The Fencing Picture Thread

[Mursal]

As an outsider to fencing, when you say creosote, how do you know its done proper?
Maybe cut one in 100, just to see inside or what?

 

[ARW]

As an outsider to fencing, when you say creosote, how do you know its done proper?
Maybe cut one in 100, just to see inside or what?

You know it’s proper creosote as it burns your skin!
Creosote may be the most expensive to pay for but is the cheapest fence to keep your stock in.
For example a standard 1000 metre tantalised fence could cost £4.50 a metre erected over a 10 year life span will be around 45pence a metre per year + repairs and tearing it out for the next one.
1000 metres of Creosoted could cost £7.30 but will last 40 years and cost you 18 pence per metre per year + repairs

 

[Willie adie]

 

[J428TGS]

sorry to ask but never seen up here, whats the reason for the line wire at mid height on the mesh

 

[Willie adie]

i put it on back of the rylock k
just gives a bit more support i do this as standard unless asked not to

 

[Timbersupplier]

anyone got any suggestions where I can buy a couple of pallets of decent stakes? local store is Mole Valley and last 250 from them put in the ground less than 20months ago are snapping off now? think theyre made of Balsa wood.
just not sure who will deliver 2 pallet loads? to Midlands.

Ring the suppliers direct

 

[Bury the Trash]

You know it’s proper creosote as it burns your skin!
Creosote may be the most expensive to pay for but is the cheapest fence to keep your stock in.
For example a standard 1000 metre tantalised fence could cost £4.50 a metre erected over a 10 year life span will be around 45pence a metre per year + repairs and tearing it out for the next one.
1000 metres of Creosoted could cost £7.30 but will last 40 years and cost you 18 pence per metre per year + repairs

yeah but you forget to mention that can put creosote on with a paint brush but it dont last long

even creo needs to good pressure treatment into well dried wood i wonder how they do electric/telegraph poles be good to see the process ........

 

[Mursal]

If you skip over to U-Tube someone's bound to have the video

 

[pine_guy]

View attachment 747102 View attachment 747104 View attachment 747106

Do the strainers not pivot on that low strut and lift out the ground?

 

[Timbersupplier]

yeah but you forget to mention that can put creosote on with a paint brush but it dont last long

even creo needs to good pressure treatment into well dried wood i wonder how they do electric/telegraph poles be good to see the process ........

Please you are always welcome at Calders and Grandidge and we can show you how we treat, Poles and fencing often use the same charge so both are treated the same. Our website shows more details.

 

[Macsky]

yeah but you forget to mention that can put creosote on with a paint brush but it dont last long

even creo needs to good pressure treatment into well dried wood i wonder how they do electric/telegraph poles be good to see the process ........

I was shown a forestry journal from 1903 or thereabouts that had trial results from various ways of treating fencing timber with creosote. The timber treated was of different moisture content and subjected to submersion for a period of time, submersion in boiling creosote and pressure treatment or something along these lines.

What consistently made the biggest difference across all the methods was the moisture content of the timber before hand, the drier the better. Stands to reason really, you can’t force liquid into pore spaces that are already saturated.

 

[Willie adie]

Do the strainers not pivot on that low strut and lift out the ground?

general consensus is long and low

 

[Macsky]

general consensus is long and low

Just to throw a spanner in the works, I reckon long is good, less angle = less upwards force, but I don’t think going to low is an advantage at all. Imagine if you to try and keep a post upright yourself, where do you get the most purchase on it, the top or the bottom?

I reckon the stay is better in the top half of the strainer at least, probably 2/3 the way up.

 

[Timbersupplier]

You need to ensure the timber is redwood only and under 28% moisture content so good penetration can occur. All creosote needs to be heated and put in under pressure of about 115kg/m3 and the process begins. Redwood and moisture content are major factors for this

 

[tepapa]

Just to throw a spanner in the works, I reckon long is good, less angle = less upwards force, but I don’t think going to low is an advantage at all. Imagine if you to try and keep a post upright yourself, where do you get the most purchase on it, the top or the bottom?

I reckon the stay is better in the top half of the strainer at least, probably 2/3 the way up.

Half way up is about right, little higher, little lower is ok. Ideally you'd go to the top of the strainer but you need long struts circa 10' (3m) to keep angle low to minimise lifting and jacking out the strainer.

 

[tepapa]

 

[Willie adie]

Half way up is about right, little higher, little lower is ok. Ideally you'd go to the top of the strainer but you need long struts circa 10' (3m) to keep angle low to minimise lifting and jacking out the strainer.

tepapa knows my work and im pretty sure im spot on with the position of stay ive included more pics of my stays
remember to the bottom of stay is 12 -18 inch below ground level too

 

[Macsky]

tepapa knows my work and im pretty sure im spot on with the position of stay ive included more pics of my stays
remember to the bottom of stay is 12 -18 inch below ground level tooView attachment 753174 View attachment 753172 View attachment 753172

Looks solid work, but more time than I’m willing to put in.

That’s more like it [emoji23]

 

[Mursal]

Adjustable?

 

[Macsky]

Only joking, usually do something along these lines:

Would be better with longer 4” for the stay assembly but just work with what’s there. Have also invested in a crimp tool so will be replacing the gripples with a crimp, have had gripples fail on the stay assembly.