Steel framed barn advice

[suffolksmallholder]

I have a steel framed open barn c1970's and I need to fix some wriggly tin sides to it to keep the weather out. The gable ends need to be done too.
I need advice on how to fix the horizontals and if possible a picture to show this, if there are 'standard' lengths of these horizontal sections and how to finish under the existing cement fibre roof. Is there a particular way or a profile for this?
I am going to replace the guttering too as much of this is missing.
Will I need a mag drill to drill holes in the main uprights? I can drill a 13mm hole with a normal drill bit. This will allow for a M12 bolt. Is this big enough?
I know there are self tapping fixing screws for this job and they will come with the wriggly tin.
By wriggly tin I mean 'profile' box section....
Thanks.
SS

 

[devonshire farmer]

Depends on the size of rsj the posts are made from if they are small a mag drill wont go in the web anyway, if you got half a dozen sharp drill bits and drill a pilot hole first it wont take much longer.

What you want to do is buy a heap of cleats or a length of ange iron 3 or 4 inch and drill the holes and cut up after, the horizontal rails would be 15 ft or 20ft usually depending on size of bays up the side then on the gable depending on width put a dropper at 10,15 or 20ft whatever suits.

As for putting up under the roof if you strip the old gutter first and use the same profile section it should sit up nicely, I am assuming your shed is the old type barn with rounded roof.

 

[Henarar]

if you are going to use timber side rails just cut them to length and wedge them in the web for the side off the shed you don't need any cleats the tin will stop them moving once its fixed this is as long as your fixing the tin to the eves purling at the top if not just drill a hole big enough to drive a good size nail through the RSJ and into the side rail
the side rails for the end off the shed will need cleats but you can just weld them on and fix the rail with an m12

 

[devonshire farmer]

if you are going to use timber side rails just cut them to length and wedge them in the web for the side off the shed you don't need any cleats the tin will stop them moving once its fixed this is as long as your fixing the tin to the eves purling at the top if not just drill a hole big enough to drive a good size nail through the RSJ and into the side rail
the side rails for the end off the shed will need cleats but you can just weld them on and fix the rail with an m12

I was explaining the usual method now you been and told him typical farmer style, guess which one hes going to choose, if in doubt give it a clout and if all else fails use a 6" nail!

 

[Henarar]

I was explaining the usual method now you been and told him typical farmer style, guess which one hes going to choose, if in doubt give it a clout and if all else fails use a 6" nail!

maybe but it works and its cheap
we have side cladding that has been up for 30 years like that.
how can a peice off timber that is jammed in the web of an RSJ come out

 

[devonshire farmer]

maybe but it works and its cheap
we have side cladding that has been up for 30 years like that.
how can a peice off timber that is jammed in the web of an RSJ come out

I take your point and have seen it done but for the sake of a couple bolts and a small cleat is it really worth skimping on it

 

[rob1]

Wickes do predrilled angles that will support the timber or get some angle and cut it into lenghts and weld it to the uprights to support the timber or buy some 4 x 4 angle the same length as the bay and weld that to the purlins and fix the sheets straight to it with tec screws

 

[Henarar]

I take your point and have seen it done but for the sake of a couple bolts and a small cleat is it really worth skimping on it

No if i was skimping i would cut some wood out the hedge and nail some rusty galvanise iron up to it LOL

 

[suffolksmallholder]

Thank you for the replies. I like the economy range you suggested @Henarar! I'll look at the options carefully. We're quite an exposed site so blots may be the safest solution.
SS

 

[Henarar]

Thank you for the replies. I like the economy range you suggested @Henarar! I'll look at the options carefully. We're quite an exposed site so blots may be the safest solution.
SS

quite right to

 

[JNP]

Go with your original suggestion. A couple of m12 bolts in a cleat into the column web will be fine. Cut your timbers tight to the webs and chisel out the front to fit around the flange. 1 m12 coach bolt into the timber then. All done with normal drill. As for spacing the timbers around 4ft or so will be ok, stick om in 150mm above floor then evenly space them. You may wish to screw a timber up the back of them before fixing sheets to tie them together to stop sagging.
At the top of the side sheet, ideally you will still be under the roof sheet as the roof will have more then a 32mm overhanging into existing gutter.
When you fit new gutter assuming pvc, screw a 5x1 timber to the face of the tin sheets the fix gutter brackets to this, alternatively if your existing roof does not project iut eniuth to fit a 1inch board then you can fix a 'slip flashing' which is a tin flashing the same colour as the tin.

Hope that makes sense.
Phil