Snapping Flywheel Shear Bolts on a New Holland 276 Super Baler

[LichenFarmer]

This is super useful ... Have had a similar issue with my New Holland Hayliner Compact 65e. Will check all these points, as well as addressing the broken bits (for which I'll make a seperate post).

Thank you baler wizards. (And fixing balers clearly is wizardry... )

Joe

 

[tomlad]

I seem to remember a tale of my dads that he was doing too many shears on baler , he took advice, run engine bit faster , presumably 100 revs ish ,so i guessing 1500 became 1600 , so 540 was tiny bit higher. Problem solved. I think the tale was true but whether ornot correct practice , probably not .
I have never run a bailer.

 

[Exfarmer]

I seem to remember a tale of my dads that he was doing too many shears on baler , he took advice, run engine bit faster , presumably 100 revs ish ,so i guessing 1500 became 1600 , so 540 was tiny bit higher. Problem solved. I think the tale was true but whether ornot correct practice , probably not .
I have never run a bailer.

It is certainly correct that running a baler below the manufacturers recommended speed will shear bolts as the ram relies on the Velocity to make the impact and do its work. Running slow will dramatically raise the torque loading.

 

[tomlad]

Cant check with dad but just recall the tale

 

[db9go]

Cant check with dad but just recall the tale

He is or was right

 

[TrickyT]

Not had chance to investigate all of the things you have suggested.

However, I did some bales with the MF390 and baler on Thursday as he needed them done before the impending rain 150 bales with no issues. But this is what I did find.

• The MF390 has no rev counter or speedo, so you have no idea what the engine or PTO speed is. Apparently he was doing a rough count in his head to get it at the right stokes per minute!
• I downloaded an app to my phone to get the exact strokes per minute and used the phones GPS to work out what forward speed I was doing. The baler was definitely doing more SPM.
• Speaking afterwards, apparently he quite often turned left at the end of the run, instead of right, which I think puts extra strain on the PTO shaft?

Regards

Trevor

 

[davidroberts30]

Not had chance to investigate all of the things you have suggested.

However, I did some bales with the MF390 and baler on Thursday as he needed them done before the impending rain 150 bales with no issues. But this is what I did find.

• The MF390 has no rev counter or speedo, so you have no idea what the engine or PTO speed is. Apparently he was doing a rough count in his head to get it at the right stokes per minute!
• I downloaded an app to my phone to get the exact strokes per minute and used the phones GPS to work out what forward speed I was doing. The baler was definitely doing more SPM.
• Speaking afterwards, apparently he quite often turned left at the end of the run, instead of right, which I think puts extra strain on the PTO shaft?

Regards

Trevor

Yes but have you got a manual?
It goes through every setting and timing

 

[Goweresque]

Is the shear bolt going while you are taking in hay, or driving on the headland?

 

[Two Tone]

Lots of very useful advice on here that can’t really be added to.
You really do need the instruction manual to set the baler up properly, especially the ram guide to ensure the knives are parallel and close enough to each other. If you do this (and the shear bolt holes are not worn, or the needle brake is correctly tensioned and that the drive chains are correctly tensioned and timed so that the guide marks all line up correctly), You probably wont ever break a shearbolt unless you accidentally bale up something like a thick tree log!

 

[essexpete]

Not had chance to investigate all of the things you have suggested.

However, I did some bales with the MF390 and baler on Thursday as he needed them done before the impending rain 150 bales with no issues. But this is what I did find.

• The MF390 has no rev counter or speedo, so you have no idea what the engine or PTO speed is. Apparently he was doing a rough count in his head to get it at the right stokes per minute!
• I downloaded an app to my phone to get the exact strokes per minute and used the phones GPS to work out what forward speed I was doing. The baler was definitely doing more SPM.
• Speaking afterwards, apparently he quite often turned left at the end of the run, instead of right, which I think puts extra strain on the PTO shaft?

Regards

Trevor

Never had any trouble with shear bolts turning left or right on the 4 conventional balers we had. In fact if you think how the pto shaft is angled turning left would ease the joint nearest the tractor. The other end would depend on whether or not you have a 2 section shaft. I think you are looking in the wrong place. If your headlands are too narrow you should switch off pto at end of row anyway.

