Teach me about growing Peas

[Neddy flanders]

lock of light ironstone land. Being ploughed and pressed now. Not great for winter beans and couldn't get seed.
Linseed/Spring rape are possible but cautious Due to FB

PEAS? Which variety?
Which base fert?
Acid tolerant or not?
Guessing standing ability and pigeons are main problems?
Heavy 750a drill or light tine drill and roll?

 

[Exfarmer]

Rolling is critical, half the time you will be picking them up from about half an inch of the floor.
Do not drill unless conditions are very good as they hate the slightest compaction

 

[Clive]

companion crop with SOSR if you don't want to kill your combine


search "peaola" on here

 

[kc6475]

If your land is free draining in good heart and very level and you have people who like shooting the flying rats then give them a go, we packed up years ago, got fed up with trying to pick them up off the deck, pigeons used to hammer them while they were podding and in a wet time they were useless, we now grow rape, it's now a pain to get it established but profitable crop once you have one. Never grown linseed or Spring rape, we have a few Spring beans but like peas a very hit and miss crop but at least there are no pigeon or combining issues with them.

 

[jonnyjon]

Have tried growing pea and barley and pea and rape mix a couple of times, didn't get a great crop but intend trying again, funny enough, pigeons never touched them

 

[Neddy flanders]

companion crop with SOSR if you don't want to kill your combine


search "peaola" on here

@Clive surely Peola won't work because SOSR will fail due to flea beetle. If I could get SOSR to grow I wouldn't grow peas. Also herbicides needed for peas would take out SOSR.
Low rate barley might be better as pea herbicides wouldn't touch. Would a compounder buy without dressing?

 

[Clive]

@Clive surely Peola won't work because SOSR will fail due to flea beetle. If I could get SOSR to grow I wouldn't grow peas. Also herbicides needed for peas would take out SOSR.
Low rate barley might be better as pea herbicides wouldn't touch. Would a compounder buy without dressing?

Clomazone was the herbicide I used on Peaola and enough to-keep a clean crop

CSFB - fair enough if in a high risk area

How about oats / peas ? could that work maybe ?

 

[Bury the Trash]

@Clive surely Peola won't work because SOSR will fail due to flea beetle. If I could get SOSR to grow I wouldn't grow peas. Also herbicides needed for peas would take out SOSR.
Low rate barley might be better as pea herbicides wouldn't touch. Would a compounder buy without dressing?

forage mixes are done and sold without being dressed.
barley 50/50 mix by weight is worth a go

certainly easier combining even if it goes over

 

[jimcooke770]

combine them 2 days before they are ready
if you wait till they are properly fit , its too late

 

[fudge]

Drill them into perfect conditions with your fingers crossed. Peas hate wet feet. Seedbed far more important than drilling date on heavier land. I stopped growing them because spring beans are far easier/tolerant of wetter conditions and more consistent generally. Flip side is they can do well.

 

[Brisel]

Clomazone was the herbicide I used on Peaola and enough to-keep a clean crop

CSFB - fair enough if in a high risk area

How about oats / peas ? could that work maybe ?

Oats need little excuse to lodge. It's a shame as they have the potential to be a good companion otherwise. The herbicide restrictions make peola unviable here plus I'd be forced into Clearfield in my subsequent winter osr to keep spring osr volunteers at bay. I also have some clubroot infected soils that won't be seeing brassicas again for a long time. Uneven ground, 35' header, a Claydon tine drill and flints are not a good combination where flat crops are concerned!

 

[rhsl]

As previous people have been saying, soil structure and soil condition at drilling very important.
On our sandy clay loam, we always apply fresh potash before drilling.
Picture Below is our Daytona seed crop from this year, its a large blue, they tend to have better standing ability than the human consumption varieties.
Colour very important for large blues so you have to get them before the weather gets to them, not always easy.
The agrochemical armory is decreasing quite quickly so be aware diquat in harvest 2019 will be its last year
This year none was needed due the weather, but some years its essential other wise it will be very difficult to harvest.
Manganese will be needed probably at some point, but we find them relatively easy to grow with one herbicide.

Manganese will be needed probably at some point, but we find them relatively easy to grow with one herbicide, Nirvana usually.
A graminicide maybe needed if wild oats about, two fungicides around flowering with an insecticide.
Some years aphids can be a pain, as they hide in the folded up leaves, so aphox and hallmark type product needed.
If it all goes well you have a great entry for wheat.

