Spring Barley Establishment by Vaderstad Seed Hawk

TWF

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Peterborough
We have gone back to using a tine drill to drill in the spring.
Pic.1 19mm Point. Pic.2 Vaderstad Seed Hawk twin 12mm tine works more tilth. Pic.3 19mm Bogart point . Pic 4&5 Stepped fert front seed back tine. Two fingers bottom of furrow, four fingers top.

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TWF

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Peterborough
Very green (sticky) after drilling 31st March a day later Tilso rake and roll with 7KG slug pellets. knocks stubble over forming a little mulch over soil. Clay loam, thin cover crop sprayed off in Jan.

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TWF

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Peterborough
Pic1. 16th April. Pic 2. 27th April. Pic3. !0th May Cutting in some clover as an experiment. 20Kg of P added at drilling(DAP 37kg.) 1/2 N added to seedbed before drilling.

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alomy75

Member
How do you get on with the seed hawk? We used to run a dale seed hawk but were min-till at the time. Currently on a sprinter with metcalfe which works very well direct drilling but it does need a very level seedbed; I like the idea of the seed hawk with better contour following but is there enough consolidation without a packer with some decent hopper weight on it?
 

TWF

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Peterborough
There is a packer wheel that is the depth wheel on each tine. You can adjust the ram pressure on the seed arm to suit the conditions.
In Good soil conditions like this, the wheel is fine. On heavier dry cloddy clay we will use the Tilso rake. On soft peat, we use a roll to level and consolidate as you have the colter pressure right off or you will berry it.
 

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alomy75

Member
Yes ours had the same tine; we just couldn’t get enough consolidation as the untouched ridges between the coulters held the rolls up. Do you put seed down both pipes on each leg assembly? Front and rear coulters?
 

TWF

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Peterborough
If using high seed rates and no Fert.
The beauty of the Tiloso rake is it rolls as well, If you need to roll it a bit heavier, the rake has leveled off the furrows and the rollers will press the whole seedbed. If drilling osr you would just need to check drilling depth to take into account you are going to cover with more soil. We did similar , when we had a Claydon drill.
 
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Fuzzy

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Bedfordshire
We have gone back to using a tine drill to drill in the spring.
Pic.1 19mm Point. Pic.2 Vaderstad Seed Hawk twin 12mm tine works more tilth. Pic.3 19mm Bogart point . Pic 4&5 Stepped fert front seed back tine. Two fingers bottom of furrow, four fingers top.

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What do these rows look like now?
 

Will7

Member
@TWF what openers are you using on the seed hawk? I run one with Metcalfes and am looking at the difference options. I wasn’t a fan of the originals with the stainless sleeve clamping the rubber tube to the leg. I believe seed hawk now do an all steel leg and tube but have not seen it in the flesh yet.
thanks
 

alomy75

Member
@TWF what openers are you using on the seed hawk? I run one with Metcalfes and am looking at the difference options. I wasn’t a fan of the originals with the stainless sleeve clamping the rubber tube to the leg. I believe seed hawk now do an all steel leg and tube but have not seen it in the flesh yet.
thanks
Have you a pic of them? I’ve metcalfe on a sprinter and would definitely have them on a seed hawk too…what’s the row width of you put seed down one and/or both coulters on each leg assembly?
 

TWF

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Peterborough
@TWF what openers are you using on the seed hawk? I run one with Metcalfes and am looking at the difference options. I wasn’t a fan of the originals with the stainless sleeve clamping the rubber tube to the leg. I believe seed hawk now do an all steel leg and tube but have not seen it in the flesh yet.
thanks
Still on original ones. BTT do these https://bttuk.com/products/686-knh-1001-1001p/ .

We are finding better tilth using the twin original tine than the single one that left a bit of a wet grove this spring.

The twin tine does "clump and dump" if you leave the stubble too long as you warned us last year.
 

Will7

Member
Still on original ones. BTT do these https://bttuk.com/products/686-knh-1001-1001p/ .

We are finding better tilth using the twin original tine than the single one that left a bit of a wet grove this spring.

The twin tine does "clump and dump" if you leave the stubble too long as you warned us last year.
I have been running a couple of these this year. They don’t plug the seed tube like the metcalfes, but they are wider and a lot longer in the shank. Spoke to btt about this who thought I may have been sent the north American version which is designed to hunt for moisture.

I also have tried running the 19mm btt replaceable tip as a single opener, but as you said the twin tined provides better tilth around the seed.
 

TWF

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Peterborough
What do these rows look like now?
Spring barley a bit short but we have been very dry here and only seem to get light showers of 1-5mm periodically. OSR pic of where the drill picture is from.
 

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simon p

New Member
I am looking at a used seedhawk ,newer version are there any weak spots I should look for ,we are on a variety of soils rangining from chalk to clay and some very flinty downland .does it cope with stones?
 

TWF

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Peterborough
All the hinges have bushes so can get replaced if worn. The only thing we have had brake is the steering wheels at the front the bush holding sleave broke away from the bolted plate. This didn't stop us from drilling at the time but did want to replace it before it wore the frame. Then the new replacement came with a newer version and more bolt holes than we have on the frame. Just waiting on the correct version.
 

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