Wondered if anyone can point us in the right direction , got a small shed with an opening of a shade over 5m by roughly 2.2m high so wanting to put a sliding door in , will be using 50mm box for door frame but having not built any doors in tracking before desperately want to keep the height of the door as much as possible so thinking of tracking that bolts to the side of channel rather than from under the channel , have rsj in flush with the walls to carry the channel but what sort of size Chanel etc , would be handy to see someone’s work and opinion how to do it and where’s best to buy tracking and runners , thanks
Sliding barn doors on track etc
- Thread starter Surgery
- Start date
- Location
- North West Wales
We made a track for a similar situation. Was a larger door but used 50*100 box section as a rail with a flat bar tacked on as a lip. Used timing belt tensioner wheels as runners bolted inside the door frame rather than on top. Roller hooked on over the lip, hung the door in place and bolted offcuts of angle iron on the inside directly under the roller to stop the door lifting off. Did this to avoid any damages to the runner/track from loader etc and to maintain height. Clear as mud ehh!!!
- Location
- northumberland
Runners Agricultural Industrial Barn Sliding Door Gear Steel Track System 600kg | eBay
SERIES 70 SLIDING DOOR SYSTEM – MAXIMUM WEIGHT CAPACITY 600KG. The range is designed to be concise and straight forward to assemble. Generally two hangers are used on each door panel. Floor Channel NOT included but available as an extra in drop down.
www.ebay.co.uk
spanners and hammers
Member
- Location
- cambridgeshire
f h brundle
- Location
- Suffolk
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Cheaper alternative to Henderson running gear!
About here they would use a 9x3 timber for the top support, on a 5m wide they would bolt the 9x3 in a vertical position to a 6x3 in a horizontal position together and in either circumstance they would use 90dg angle iron (100x50x100w) stanchion brackets with two bolts to the stanchion and one for the timbers to hold it there.
Altho, if your planning on using channel iron that's the RR option so happy days.
The Henderson type track would be mounted with track face fix brackets in such a way the bottom of it would be flush, or slightly above the bottom of the timber, giving you the full opening.
the hangers (track rollers) would be slid into the track and the door would be attached.
normally use stepped flashing then to keep the water out, it runs down the timber 6" say, turns out the width of the door rail + the distance the door with the sheeting on it is and a bot more, it comes down about another 6" or so to keep the rain out and flares out a 45dg lip 20mm wide abouts.
it would be mounted to the timber after the track is up and before the sheeting would go on.
Re the door.
normally made and braced out of 50x50 box iron, a bigger size is no harm and feels far more of a quality door when opened, but not too big a box either, 60x60 kinda idea.
the door frame would be made and braced accordingly depending on if it was sheltered or open to the wind but as id say, "nothing too strong ever broke".
normally the top rail of the door is angle iron of similar size, its the preferred choice of hanging, box iron will do as long as you have enough lth of thread in the roller to spare, allowing for adjustment.
on the bottom they would normally use an angle iron rail the lth of the door turned down the way iykwim and a plate bolted to the stanchion with a slot in it for the angle iron rail to run in.
it keeps the door in check and stops it from dong its best impression of a sail.
A shed i built for a lad a while back, 3 doors, 2 were 4.8m and one was 4m, pics might give you a bit of an idea just.
Altho, if your planning on using channel iron that's the RR option so happy days.
The Henderson type track would be mounted with track face fix brackets in such a way the bottom of it would be flush, or slightly above the bottom of the timber, giving you the full opening.
the hangers (track rollers) would be slid into the track and the door would be attached.
normally use stepped flashing then to keep the water out, it runs down the timber 6" say, turns out the width of the door rail + the distance the door with the sheeting on it is and a bot more, it comes down about another 6" or so to keep the rain out and flares out a 45dg lip 20mm wide abouts.
it would be mounted to the timber after the track is up and before the sheeting would go on.
Re the door.
normally made and braced out of 50x50 box iron, a bigger size is no harm and feels far more of a quality door when opened, but not too big a box either, 60x60 kinda idea.
the door frame would be made and braced accordingly depending on if it was sheltered or open to the wind but as id say, "nothing too strong ever broke".
normally the top rail of the door is angle iron of similar size, its the preferred choice of hanging, box iron will do as long as you have enough lth of thread in the roller to spare, allowing for adjustment.
on the bottom they would normally use an angle iron rail the lth of the door turned down the way iykwim and a plate bolted to the stanchion with a slot in it for the angle iron rail to run in.
it keeps the door in check and stops it from dong its best impression of a sail.
A shed i built for a lad a while back, 3 doors, 2 were 4.8m and one was 4m, pics might give you a bit of an idea just.
Last edited by a moderator:
- Location
- Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk
fermerboy
Member
- Location
- Banffshire
These are the last two I did. Think it was 70mm x 6mm angle all round, bottom angle turned facing out to run water out of the track and let's you fit the sheets once the door is up and fitted. 30 x 50mm cross bearers inside. Tek screw sheet from inside of the angles, a quick belt with hammer or rub with grinder knocks the screw ends off.
On a new build I'd sink a 50mm thick wall tube so that its just almost half in the concrete, and the door has tabs on bottom angle to hold it at any opening.
That ones were replacement doors so not an option.
The tracking on that one was bolted right through the concrete lintel as the holes were there already.
On a new build I'd sink a 50mm thick wall tube so that its just almost half in the concrete, and the door has tabs on bottom angle to hold it at any opening.
That ones were replacement doors so not an option.
The tracking on that one was bolted right through the concrete lintel as the holes were there already.
Smart job , thinking of using 50-50mm box for the frame , going to bolt 150-75mm channel to some rsj already concreted in to bolt guides for the track which will run onto and a bit of 75-38mm channel concreted one to act as a runner along the bottom , want to make a fair job as this into is to be rented out.
If you are going to have a full width 6x3 channel anyway, why not go to 7x3 and run some small rubber tyred wheels along the web, just need to tack some 20mm bar along bottom lip to keep wheels in track.
Simple matter then to make axle hangers to carry door/s.
Simple matter then to make axle hangers to carry door/s.
Had a look at something as not made one before and thought it the easier way for me to make not saying it is thou and any ideas are good
fermerboy
Member
- Location
- Banffshire
Forget the channel in the bottom, we have these, they fill up with crap, or fill up with water and freeze then its a world if pain to thaw and get door open. Thats why we have the raised pipe as a guide now, with the bottom angle outways throwing the water outside the guide.
Quite agree but it’s a very Difficult entrance get into And can’t have any pipe etc sticking up as cars will be stored in the shed , it is sheltered from the rain and is in a clean yard
- Location
- Boroughbridge, york
The floor rails on my doors got bent, so we ripped them up and put drop bars on the doors, slide doors shut then drop bar into a hole on the floor, these can freeze in winter but dont take much defrosting,
But with that idea you need another fastener if wanting to lock up
But with that idea you need another fastener if wanting to lock up
- Location
- our house, Norn Iron
Floor rails are getting to be a thing of the past here, a length of angle iron welded to the door low down & a bit with a slot cut into bolted to the post, a big door get's a drop down bar as well for windy weather.
YepStuff like that?
- Tags
- dff
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