Resistant to sprays.

RG is as bad as BG. Broadway star is no stronger than water and a complete waste of money. It’s failed us twice. Axial is still doing a job but only about 70% effective.

Callisto doesn’t touch it nor does Crew.

Only thing that’s left is roundup although we do get good control in both spring barley and spring linseed.
 

CornishTone

Member
BASIS
Location
Cornwall
We’ve had rye grass in our patch that’s been tested and is resistant to Glyphosate, Fops, Dims and SU’s. Bit of a nightmare scenario so it’s back to making hay and grazing for a few years. They’ve got it back under control with rotation, grazing and cutting without having to plough. Takes a few years but it can be done.

Then there’s the Seed Destructor which goes into the back of your combine and smashes up Weed seed in the chaff. 99% destruction of all weed seed provided you can get it into the header and onto the sieves. Chaff lining and chaff carts are also used around here. Not quite so elegant but cheaper and effective nonetheless.
 

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