On the subject of US equipment, I have an old Dunham Lehr ultra mulcher for working a very shallow tilth. Good trash flow and consolidation, pull it fast to throw the soil. Bearings on the packer might not like doing a large area though.
Straw rake or Alternative
- Thread starter BuskhillFarm
- Start date
On the subject of US equipment, I have an old Dunham Lehr ultra mulcher for working a very shallow tilth. Good trash flow and consolidation, pull it fast to throw the soil. Bearings on the packer might not like doing a large area though.
- Location
- North Yorkshire
Would a Opico type grass harrow do any good? Had terrible problem with slugs in DD wheat after OSR this year. Also looking at considering some sort of tine followed by a Guttler packer.
- Location
- Lincolnshire
We have used a Spaldings tined weeder / grass Harrow with the tines in backwards trailing their feet to fairly good effect. Travel fast and it really evens the chaff out. Still needed a few pellets though. Do it before volunteers bind it all together or it gets too wet.
Small farm so wasn’t going to fork out for a one trick straw rake for £k.
- Location
- Lincolnshire
High speed pass with a power Harrow is another way. Just tickle. Don’t uproot the stubble.
If it’s really bad just plough it and be done with it.
If it’s really bad just plough it and be done with it.
- Location
- Lincs / Cambs border
I tried that with a powerharrow and couldn’t stop it bouncing.High speed pass with a power Harrow is another way. Just tickle. Don’t uproot the stubble.
If it’s really bad just plough it and be done with it.
- Location
- Lincolnshire
You might have been going a bit faster than me! I always run the PH on its rear roller and the top link for depth control, tractor arms floating like a haybob so if tractor bounces it should not affect PH too much. Top link in top hole on PH and bottom hole on tractor. Adjust top link to set front depth of PH, lower arms right down, rear end sits on roller. You probably set it like that anyway.
I’m doing about 10k or 6 mph. Avoid tearing up stubble or it’s worse for the drill. Maybe lift rear clod gate to avoid it bulldozing.
- Location
- Lincs / Cambs border
We were doing about the same speed but couldn’t stop it , also found it towed the straw up . Years ago we had a Moore unidrill on a goose neck draw bar behind a power Harrow we just scratched the surface with the power Harrow drilling OSR and went like the clappers , I think the extra weight of the drill stopped bouncing.
- Location
- North Yorkshire
Like the idea of that. Only a small area and straw rakes seem crazy money.
Sprayer 1
Member
- Location
- Tarporley, Cheshire.
Is it the tines that are very expensive for the straw rake? Can't see how they cost so much.
I worked it out the other day buying retail I think it was about £3k for all the tines. Some mark up. In fairness I think £13k is just a figure they put on them. Like cultivators they’re all £15k if it’s a simple 5 leg toolbar or Pottinger synkro same price
Another good idea. Powerharrow. I’ve a good heavey alpego it’ll not bounceHigh speed pass with a power Harrow is another way. Just tickle. Don’t uproot the stubble.
If it’s really bad just plough it and be done with it.
Sprayer 1
Member
- Location
- Tarporley, Cheshire.
I think it calls for some recycling of some of these old cultivators on ebay. Drop the spring tines and replace with straw tines, lick if paint,job done.
- Location
- Darlington
I have a set of Kverneland C tines wondering big they could be converted to front linkage with the rollers behind?
- Location
- Lincolnshire
Any tine that is leading rather than trailing will struggle with trash here. Spring tines tend to accumulate “mouses nests” here even when well spaced but we are sand so they don’t agitate m, just rake. The tine needs to be trailing with a foot that trails even more.
\ travelling to the left
~
It doesn’t want to be like a hook.
I have also used heavy discs actually but that’s more like min till. I don’t get get hung up about it.
\ travelling to the left
~
It doesn’t want to be like a hook.
I have also used heavy discs actually but that’s more like min till. I don’t get get hung up about it.
- Location
- Lincolnshire
I quite like heavy discs followed by a direct drill on clay. Can’t seem to get any tilth or mold otherwise. The discs don’t really disrupt more than an inch and a half deep so you don’t loose the self structuring lower down the profile or turn it into dried out rocks like ploughing. You keep BG near the surface rather than mixing it through the profile.
I like discs as long as there isn’t turf about. Then it’s plough or (subsoil if necessary and DD).
Set of s/h heavy discs now about half the price of a straw rake. It’s a bit of a bandwagon.
I like discs as long as there isn’t turf about. Then it’s plough or (subsoil if necessary and DD).
Set of s/h heavy discs now about half the price of a straw rake. It’s a bit of a bandwagon.
ollie989898
Member
Old set of simba discs would last a life time just need to factor in changing the bearings and discs themselves at some stage depending on wear.
- Location
- Suffolk
no mention of the straw harrows that have a single row of discs at the front (Mzuri and ProForge) on this thread?