T7 new Holland front suspension

del_boy

Member
Location
Herefordshire
Is it down all the time or just in the morning when you 1st get in it?
Sometimes a wire gets rubbed through by the radiator cowling so check around that area.
If the accumulator was gone it would be down on the stops if left overnight but should rise back up once started and moved. As said already check the arm on the sensor
 

Lapwing

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Wiltshire
There is a plug attached to wires going down through the casting in front of the radiators. Sensor cable or somesuch for the front axle. Ratty decided to chew our off flush once; didnt work till we fixed it.
 

GreaseMonkey

Member
Location
Norfolk
Is it down all the time or just in the morning when you 1st get in it?
Sometimes a wire gets rubbed through by the radiator cowling so check around that area.
If the accumulator was gone it would be down on the stops if left overnight but should rise back up once started and moved. As said already check the arm on the sensor

Accumulator wouldn’t cause it to go down over night, the accumulator is purely there to provide the suspension part, the raise, lower and lock valves control where it sits. It is common for them to sit on stops over night, and as you say it should lift itself back up when you drive away, if it’s right down and stuck down, and not moving up I’d say calibration and possible pot issue.
 

Smiffy101

Member
Presume its the same as the older models had a t6080 that an o ring in the solenoid went meant it sank very quickly then another solenoid went and acted very weird
 

Ali_Maxxum

Member
Location
Chepstow, Wales
Those wires that drop down through by the radiator and through the casting are for the potentiometers in the hubs for the auto 4wd/diff lock. Mine rubbed through and I never bothered fixing cos I never use it.
 

miniconnect

Member
Location
Argyll
Reading this tread with interest, as the suspension on our puma is solid, calibration did nothing, and it doesn't sit down on the stops, so I'm going through a few of the other suggestions on here.
Should the shaft in the centre of the potentiometer with the e clip on move along with the arm? The arm on this moves totally independent of the shaft on this.
IMG_20181118_183224_6.jpg
 

del_boy

Member
Location
Herefordshire
It could be the sensor or the linkage as you've shown but the most common cause is accumulator failure. We've had a few go on several from anything from 1500hrs to 4000hrs. A simple test is to take the accumulator off (but make sure you support the front axle from dropping onto the stops before unscrewing the accumulator) if theres more than a dribble of oil comes out I'm afraid its goosed
 

cosmagedon

Member
Location
North Wales
Reading this tread with interest, as the suspension on our puma is solid, calibration did nothing, and it doesn't sit down on the stops, so I'm going through a few of the other suggestions on here.
Should the shaft in the centre of the potentiometer with the e clip on move along with the arm? The arm on this moves totally independent of the shaft on this.View attachment 740418
If it calibrates ok and you can see it going up and down during calibration the sensor and wiring is fine.

The accumulator will be low, flat or popped, easiest way to check is go underneath and above the filter housing, right on top next to the hydraulic pump there's 2 solenoids with rubber caps, turn the rubber cap closest to the front (might be tight if your never done it before so use pliers) and the suspension will drop after a few seconds. Close this again and then on the suspension accumulator just crack the Allen key on top, this has a o ring underneath so your just braking the seal, if you can hear air coming out you still have nitrogen in so the bladder is ok and will just need topping up, if nothing comes out at all you can unscrew it and then you might see oil traces, any oil and it's popped.

If it's a short wheel base there's a double accumulator kit you can buy, but I've made one for my own tractor it's not hard. I've also been messing around with the pressures, I find the book pressures way out!!! They say it should be 25bar but I've found the suspension is 10 times better around 50bar. I've been playing with 2 different pressures in the 2 accumulators, currently at 45 and 55bar, the suspension needs calibrating every time you change the pressure.
 
If it calibrates ok and you can see it going up and down during calibration the sensor and wiring is fine.

The accumulator will be low, flat or popped, easiest way to check is go underneath and above the filter housing, right on top next to the hydraulic pump there's 2 solenoids with rubber caps, turn the rubber cap closest to the front (might be tight if your never done it before so use pliers) and the suspension will drop after a few seconds. Close this again and then on the suspension accumulator just crack the Allen key on top, this has a o ring underneath so your just braking the seal, if you can hear air coming out you still have nitrogen in so the bladder is ok and will just need topping up, if nothing comes out at all you can unscrew it and then you might see oil traces, any oil and it's popped.

If it's a short wheel base there's a double accumulator kit you can buy, but I've made one for my own tractor it's not hard. I've also been messing around with the pressures, I find the book pressures way out!!! They say it should be 25bar but I've found the suspension is 10 times better around 50bar. I've been playing with 2 different pressures in the 2 accumulators, currently at 45 and 55bar, the suspension needs calibrating every time you change the pressure.
did you just copy the original 2 acumulater on one
would be usefull if you could post pics of the additions as my long wheel base t7 has much better suspension than the swb t7
 

2wheels

Member
Location
aberdeenshire
we had an mxm 140 that used to play up on the front axle suspension. it would drop down on to the stops. eventually traced to a check valve with a small filter on it. changed to an upgraded part and no more probs.
 

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