Stoll LRZ joystick

[Jsmith2211]

Hello,

So we recently bought a new case maxxum 125 (not multicontroller) with a stoll loader. The tractor and loader are both great, except for the joystick which is not the best. Its fairly flimsy and plasticy, but the real problem is that it is fairly stiff to tip the bucket down. The loader was also making a kind of banging noise when we were shoveling dung the other day, only when under heavy load as in pulling the dung backwards with the back of the bucket. We wandered if this was self leveling or float or something as this is the first loader with this on that either me or my father have used. Any ideas on how I can make the joystick a little less stiff? Or failing that, is it possible to put a slightly less stiff joystick on instead?

Thank you in advance.

 

[Tractortech]

Now Then..
By, recently you bought a new tractor and loader, how recently are you talking?? If it's all 'new', why not have a chat with the dealer?? Perhaps the cables are poorly installed, causing some binding.
All loaders seem to have a similar plastic joystick housing. How it feels is often down to how it's mounted. I've found that some of the loader manufacturers bits of brackets and ideas can be poor or flimsy. I've made many mounting brackets over the years which I thought an improvement to that which was supplied..

 

[J 1177]

Hello,

So we recently bought a new case maxxum 125 (not multicontroller) with a stoll loader. The tractor and loader are both great, except for the joystick which is not the best. Its fairly flimsy and plasticy, but the real problem is that it is fairly stiff to tip the bucket down. The loader was also making a kind of banging noise when we were shoveling dung the other day, only when under heavy load as in pulling the dung backwards with the back of the bucket. We wandered if this was self leveling or float or something as this is the first loader with this on that either me or my father have used. Any ideas on how I can make the joystick a little less stiff? Or failing that, is it possible to put a slightly less stiff joystick on instead?

Thank you in advance.

The banging will be the wedges to keep the loader on need adjusting, ours did it when you powered the loader down. I can't help with the joystick, mines on the electro one but I had a 110 borrowed before mine came it's joystick was ok and didn't do what you say, worth a phone call to the dealer?

 

[Mur Huwcun]

Is the ‘banging’ not the bucket rattling on the carrier? You mentioned pulling with back of bucket, that’s putting a lot of strain on the loader carriage locking pins and bracket on bucket that it’s not designed for, the locking pins are only there to stop the bucket falling off. When in work a properly setup pair if brackets will be resting on the carriage with the pins under no strain or loading. As mentioned tractor loader joysticks are a bit c**p, plasticy and flimpsy in design. Maybe your cable needs oiling or replacing ie even just needs to be setup properly. Can you lock the joystick with the little peg/lever on it when it’s in the centre position without having to move it at all, that is a fairly good indication if the cables are setup

 

[J 1177]

Is the ‘banging’ not the bucket rattling on the carrier? You mentioned pulling with back of bucket, that’s putting a lot of strain on the loader carriage locking pins and bracket on bucket that it’s not designed for, the locking pins are only there to stop the bucket falling off. When in work a properly setup pair if brackets will be resting on the carriage with the pins under no strain or loading. As mentioned tractor loader joysticks are a bit c**p, plasticy and flimpsy in design. Maybe your cable needs oiling or replacing ie even just needs to be setup properly. Can you lock the joystick with the little peg/lever on it when it’s in the centre position without having to move it at all, that is a fairly good indication if the cables are setup

The banging will be the wedges onto the tractor mounting brackets i found it very hard to pinpoint

 

[Jsmith2211]

Is the ‘banging’ not the bucket rattling on the carrier? You mentioned pulling with back of bucket, that’s putting a lot of strain on the loader carriage locking pins and bracket on bucket that it’s not designed for, the locking pins are only there to stop the bucket falling off. When in work a properly setup pair if brackets will be resting on the carriage with the pins under no strain or loading. As mentioned tractor loader joysticks are a bit c**p, plasticy and flimpsy in design. Maybe your cable needs oiling or replacing ie even just needs to be setup properly. Can you lock the joystick with the little peg/lever on it when it’s in the centre position without having to move it at all, that is a fairly good indication if the cables are setup

I do have to wiggle the joystick a little to get the pin to go in. It only has 150 hours on the clock and is a factory fitted loader.....

The banging will be the wedges onto the tractor mounting brackets i found it very hard to pinpoint

So is this something that can/needs to be fixed or is it a non issue?

 

[J 1177]

I do have to wiggle the joystick a little to get the pin to go in. It only has 150 hours on the clock and is a factory fitted loader.....



So is this something that can/needs to be fixed or is it a non issue?

It's ok if you look in the crossmember of the loader the destruction book should be there, it tells you how to adjust them read it first as it's the opposite way round to what you think (you slacken the bolt to push the wedge further in then do the locknut up). What model loader is it, as I think the big ones are different

 

[Jsmith2211]

It's ok if you look in the crossmember of the loader the destruction book should be there, it tells you how to adjust them read it first as it's the opposite way round to what you think (you slacken the bolt to push the wedge further in then do the locknut up). What model loader is it, as I think the big ones are different

its an lrz 130 with the cable controls.

