We have just got the engine done on the 20 and putting her back together, now we are putting flywheel back on,theres a little arrow on flywheel and one on the houseing,do we line these up and join the tractor together again,then move onto the injection pump,it has bin over hauled two so not sure about timing it two,we have the manual,but tells you nothing about the flywheel,
Tef 20 timing
- Thread starter y2kf
- Start date
- Location
- Cirencester
I would normally time the whole thing up before the head goes on. I use a dial gauge indicator to find exactly where TDC is of the front piston (this is sometimes slightly out) but yes, the arrow stamped on the flywheel should be in line with the mark, this should be TDC for the front piston (one nearest the waterpump)
Re the pump, I assume you've had the cam chain etc off?? The manual will show you that you need to line all the dots up on the : camshaft gearwheel, crank gearwheel and injector pump gearwheel. the tensioner can be tensioned using a cable tie around the injector pump gearwheel end (this then allows you to fit the cover, you then cut/remove the cable tie)
The manual will tell you where the fuel elements need to be when fitting the pump, the front element I think needs to be fully down (but cant remember as a while since I last did one!!!)
Then I put the head on etc and then do the spill timing, they can be quite fussy re this and there are 2 timings depending on the serial number of the tractor, but this info will be in the manual.
Re spill timing, I use compressed air (at very low pressure) instead of diesel blown in through the injection pump bleed hole, it is then very easy to "hear" the point at which the air stops hissing out, find it much more accurate than using diesel.
I always find when you have a newly re-built engine, especially when the pump and injectors have been done they always sound rather "harsh" and "knocky" I have found that you can fine tune and eliminate this knock sound and improve the slow running considerably by whipping the injector caps off and tweaking the injector blow off pressure (by screwing in/out the injector spring pressure) Doing this by "ear" and you can get them to run like a swiss watch at low speed.
Set up right and they will start in virtually any conditions without heat (obviously if fully rebuilt) Last winter we had a morning of -7c and I went out to see if they would start and all of them started with out heat.
And I would suggest using some decent oil in it, I run 20:50 Castrol in all mine.
Re the pump, I assume you've had the cam chain etc off?? The manual will show you that you need to line all the dots up on the : camshaft gearwheel, crank gearwheel and injector pump gearwheel. the tensioner can be tensioned using a cable tie around the injector pump gearwheel end (this then allows you to fit the cover, you then cut/remove the cable tie)
The manual will tell you where the fuel elements need to be when fitting the pump, the front element I think needs to be fully down (but cant remember as a while since I last did one!!!)
Then I put the head on etc and then do the spill timing, they can be quite fussy re this and there are 2 timings depending on the serial number of the tractor, but this info will be in the manual.
Re spill timing, I use compressed air (at very low pressure) instead of diesel blown in through the injection pump bleed hole, it is then very easy to "hear" the point at which the air stops hissing out, find it much more accurate than using diesel.
I always find when you have a newly re-built engine, especially when the pump and injectors have been done they always sound rather "harsh" and "knocky" I have found that you can fine tune and eliminate this knock sound and improve the slow running considerably by whipping the injector caps off and tweaking the injector blow off pressure (by screwing in/out the injector spring pressure) Doing this by "ear" and you can get them to run like a swiss watch at low speed.
Set up right and they will start in virtually any conditions without heat (obviously if fully rebuilt) Last winter we had a morning of -7c and I went out to see if they would start and all of them started with out heat.
And I would suggest using some decent oil in it, I run 20:50 Castrol in all mine.
That's great help.we sent it off too get done ,they done a poor job,we have too put all the bits on the engine ourselfs,they just had the main block done timing chain and all new bearings and camshaft,we have too put two bungs in the head ourselfs that they couldn't be bordered too do,so we Aline the two arrows up on flywheel and put in injector pump and then the spill test,the manual is not that great of explaining things.
- Location
- Cirencester
What did they do with the cam??? You cant get them new and if you measure the lobes the lift differs markedly from cam to cam as some will have worn more than others, my OCD and a legacy of building race engines!!
You also need to ensure that piston No1 is on the firing stroke, you can work this out by seeing if the pushrods move.
I have found the manual to be very good indeed, it covers everything you need to rebuild it. It is a very simple engine once you get used to them.
Hope you manage to get it all sorted out. Out of interest where are you based?
You also need to ensure that piston No1 is on the firing stroke, you can work this out by seeing if the pushrods move.
I have found the manual to be very good indeed, it covers everything you need to rebuild it. It is a very simple engine once you get used to them.
Hope you manage to get it all sorted out. Out of interest where are you based?
- Location
- Cirencester
There are loads of Fergie nuts in N Ireland, would it not be an idea to get someone who knows what they are doing to give it a once over as you get to doing the cam timing, spill timing etc??
Hi I am trying to do the timing on my Ferguson tef20 but I am not sure which dots line up to what as there is two dots on the camshaft gear. Any advice
- Location
- Cirencester
I cant remember off the top of my head I'm afraid, if I had one in front of me I could do it!
@TrickyT he will have all the official Ferguson stuff on how to do it and will I'm sure be along shortly!
TrickyT
Member
@alfie.jackson000 are you referring to the timing in general of spill timing of the injector pump?
Here is a picture of the timing and I have attached instructions on how to do the spill timing.
Trevor
Here is a picture of the timing and I have attached instructions on how to do the spill timing.
Trevor
- Location
- Cirencester
No, I seem to think it'll be 16 degrees before TDC or whatever the TEF is timed to re spill timing. Not had one apart for a while so all a bit hazy, I always sort out TDC with a dial gauge when the heads off, there is a stamped mark on the flywheel but not a lot of use if the backend is on.
You can determine where TDC is roughly by finding out how many degrees before TDC the hole in the flywheel is, lock it, put a cam timing disc on the front pulley with a pointer then rotate the crank forward the correct amount of degrees (obviously after taking the locking pin out the flywheel)
if that makes sense??
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- disc