 

[Cowabunga]

I seem to remember a tale of my dads that he was doing too many shears on baler , he took advice, run engine bit faster , presumably 100 revs ish ,so i guessing 1500 became 1600 , so 540 was tiny bit higher. Problem solved. I think the tale was true but whether ornot correct practice , probably not .
I have never run a bailer.

I remember the old Jones Super Star had a recommended ram speed of 96 strokes per minute. Quite why they didn't gear it so that it did 96 at 540 PTO RPM always puzzled me. It actually required a PTO speed of about 600rpm to perform as it should at 96 ram strokes per minute. That was no problem for an MF 65 that had 540 at 1500, because 1700erpm gave just that. It was more of an issue on later Ford 5000 which had 540@1900erpm because 600 at the shaft required 2120 at the engine and the 5000 had its rated speed at 2100 and they had very slack governors that would let the engine slow down under quite a low loading, so it was difficult maintaining sufficient revs up hill.

As an aside, the Super Star didn't have a flywheel slip clutch. That came with later models like the Star T. The Super Star only had an over-run clutch.

 

[GmB]

Had a similar problem with my 276, turned out to be a broken pivot bolt that holds the pawl in the knotter clutch unit. Sent us potty by baling 200 bales without a shearbolt breakage, then would break one after 6 bales. Once the bolt had finally fallen out, you could see the needles start to move with every rotation of the fly wheel which would then snap the bolt, as its meant to do to protect the needles. Once we had narrowed the problem down, was easy to sort and looking back, was obvious where we should have been looking to start with. As already said, worth checking flywheel slip clutch plates, its an OLD baler and nothing lasts forever!

 

[LichenFarmer]

If I can hijack this thread for my own interests, while it has s good collection of knowledgeable folks.

I'm basically following the above advice for my NH Hayliner Compact 65e. Just reset the needle timing as per the manual which is satisfying.

Doing the slip clutch now but the manual does not specify how much torque to put on the bolts when retightening. Anybody have any ideas how to discover what it should be?

Thanks Joe

 

[Sharpy]

If I can hijack this thread for my own interests, while it has s good collection of knowledgeable folks.

I'm basically following the above advice for my NH Hayliner Compact 65e. Just reset the needle timing as per the manual which is satisfying.

Doing the slip clutch now but the manual does not specify how much torque to put on the bolts when retightening. Anybody have any ideas how to discover what it should be?

Thanks Joe

The manual should tell you the spring length under compression.

 

[chaffcutter]

If the machine has stood unused for any length of time, take the whole slip clutch apart and separate all the plates, if they are OK reassemble and set tension by the spring length as suggested in the manual, if you haven't got one tension until the spring coils are about 1/16 inch apart and try that. If they are worn get new ones, not expensive but its an important part.

 

[GmB]

Measure the exposed thread before you dismantle, and once you have finished checking the plates, tighten nuts until you reach the measurement you took earlier. Failing that, nip them up, start baling, if you loose drive, tighten each nut 1/2 turn. Do not over tighten or you will have other problems!

 

[LichenFarmer]

Thanks all. It doesn't mention the slip clutch in the manual at all. But I will try as suggested.

Cheers

 

[davidroberts30]

Set it back then even and maybe a bit looser
You will know in work if it's too slack and as said tweak it up a half turn until its running right

 

[TrickyT]

Yes but have you got a manual?
It goes through every setting and timing

Manual has arrived and have checked through all the settings, which everything seems to be correct.

Will check inside of the bale chamber when we have finished the small field that we have to do.

Has anyone got any advice on how to get a part done bale out of the baler before we go over it for the end of the season?

Trevor

 

[bobk]

Manual has arrived and have checked through all the settings, which everything seems to be correct.

Will check inside of the bale chamber when we have finished the small field that we have to do.

Has anyone got any advice on how to get a part done bale out of the baler before we go over it for the end of the season?

Trevor

In pieces .