 

[balerman]

its an lrz 130 with the cable controls.

Go and get a JD joystick,made out of metal and feels much stronger and more precise.

 

[Jsmith2211]

Go and get a JD joystick,made out of metal and feels much stronger and more precise.

would it be possible to graft the JD one onto the maxxum we have? Also would this not void the warrenty on the tractor/loader? As i mentioned it only has 150ish hours on it and was delivered in december.

 

[balerman]

would it be possible to graft the JD one onto the maxxum we have? Also would this not void the warrenty on the tractor/loader? As i mentioned it only has 150ish hours on it and was delivered in december.

I know its been done before,and I think the cables will fit the JD joystick.I cant see any potential warranty issues other than the loader cables,its what I would do.

 

[Jsmith2211]

I know its been done before,and I think the cables will fit the JD joystick.I cant see any potential warranty issues other than the loader cables,its what I would do.

Would the JD joystick be less stiff than the stoll or just a bit less plasticey and rubbish?

 

[balerman]

Would the JD joystick be less stiff than the stoll or just a bit less plasticey and rubbish?

Surely its the cables that are stiff?

 

[Jsmith2211]

Surely its the cables that are stiff?

I dont know. It's a lot stiffer than the last cable joystick we had. How would i stop the cables being stiff?

 

[balerman]

I dont know. It's a lot stiffer than the last cable joystick we had. How would i stop the cables being stiff?

Probably have to replace them,they cant be oiled or greased.Warranty issue surely, you will soon break the plastic joystick anyway if the cables are stiff...

 

[Jsmith2211]

Probably have to replace them,they cant be oiled or greased.Warranty issue surely, you will soon break the plastic joystick anyway if the cables are stiff...

its odd though, because the up and down and tiping the bucket up are all fine, it is only when you try to tip the bucket down (which is also pushing to the right towards the door) which seems to be stiff. It did look like the little ball end on the end of the cable had to move when the stick was pushed to the right to tip the bucket down. is it possible to grease these ends a bit better? And as for breaking the joystick, ive already had the top of it come off several times...

 

[Fendtbro]

I’ve set these joysticks up many times, even the cheaper ones should work well with correct setup. First thing is the problem cable routed with at least as a bend as possible? If similar to the other one then it’s likely ok. Next, a cable is much more efficient when pulled rather than pushed. Your arm can pull much easier towards you than away to the right, so make sure that the crowd cable is pulling when your arm is pushing. Some joysticks can be all swapped round the wrong way and get in a muddle. Obviously Hyd pipes may have to be reversed. on nearly every setup I have done, I have had to take the alloy caps off the valve chest and fit softer springs. The springs the manufacturer fits are to fight against stiff dry cables in years to come with no thought to the operator having to do thousands of hours holding onto the damn thing. Sliding gate latch pin springs cut down often work well. With short cables and good routing can be as light as an electric stick.. buy shorter cables if possible. Remove yours and check dead free. As already said make sure setup dead centre and joystick nice and central. Lock should engage without wiggling.
can’t think of much else..

 

[Jsmith2211]

I’ve set these joysticks up many times, even the cheaper ones should work well with correct setup. First thing is the problem cable routed with at least as a bend as possible? If similar to the other one then it’s likely ok. Next, a cable is much more efficient when pulled rather than pushed. Your arm can pull much easier towards you than away to the right, so make sure that the crowd cable is pulling when your arm is pushing. Some joysticks can be all swapped round the wrong way and get in a muddle. Obviously Hyd pipes may have to be reversed. on nearly every setup I have done, I have had to take the alloy caps off the valve chest and fit softer springs. The springs the manufacturer fits are to fight against stiff dry cables in years to come with no thought to the operator having to do thousands of hours holding onto the damn thing. Sliding gate latch pin springs cut down often work well. With short cables and good routing can be as light as an electric stick.. buy shorter cables if possible. Remove yours and check dead free. As already said make sure setup dead centre and joystick nice and central. Lock should engage without wiggling.
can’t think of much else..

I think i'll have a go with the springs when it is out of warrenty. And fit the better joystick while im at it. Do you know where i can find the manual for the loader? It is a CASE IH lrz 130 on a maxxum 125

 

[J 1177]

its an lrz 130 with the cable controls.

Yep same as mine

I think i'll have a go with the springs when it is out of warrenty. And fit the better joystick while im at it. Do you know where i can find the manual for the loader? It is a CASE IH lrz 130 on a maxxum 125

Ours was under the plastic cover on the crossmember of the loader

 

[Jsmith2211]

Yep same as mine

Ours was under the plastic cover on the crossmember of the loader

OK will have a look. Did you find your joystick to be fairly stiff?