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Sliding barn doors on track etc
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<blockquote data-quote="tinman" data-source="post: 7037802" data-attributes="member: 11821"><p>About here they would use a 9x3 timber for the top support, on a 5m wide they would bolt the 9x3 in a vertical position to a 6x3 in a horizontal position together and in either circumstance they would use 90dg angle iron (100x50x100w) stanchion brackets with two bolts to the stanchion and one for the timbers to hold it there.</p><p>Altho, if your planning on using channel iron that's the RR option so happy days.</p><p></p><p>The Henderson type track would be mounted with track face fix brackets in such a way the bottom of it would be flush, or slightly above the bottom of the timber, giving you the full opening.</p><p>the hangers (track rollers) would be slid into the track and the door would be attached.</p><p>normally use stepped flashing then to keep the water out, it runs down the timber 6" say, turns out the width of the door rail + the distance the door with the sheeting on it is and a bot more, it comes down about another 6" or so to keep the rain out and flares out a 45dg lip 20mm wide abouts.</p><p>it would be mounted to the timber after the track is up and before the sheeting would go on.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Re the door.</p><p>normally made and braced out of 50x50 box iron, a bigger size is no harm and feels far more of a quality door when opened, but not too big a box either, 60x60 kinda idea.</p><p></p><p>the door frame would be made and braced accordingly depending on if it was sheltered or open to the wind but as id say, "nothing too strong ever broke".</p><p>normally the top rail of the door is angle iron of similar size, its the preferred choice of hanging, box iron will do as long as you have enough lth of thread in the roller to spare, allowing for adjustment.</p><p></p><p>on the bottom they would normally use an angle iron rail the lth of the door turned down the way iykwim and a plate bolted to the stanchion with a slot in it for the angle iron rail to run in.</p><p>it keeps the door in check and stops it from dong its best impression of a sail.</p><p></p><p>A shed i built for a lad a while back, 3 doors, 2 were 4.8m and one was 4m, pics might give you a bit of an idea just.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]894007[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]894008[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]894010[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tinman, post: 7037802, member: 11821"] About here they would use a 9x3 timber for the top support, on a 5m wide they would bolt the 9x3 in a vertical position to a 6x3 in a horizontal position together and in either circumstance they would use 90dg angle iron (100x50x100w) stanchion brackets with two bolts to the stanchion and one for the timbers to hold it there. Altho, if your planning on using channel iron that's the RR option so happy days. The Henderson type track would be mounted with track face fix brackets in such a way the bottom of it would be flush, or slightly above the bottom of the timber, giving you the full opening. the hangers (track rollers) would be slid into the track and the door would be attached. normally use stepped flashing then to keep the water out, it runs down the timber 6" say, turns out the width of the door rail + the distance the door with the sheeting on it is and a bot more, it comes down about another 6" or so to keep the rain out and flares out a 45dg lip 20mm wide abouts. it would be mounted to the timber after the track is up and before the sheeting would go on. Re the door. normally made and braced out of 50x50 box iron, a bigger size is no harm and feels far more of a quality door when opened, but not too big a box either, 60x60 kinda idea. the door frame would be made and braced accordingly depending on if it was sheltered or open to the wind but as id say, "nothing too strong ever broke". normally the top rail of the door is angle iron of similar size, its the preferred choice of hanging, box iron will do as long as you have enough lth of thread in the roller to spare, allowing for adjustment. on the bottom they would normally use an angle iron rail the lth of the door turned down the way iykwim and a plate bolted to the stanchion with a slot in it for the angle iron rail to run in. it keeps the door in check and stops it from dong its best impression of a sail. A shed i built for a lad a while back, 3 doors, 2 were 4.8m and one was 4m, pics might give you a bit of an idea just. [ATTACH type="full"]894007[/ATTACH][ATTACH type="full"]894008[/ATTACH][ATTACH type="full"]894010[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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