Greenbeast
Member
- Location
- East Sussex
Do you want any constructive criticism?
yes, although i am pleased. I know there is still work to be done on my methods.
It's better than the last lot done by a contractor, at least
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Do you want any constructive criticism?
On the whole its not too bad, seen people pay for a lot worse. Things to think about.My best attempt yet and i have improvements to make next time. My netting is not properly taught unfortunately, but is sufficient.
I've been offered the loan of a gripple tool, so the next lot will be done with gripples
On the whole its not too bad, seen people pay for a lot worse. Things to think about.
Check height of strut. Measure the nett so you strut between wires rather than wire going over the top of the strut.
Ground looks fairly sandy?(or just dry) so better to have a bigger strut block. (Not just a fence post.) If you can't drive it down deep, dig it across like a T. Doesn't need to be too deep but does want to be a tight fit.
Swap the bottom hinge on the gate round not the top, as the top should be the bolted one and carries the weight.
And get that strainers in deeper, even if you have to dig it in. If ground is seriously dry, auger your hole and leave it full of water over night to give it time to soak in before knocking with the post driver.
I thinl it looks tidy. And just wondering is that the contractors work in the background.
I like to see the foot of the stay under in thr ground there are people chap in a post and tie with wire so full marks for that
Every fencing job you learn something new. Take on board what you learn and remember at the end of the day as long as fence keeps in stock thats all that matters.
There is no right or wrong way in this job as long as end result is right. :
I know tepapa does certain things different to me and vice versa but at end of day terrain and ground conditions mean things are done differently regionally.
I think that's what happens when you cut a notch out of a strainer in a different direction to your fence line, and then just think "f**k it, I'll just nail the strut on and no one will notice"...What is even going on in the second picture?
Afraid so.Dis they pay for that
Needed to fence off 200m of a field in Ireland, so this is my first ever fencing effort. Used a post knocker and by the end of the 4 days was somewhat knackered & my chest ached...
Reasonably happy with the result and its kept the sheep out.
How do the pro s tighten ryelock netting? If it was a long stretch do you roll out from each strainer and meet in the middle? Then tighten it there so its strained from both strainers?
How does a quick fencer work? Do you tie it to 1st strainer drive to the next and hammer the staples in hard to hold it??
With the quick fencer you tie onto the strainer then pull it out along the fence line past the next strainer then tension and hard staple, not to hard or you can snap the wire. Doing this you risk the strainer that you have just stapled to moving when you let off the tension therefore letting the wire slacken slightly. The key is to have good long strainers and strong struts.This is my understanding and what I will be doing from now on
I doubt they hard staple to hold.
But I too have wondered about the quickfencer
Bodge it and scarper doing fencing nowView attachment 586780View attachment 586782
Another couple spotted today on someone's recent deer fence. I could have gone on but customer might have started wondering why I kept stopping the tractor to get out laughing and take photos...