Put liquid gypsum on with a sprayer.Anyone else got any ideas on this? Ive spoken to a merchant today to see if they can source any out of curiosity, and at what price.
Idea is to increase calcium levels, they are low to very low, probably not helped by magnesium being high to very high, increase soil porosity/openness, and to provide some sulphur.
Any ideas on cost/application rates?Put liquid gypsum on with a sprayer.
Are you on clay?Anyone else got any ideas on this? Ive spoken to a merchant today to see if they can source any out of curiosity, and at what price.
Idea is to increase calcium levels, they are low to very low, probably not helped by magnesium being high to very high, increase soil porosity/openness, and to provide some sulphur.
What about calcium carbonate lime?Does anyone do this on grazing ground? We’ve got low to very low calcium levels here, think it would help.
What kind of rates do you put it down at?
No but not lightAre you on clay?
Have spread some already, just trying to find out if there’s any more benefits to gypsumWhat about calcium carbonate lime?
There's a sulphur benefit from gypsum, but that's relative to the application rate. Sulphur would only be available in the short term as it's leached out of the soil like nitrogen.Have spread some already, just trying to find out if there’s any more benefits to gypsum
We've put 10 litres per hectare on grassland and 15 litres on grass before ploughing. Somebody will be along and say it's not enough but it makes a difference here particularly with working ground down. Agronomist suggested we try it as we had a compaction problem. Fields that have been treated now drain betterAny ideas on cost/application rates?
If you've got a compaction problem that's surely got to be down to management of traffic and stocking?We've put 10 litres per hectare on grassland and 15 litres on grass before ploughing. Somebody will be along and say it's not enough but it makes a difference here particularly with working ground down. Agronomist suggested we try it as we had a compaction problem. Fields that have been treated now drain better
If it's waste gypsum I think the rate is 1t/ha if you just want to spread it as a 'low risk' waste. If it's waste gypsum and you want to spread more than that then the supplier will need to apply (deployment) to the EA in England, and I'm guessing similar with SEPA in Scotland - so it all gets very expensive.I am pretty sure that you can't apply more than a ton an acre without a special licence, at this rate you will have some effect on pH and contribute some valuable sulphur to the growing crop (but S leaches out quickly) but won't have any effect worth bothering with on high mag soils and reflocculation of salt water damaged soils.
If the product is clean and the day is still (it is very finely ground) it is one of the companies they supply good stuff, not sure whether I would put it on land that was to be grazed soon though, my gut feeling says no.
Get what your saying, ground is relatively high in magnesium and the gypsum helps. On the subsoiling side of things I've only got small kit so would need a contractor in and my thinking is I'd rather pay them to do 4 or 5 passes with a sprayer at a good speed rather than up and down at whatever width the subsoiler is at a slower speed. Also when burning of grass to plough gypsum goes in the tank with whatever is used so technically no application cost for gypsum. It's horses for courses and everybody needs to do what suits themIf you've got a compaction problem that's surely got to be down to management of traffic and stocking?
If you have heavy clay and high magnesium then there's likely to be a 'tight' soil structure because the magnesium is holding the clay particles together tightly..... I suppose you could call that compaction.
Dig a hole carefully and ask the agronomist to show you where the compaction is....... it may be that a careful subsoiling in the summer will rectify the problem........ obviouslyit's hard to say without being 'on the ground'.
Depends where the compacted layer is as to what the correction should be.Get what your saying, ground is relatively high in magnesium and the gypsum helps. On the subsoiling side of things I've only got small kit so would need a contractor in and my thinking is I'd rather pay them to do 4 or 5 passes with a sprayer at a good speed rather than up and down at whatever width the subsoiler is at a slower speed. Also when burning of grass to plough gypsum goes in the tank with whatever is used so technically no application cost for gypsum. It's horses for courses and everybody needs to do what suits them
At what index level is Mag classed as high.Depends where the compacted layer is as to what the correction should be.
If you are heavy clay with high Mag then it's likely the tight soil structure is due to this, but if you don't have those two things then compaction is likely to be down to another cause........ or it could be a combination of that and other management.
Yes, index 4 and 5 is high.At what index level is Mag classed as high.
We have some clay soils that are quite tight and sit in water in winter that are indexes 4’s to 5’s, on standard ph,p,k mag tests
Here's link on eBay, there are other sellers. Obviously buying hundreds of bags isn't cheap, so after the small scale test IF more is needed it is possible to buy bulker loads of the same stuff.... which reduces cost significantly. This eBay listing if £115 for the five bags......At what index level is Mag classed as high.
We have some clay soils that are quite tight and sit in water in winter that are indexes 4’s to 5’s, on standard ph,p,k mag tests
We are all 5+ on the Soyl tests, I think that is as high as the test results go.At what index level is Mag classed as high.
We have some clay soils that are quite tight and sit in water in winter that are indexes 4’s to 5’s, on standard ph,p,k mag tests