Here they are being harvested, no dessicant this year and haulm quite pink.
The heat got to them eventually and they ran out of moisture so yield a bit down, but colour good so will get a good premium.

 

[Bury the Trash]

combine them 2 days before they are ready
if you wait till they are properly fit , its too late

ive often thought swathing might be good way with peas as long didnt rain too much on them in the swath i guess

 

[yellow belly]

I notill beans but late planted can be a problem with late harvest but murders the black grass

Late planting peas appeals as the are earlier harvesting
We have combined beans with the header on the dec every other year

Now with some land more than 7years notill and getting easier every year
Are peas an option on loamier fields instead of late beans
Beans on these fields never do as well as on the out and out heavy for some unknown reason

Got a very good pigeon shooter so they will be no problem

If no ones tried it on heavy land then will have to try some nothing ventured nothing gained

 

[ollie989898]

They don't like wet ground.

They don't like compaction.

They don't like too much rain around flowering.

You must roll them.

Put manganese to them as well, certainly in with the fungicides.

 

[Clive]

Sold a lot of Diquat on Farm Marketplace recently - potato growers stocking up for a few years !

 

[Auckland Blue]

We grow sakura peas here on ragdale, hanslope, series clays. we plough early and as dry as possible and level off with a press. If the land greens up in the autumn then we spray of with robust rate of glypho and then leave till the spring. Will spray again before drilling with glypho if needs be and use wheeling's for tramlines in the crop. Will drill when we feel land has dried out enough to take a wheel with the least amount of compaction (tricky) we are prepared to hold out until the middle or even last week in April if necessary but we run the risk of running into spring drought going later. Keen eye on weather forecast and gut feeling come into play here. Drill straight into plough with KV tine seeder if possible, move land with K harrow as a last resort. Seed rate is usually 330kg per hectare treated with thiram dressing. Roll when land has haseled off. Nirvana plus clomate pre em. pyrethroid for pea and bean weevil if severe notching occurs. 1 possibly 2 flowering fungicides depending on weather and an insecticide for pea moth if thresholds are reached. liquid manganese added to the fungicide applications. watch out for pea aphid. pea harvest for us takes priority over wheat. will desiccate if uneven or weedy if not like this year cut direct. Pea moisture is usually 18.5% but this ensures good colour. We then dress them and dry them gently in a continuous flow dryer, get them to hot and they split better to run them over twice. try and keep their time in chain and flight conveyers to a minimum, again they will split
Just the way we grow peas here. Seems to work for us but not for everybody. Good luck!

 

[Bury the Trash]

wow that seems like a lot of seed.

never used more than 2cwt / acre here 250kg/ha

 

[Auckland Blue]

yeah it is but on this farm thicker crops stand better for combining and produce more pods. A thin pea crop doesn't seem to compensate by producing more pods like a rape crop or thin wheat would IMO. Home saved seed as well. Wouldn't dream of dropping below 300kg as my seedbeds are far from superfine and establishment is poorer than more traditional pea growing areas.

 

[yellow belly]

We grow sakura peas here on ragdale, hanslope, series clays. we plough early and as dry as possible and level off with a press. If the land greens up in the autumn then we spray of with robust rate of glypho and then leave till the spring. Will spray again before drilling with glypho if needs be and use wheeling's for tramlines in the crop. Will drill when we feel land has dried out enough to take a wheel with the least amount of compaction (tricky) we are prepared to hold out until the middle or even last week in April if necessary but we run the risk of running into spring drought going later. Keen eye on weather forecast and gut feeling come into play here. Drill straight into plough with KV tine seeder if possible, move land with K harrow as a last resort. Seed rate is usually 330kg per hectare treated with thiram dressing. Roll when land has haseled off. Nirvana plus clomate pre em. pyrethroid for pea and bean weevil if severe notching occurs. 1 possibly 2 flowering fungicides depending on weather and an insecticide for pea moth if thresholds are reached. liquid manganese added to the fungicide applications. watch out for pea aphid. pea harvest for us takes priority over wheat. will desiccate if uneven or weedy if not like this year cut direct. Pea moisture is usually 18.5% but this ensures good colour. We then dress them and dry them gently in a continuous flow dryer, get them to hot and they split better to run them over twice. try and keep their time in chain and flight conveyers to a minimum, again they will split
Just the way we grow peas here. Seems to work for us but not for everybody. Good luck!

Without the ploughing I use high seed rates for beans
I Will now have to try some peas notill because if I do not I never will know if it will work