The Fencing Picture Thread

Erik9831

Member
Paaltjes.jpg
Paaltjes2.jpg
 

Jabennett

New Member
Hi all. So I've recently purchased a second hand vector contractors machine. Got a fair bit of fencing at home to do, and being in north wales the ground is rocky.

Never really had much luck with fencing in the past, tried and still got two protech knockers for the digger.

Just done my first run of fencing. Not massive by any stretch but the vector machine was making life a dream.

Struggling with the wire side of things. Seems to take me ages to do. Anyone got any tips?

Will post some pictures tomorrow or my work. Always happy for feedback
 

Greenbeast

Member
Location
East Sussex
Struggling with the wire side of things. Seems to take me ages to do. Anyone got any tips?


What do you find is causing the time delay? I don't have any great experience or expertise but have freshly gone through the early days of all sorts of mistakes and faffing about, so might still offer you some tips, possibly.
 

Jabennett

New Member
@Greenbeast Hi mate. Suppose it's just down to in-experience but stuff like knowing the height to put bottom and top barb too then height for the netting. Height to have the post too.

Been tying the end off too, with high tensile wire. Man they make it look like copper wire in videos

@ShooTa thanks mate. Lived here for about 8 years now. Just been putting off the major fencing doing little repairs ‍♂️
 

Jabennett

New Member
Had a bit of a nightmare today. So haven't got much done. Didn't believe my friend when he said you can get a rock spike stuck. Had to find out the hard way... doh!!

Here's my work from yesterday

The picture of the fencing tied off, one strand snapped as I was doing it, not sure what to do with it. I have nailed them as I strained the wire from that side. Yet to figure out how to strain and tie off, without nails
 

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Had a bit of a nightmare today. So haven't got much done. Didn't believe my friend when he said you can get a rock spike stuck. Had to find out the hard way... doh!!

Here's my work from yesterday

The picture of the fencing tied off, one strand snapped as I was doing it, not sure what to do with it. I have nailed them as I strained the wire from that side. Yet to figure out how to strain and tie off, without nails
Wouldnt hang gates from strainer posts, gates swing round will slacked posts then wire will be slack
 

Greenbeast

Member
Location
East Sussex
@Greenbeast Hi mate. Suppose it's just down to in-experience but stuff like knowing the height to put bottom and top barb too then height for the netting. Height to have the post too.

Been tying the end off too, with high tensile wire. Man they make it look like copper wire in videos Ha ha yeah i know!

In terms of heights, standard stock net is 800mm off the ground (if you can get it snug down to the earth), the top gap will be about 150mm so i space my top line 150mm above that, looks about right and your fence is then ~950mm off the ground.
So for my intermediate posts i tend to knock them in leaving 1000mm above ground and typically go a bit higher with strainers, although admittedly the extra height doesn't do anything.
For struts i learn to notch in at a height that will mean all the wires have a clear path round the strainer when you come to that stage. Learnt my mistake on one job and the next one adjusted.

I personally have switched to plain wire (at the top) over barb as the barb causes me nothing but bother during install and forever and does not help with pigs. I do sometimes put in a barb bottom wire in an attempt to prevent nosing under if the electric is down for a while.

In terms of tying, i've done a bit but honestly have just switched to gripple fittings, the tees don't need a tool and you then avoid the need to tie off at the ends. the main gripple fittings do need a tool but the Gripple Torq tool can be had for £58 on screwfix. With the tool and fittings you can join and tension your stock net with ease. Yes they are not cheap, certainly not as cheap as free tie/knot. But are quick, effective and tidy, and can be released and re-tensioned later!
 

wr.

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Breconshire
Had a bit of a nightmare today. So haven't got much done. Didn't believe my friend when he said you can get a rock spike stuck. Had to find out the hard way... doh!!

Here's my work from yesterday

The picture of the fencing tied off, one strand snapped as I was doing it, not sure what to do with it. I have nailed them as I strained the wire from that side. Yet to figure out how to strain and tie off, without nails

Looks like a telephone post strainer so be sure to cap it or it'll rot down the middle.

@Big_Alan Very tidy work. Pity about the storm damage.
 

tepapa

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North Wales
In terms of heights, standard stock net is 800mm off the ground (if you can get it snug down to the earth), the top gap will be about 150mm so i space my top line 150mm above that, looks about right and your fence is then ~950mm off the ground.
So for my intermediate posts i tend to knock them in leaving 1000mm above ground and typically go a bit higher with strainers, although admittedly the extra height doesn't do anything.
For struts i learn to notch in at a height that will mean all the wires have a clear path round the strainer when you come to that stage. Learnt my mistake on one job and the next one adjusted.

I personally have switched to plain wire (at the top) over barb as the barb causes me nothing but bother during install and forever and does not help with pigs. I do sometimes put in a barb bottom wire in an attempt to prevent nosing under if the electric is down for a while.

In terms of tying, i've done a bit but honestly have just switched to gripple fittings, the tees don't need a tool and you then avoid the need to tie off at the ends. the main gripple fittings do need a tool but the Gripple Torq tool can be had for £58 on screwfix. With the tool and fittings you can join and tension your stock net with ease. Yes they are not cheap, certainly not as cheap as free tie/knot. But are quick, effective and tidy, and can be released and re-tensioned later!
If you don't mind I'll just correct you on a few points as your spec is for pigs and not the standard for beef and sheep.
Stock netting is 800mm high but for sheep and cattle you would put a line wire below the netting, so there would be a gap below the netting of 100mm with a plain/barb wire within that 100mm. It helps stop the netting getting pulled down into the grass which will exptend its life span and is also used to fill hollows below the netting.

Fence post height is also usually between 110cm or even 120cm depending if for sheep or cattle.

Hope you don't mind me adding that.
 

Greenbeast

Member
Location
East Sussex
If you don't mind I'll just correct you on a few points as your spec is for pigs and not the standard for beef and sheep.
Stock netting is 800mm high but for sheep and cattle you would put a line wire below the netting, so there would be a gap below the netting of 100mm with a plain/barb wire within that 100mm. It helps stop the netting getting pulled down into the grass which will exptend its life span and is also used to fill hollows below the netting.

Fence post height is also usually between 110cm or even 120cm depending if for sheep or cattle.

Hope you don't mind me adding that.

Yeah i only have the one species to fence for and even then perhaps not in the most commonly used fashion.

:)
 

tepapa

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North Wales
Had a bit of a nightmare today. So haven't got much done. Didn't believe my friend when he said you can get a rock spike stuck. Had to find out the hard way... doh!!

Here's my work from yesterday

The picture of the fencing tied off, one strand snapped as I was doing it, not sure what to do with it. I have nailed them as I strained the wire from that side. Yet to figure out how to strain and tie off, without nails
You asked for criticism so here's my two pence worth. Please don't be offended, its just my opinion.

Firstly short runs like that are awkward to get tight so don't worry too much, its probably the only time that hard stapling or gripples can be used without them being frowned upon.

Whats more distressing is using fence posts as struts and strut blocks. Always use proper materials even if it's only 10metres, you get complacent and then think it'll be alright when you get on bigger pulls and all of a sudden the gate won't shut because the strainers moved. I don't care if you hang the gate of the strainer as long as it is strutted properly, just don't and hit the post with a tractor and ruin the fence.
Thirdly, lower the height of the strut even with longer struts, go to the third or forth gap down in the netting, circa half way up the post. (Normal height posts not gate posts). It will reduce the lift on the strainer and use a bigger block to strut against a fence post isn't big enough.

Anyway when you get the spike stuck next time hit it with a sledge hammer, whilst trying to lift it and they pop out eventually.
 

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