The Fencing Picture Thread

tepapa

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North Wales
My best attempt yet and i have improvements to make next time. My netting is not properly taught unfortunately, but is sufficient.
I've been offered the loan of a gripple tool, so the next lot will be done with gripples

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On the whole its not too bad, seen people pay for a lot worse. Things to think about.
Check height of strut. Measure the nett so you strut between wires rather than wire going over the top of the strut.
Ground looks fairly sandy?(or just dry) so better to have a bigger strut block. (Not just a fence post.) If you can't drive it down deep, dig it across like a T. Doesn't need to be too deep but does want to be a tight fit.
Swap the bottom hinge on the gate round not the top, as the top should be the bolted one and carries the weight.
And get that strainers in deeper, even if you have to dig it in. If ground is seriously dry, auger your hole and leave it full of water over night to give it time to soak in before knocking with the post driver.
 

Greenbeast

Member
Location
East Sussex
On the whole its not too bad, seen people pay for a lot worse. Things to think about.
Check height of strut. Measure the nett so you strut between wires rather than wire going over the top of the strut.
Ground looks fairly sandy?(or just dry) so better to have a bigger strut block. (Not just a fence post.) If you can't drive it down deep, dig it across like a T. Doesn't need to be too deep but does want to be a tight fit.
Swap the bottom hinge on the gate round not the top, as the top should be the bolted one and carries the weight.
And get that strainers in deeper, even if you have to dig it in. If ground is seriously dry, auger your hole and leave it full of water over night to give it time to soak in before knocking with the post driver.

Thanks, yes i just twigged this evening when having a little look round that i could have put my struts 50mm lower to not interfere with the netting.
It's dry/hard clay here right now, the matching strainer the other end i augered and got further in, will continue along with that. Have wondered about soaking holes in the past.
Fair enough about the hinge pins, point taken.
 

tepapa

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North Wales
Water in holes makes a massive difference but takes time to work, not good when your a contractor only there for a day but on your own place you can plan your work. You can't compact dry soil which is what you are trying to do whilst post knocking.
Trouble with dry hard clay is that in deepest winter it becomes wet sticky clay and posts will move, you just can't win, but where the depth of strainer helps.
 

Willie adie

Member
Location
Aberdeenshire
I thinl it looks tidy. And just wondering is that the contractors work in the background.
I like to see the foot of the stay under in thr ground there are people chap in a post and tie with wire so full marks for that
Every fencing job you learn something new. Take on board what you learn and remember at the end of the day as long as fence keeps in stock thats all that matters.
There is no right or wrong way in this job as long as end result is right. :
I know tepapa does certain things different to me and vice versa but at end of day terrain and ground conditions mean things are done differently regionally.
 

Greenbeast

Member
Location
East Sussex
I thinl it looks tidy. And just wondering is that the contractors work in the background.
I like to see the foot of the stay under in thr ground there are people chap in a post and tie with wire so full marks for that
Every fencing job you learn something new. Take on board what you learn and remember at the end of the day as long as fence keeps in stock thats all that matters.
There is no right or wrong way in this job as long as end result is right. :
I know tepapa does certain things different to me and vice versa but at end of day terrain and ground conditions mean things are done differently regionally.

It is indeed contractor work in the background. No, or little tying off, mostly just double stapled. The struts have no foot blocks (I can tell because the pigs have dug far enough down at one corner)
I do learn and advance my techniques at each attempt. I enjoy learning and improving.
 

Puff

Member
Needed to fence off 200m of a field in Ireland, so this is my first ever fencing effort. Used a post knocker and by the end of the 4 days was somewhat knackered & my chest ached...

Reasonably happy with the result and its kept the sheep out.

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IMG_3907.JPG


IMG_3915.JPG
 

Dave6170

Member
How do the pro s tighten ryelock netting? If it was a long stretch do you roll out from each strainer and meet in the middle? Then tighten it there so its strained from both strainers?
How does a quick fencer work? Do you tie it to 1st strainer drive to the next and hammer the staples in hard to hold it??
 

Jhabc

Member
Needed to fence off 200m of a field in Ireland, so this is my first ever fencing effort. Used a post knocker and by the end of the 4 days was somewhat knackered & my chest ached...

Reasonably happy with the result and its kept the sheep out.

IMG_3881.JPG


IMG_3882.JPG


IMG_3883.JPG


IMG_3901.JPG


IMG_3907.JPG


IMG_3915.JPG

You should be very happy with the results. I would have happily knocked the posts in for you with a toffee hammer just to look at such stunning scenery!
 

Greenbeast

Member
Location
East Sussex
How do the pro s tighten ryelock netting? If it was a long stretch do you roll out from each strainer and meet in the middle? Then tighten it there so its strained from both strainers?

This is my understanding and what I will be doing from now on

How does a quick fencer work? Do you tie it to 1st strainer drive to the next and hammer the staples in hard to hold it??

I doubt they hard staple to hold.
But I too have wondered about the quickfencer
 

ARW

Member
Location
Yorkshire
This is my understanding and what I will be doing from now on



I doubt they hard staple to hold.
But I too have wondered about the quickfencer
With the quick fencer you tie onto the strainer then pull it out along the fence line past the next strainer then tension and hard staple, not to hard or you can snap the wire. Doing this you risk the strainer that you have just stapled to moving when you let off the tension therefore letting the wire slacken slightly. The key is to have good long strainers and strong struts.
The pro way is to pull into the centre of the fence and join.
We do it either way depending on the fence and conditions
 

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quote: “Red Tractor has confirmed it is dropping plans to launch its green farming assurance standard in April“

read the TFF thread here: https://thefarmingforum.co.uk/index.php?threads/gfc-was-to-go-ahead-now-not-going-ahead.405234/
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