spray tar

I need to resurface for cosmetic reasons a private track. The track has been made up over the years with rubble, dolomite, stone etc so it's quite solid, with no pot holes, and no concerns of it sinking. The traffic is mainly cars, the odd tractor and wagon with maybe a dozen journeys in total a day passing over it. Would I be able to level, for arguments sake 3" of road plainings, roll them, and then get one of these spray tar trucks and spray them with hot tar. Would this last as a surface?
 
DO NOT use spray tar, its a complete con and will not work, the surface will be gone within a month
Is this from experience? Would it last if say the tar was sprayed over an inch of chippings then another inch of chippings added and then the tar sprayed again etc. I'm just looking at ways of doing the job which will last but not cost a fortune as the track is a quarter of a mile long.
 

milkloss

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
East Sussex
Sorry but I don't think it would work. Spray tars are only really for sealing a crazed tarmac road and then dusting with washed gravel over the top.
Ayton products might have some product data sheets of interest. I keep planning to get some K1-70 to cook up and save our road a little.
 

Man & Boy

Member
Location
Leeds.
Somewhere near you, there may be a firm who crush bricks removed from demolished buildings to resell it has hardcore. Visit the yard and speak to the person in charge and ask him for the D-U-S-T, (the brick-dust) the correct name is small fines, but more often than not these yards don't bother with trivialities like that. He'll know what you mean, he might give you it free because there's not a lot of call for it and he may have 1000 tons of it that no one wants, then again he might be a wise old coot who wants £6-00 a ton for it. Here's the secret: Brick dust contains a large amount of crushed cement, (mortar) buy it and lay it about 3-4 inches deep, then roll it, or whack it with a Wacker Plate.When it gets damp it sets like concrete.
 

H200GT

Member
Location
NORTH WALES
Waste of time and money IMO.

There is no cheap way to make a track, its tar or concrete for a pucka job.

Seen this job done on a rural public highway a few years ago, it was then topped with tarmac, still as good as new. No experience of it trafficed without surfacing, but may be a half way house option. Others will know better im sure http://www.roadreclamation.co.uk/
 

trook135

Member
Location
Hampshire
Is this from experience? Would it last if say the tar was sprayed over an inch of chippings then another inch of chippings added and then the tar sprayed again etc. I'm just looking at ways of doing the job which will last but not cost a fortune as the track is a quarter of a mile long.


Yes from experience, did the yard entrance on top of a good number of years of very well compacted hoggings/ tar chippings, i should think it will be completely worn away in the high traffic areas within the next month, was only done 2 months ago!
 
Yes from experience, did the yard entrance on top of a good number of years of very well compacted hoggings/ tar chippings, i should think it will be completely worn away in the high traffic areas within the next month, was only done 2 months ago!
Didn't expect it would wear that quick. Might have to bite the bullet and tarmac it properly
 

Gadget

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Sutton Coldfield
A number of years ago the road through part of our village was "resurfaced". They had a planer and dropped the planings back on the road, next were a few passes of a tar truck and a tractor with a 2m kuhn powerharrow on and finally rolled.
I didnt see how they finally got the level but it is still servicable and has had a couple of tar/chipping layers since.
 

Lincsman

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
A number of years ago the road through part of our village was "resurfaced". They had a planer and dropped the planings back on the road, next were a few passes of a tar truck and a tractor with a 2m kuhn powerharrow on and finally rolled.
I didnt see how they finally got the level but it is still servicable and has had a couple of tar/chipping layers since.

That has been done locally on a few lanes, seems to work ok after 2 years use, but isnt a smooth surface and rely's on a good thick layer of tar and chippings to seal it. The council called it recycling the road.
 

wisdoms

New Member
Location
Bucks
I have to say tar and chip does last if applied in two coats rolling both layers in was doing this for years with a tar gang before I went into a less labour intensive job did lot of work for farmers up and down the country who were looking for a cost effective way of making good there tracks same we whent bk to do minor repairs after a few years but made a good sound surface make sure it's hot and granite chips chaps I worked with are still doing it roadsealsurfacing.co.uk
 

How much

Member
Location
North East
I need to resurface for cosmetic reasons a private track. The track has been made up over the years with rubble, dolomite, stone etc so it's quite solid, with no pot holes, and no concerns of it sinking. The traffic is mainly cars, the odd tractor and wagon with maybe a dozen journeys in total a day passing over it. Would I be able to level, for arguments sake 3" of road plainings, roll them, and then get one of these spray tar trucks and spray them with hot tar. Would this last as a surface?

I have done this and Road planing would do it OK , but you need a good source of them as you dont want any lumps in them as its harder to get you depth right and the lumps create areas where potholes can form., And ideally angular with sharp edge chips are better as opposed to round ( they bind together better) I think this depends on the depth, age and material they have been milled from but good supplier will know that.



you must have a crown on the road to shed the water so you need to take care when you lay them , on a narrow track a 5 ton mini digger works good with ditch cleaning bucket , put blade down so the front of the tacks lift up and work the sides up to the middle with the machine sitting up at the front . This will help form the crown and then drag the centre of the road back last , the centre of the bucket should just be doing the work in the middle of the road the sides should be lower as it falls away.
You have to roll it loads at least 5 or 6 passes with self propelled double drum roller going side to side and along the track , do side to side first to firm up the crown shape , you can back blade a little with the blade on the digger to smooth it a bit if you can get the machine off to either side of the track after the first pass with the roller but after that just pound it down the more the better.

a couple of bricks with a line between keeps the crown the right height and a couple of people on rakes makes a tidy job , but you could do 1/4 mile in day no problem
 

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Red Tractor drops launch of green farming scheme amid anger from farmers

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As reported in Independent


quote: “Red Tractor has confirmed it is dropping plans to launch its green farming assurance standard in April“

read the TFF thread here: https://thefarmingforum.co.uk/index.php?threads/gfc-was-to-go-ahead-now-not-going-ahead.405234/
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