Shear bolts

What are shear bolts? I hear a lot of people talking about breaking them? Where are they and what do they do? Apparently when I was muck spreading I nearly broke one, can exactly remember what I done but I think I left it at 540 then turned of the PTO, enlighten me on what they are and how not to break them, thanks.
 

bovine

Member
Location
North
They are built into rotating machinery as a point of weakness. Commonly found where the PTO shaft joins the machine. Designed that if something stops the turning force the shear bolt goes and and leaves the tractor PTO in effect freewheeling. I've snapped one in a feederwagon with a bale of wet silage.

They look like a normal bolt, but cost a lot more!

They generally break when something PTO driven is trying to turn and you do something to stop it.
 

JD-Kid

Member
realy just a safety part to stop sudden over loads
old fellas years ago on rocky or stump ground used to use wooden pegs on ploughs etc so if they hit a stump the plow would stop and not shock load the horses
older set up realy most modern pto's etc will have cam clutchs or slip clutchs BUT say baler knotters etc were it has to stop dead shear bolts will be used to total remove the input drive
 

Kevtherev

Member
Location
Welshpool Powys
ImageUploadedByThe Farming Forum1442729661.813928.jpg

See the bolt?
Designed to break to protect the tractor and machine driveline.
 

Grassman

Member
Location
Derbyshire
They are built into rotating machinery as a point of weakness. Commonly found where the PTO shaft joins the machine. Designed that if something stops the turning force the shear bolt goes and and leaves the tractor PTO in effect freewheeling. I've snapped one in a feederwagon with a bale of wet silage.

They look like a normal bolt, but cost a lot more!

They generally break when something PTO driven is trying to turn and you do something to stop it.
His veterinary skills isn't exclusively just animals!
 

Dry Rot

Member
Livestock Farmer
And when you need one, your dealer doesn't have any, so you have to import from thousands and thousands of miles away! If buying a machine that needs shear bolts, make sure there are supplies locally! (Still waiting for mine to arrive from the USA).
 

Tomtrac

Member
Location
Penrith cumbria
When you get fed up replacing them
get the welder out and weld it up then you can get on faster until it goes bang and blows a shaft /gear box
Its surprising if you check at sales etc how many are welded up generally can get away with a grind round to free off
 

JD-Kid

Member
And when you need one, your dealer doesn't have any, so you have to import from thousands and thousands of miles away! If buying a machine that needs shear bolts, make sure there are supplies locally! (Still waiting for mine to arrive from the USA).
have a ozzie made subsoiler here useds 19 mm steel rod for shear pins cheep as chips and about 4-5 ton break out even the point is held on with 4 mm mild steel fenceing wire ...
like neil is saying shear bolts mostly HT bolts ones on plow legs etc should be spun up on a lathe to have shear marks on them so yer don't get bur's when they break
 

Paddington

Member
Location
Soggy Shropshire
Once spent an annoying day breaking loads of shear bolts on a topper after not breaking one for years. The bolts were M8 and the hole was 9.5mm, so I reckoned the amount of slack down to the hole size was causing the bolts to break, perhaps the hole on the UJ needed to be reamed out to 10mm ? I even used a torque wrench to tighten them, perhaps it was down to snatch in the PTO clutch ? It couldn't be the bolts as they were still in the proper bag which I hadn't lost yet.
Problem solved next day as I realised dealer had given me bolts just too long to clear the yoke which was snapping them off...:wtf:
You just can't get the dealers these days.
@neilo has the right idea.
 

7610 super q

Never Forgotten
Honorary Member
Once spent an annoying day breaking loads of shear bolts on a topper after not breaking one for years. The bolts were M8 and the hole was 9.5mm, so I reckoned the amount of slack down to the hole size was causing the bolts to break, perhaps the hole on the UJ needed to be reamed out to 10mm ? I even used a torque wrench to tighten them, perhaps it was down to snatch in the PTO clutch ? It couldn't be the bolts as they were still in the proper bag which I hadn't lost yet.
Problem solved next day as I realised dealer had given me bolts just too long to clear the yoke which was snapping them off...:wtf:
You just can't get the dealers these days.
@neilo has the right idea.
Have you not read the panmixer topic.?:banhappy::banhappy::banhappy::banhappy::banhappy::stop::stop::stop::stop::stop::stop::stop:
 

jamesy

Member
Location
Orkney
Had a new Mchale wrapper this year, one day at the dealers I remarked that I was in for shear bolts as I had gone through all that came supplied with the wrapper, I mentioned my surprise as I hardly went through any with previous wrapper. I was seemingly the third person that week to have the same problem. Got new bolts from dealer & put one in & no more problems. So you can get below spec bolts it would appear!
 

Bury the Trash

Member
Mixed Farmer
For our different ploughs from the same company we have different colour coded bolts - different tensile strengths - they are grooved as JD-kid described- but even then they dont always 'shear correctly' -the battle is then to punch them out without doing damage.
 

Nearly

Member
Location
North of York
Our West muckspreader had a sticker, use 12.9 grade shear pins. Still used to buy them from dealer as he bought them by the 25kg box from ironmonger so was cheaper than original parts.
Bought a plough last year and made a point of freeing all the rust off the legs and making sure the shear bolts could break before I ploughed our stony field.
 

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