- Location
- Scottish Borders
@JohnGalway , how did you fix the original wooden stobs into place with all that rock. Rebar looks long lasting! 
The Fencing Picture Thread
- Thread starter Andy26
- Start date
JohnGalway
Member
- Location
- Connemara, Ireland
@JohnGalway , how did you fix the original wooden stobs into place with all that rock. Rebar looks long lasting!
I quarried the stone by hand to build the wall that's now covered in seaweed. I had to build like stone buckets, which I filled with concrete and put a post in the middle. Because of the height difference I then had to build the wall between each bucket to level up under the wire. Of course, had I an SDS drill then I would just have bored the rock and had it much easier
That's 12mm rebar and it's only OK, it will bend, which is why I want something much stronger where the wood posts are. That size rebar is really just to reinforce the fence between the stronger posts. On my other shores weight of water and storms rolling rocks are the issue, but here it's sheer weight of seaweed.
- Location
- Scottish Borders
Well it’s a credit to you. Must be a fair ball ache when mother nature’s trying her best to tear it down all winter !
JohnGalway
Member
- Location
- Connemara, Ireland
Well it’s a credit to you. Must be a fair ball ache when mother nature’s trying her best to tear it down all winter !
Could be worse, in early 2014 we had some bad storms, in another location we lost most of the bottom fence of a parcel of land, plus the soil it was driven into. Yet, a man back the road had it worse, he had very low lying fields with lots of stone walls, he now has an extensive rockery of some acres
I prefer the ballache of a bit of seaweed I'm bit by bit trying to make this work easier. In another place a couple of years back I used concrete. But, instead of setting the posts in concrete like the fence in this thread, I set 4 inch sewer pipes into the concrete. I also set short rebar hooks beside the sewer pipe. That way, I could slide round posts into the sewer pipe, and twist a bit of wire around the rebar which I then stapled to the post. That way, the sea won't lift the post, and the concreted pipe keeps in place. So if the post rots, or a storm breaks it, it's a fast job to repair. In years past that would have meant breaking out concrete, hauling sand and cement etc.
The other boundary fences on the farm will be replaced by concrete or steel as time marches on. I don't mind working, I DO mind working at something that shouldn't need doing.
- Location
- Scottish Borders
Do you utilise the seaweed for the land or stock? My grandfather used to farm next to the coast, and the men used to cart seaweed off the beaches with horse and cart , for the tatties.
And I have to buy garlic seaweed granules for the Wife’s horse from a lad near claregalway .
It’s great stuff ( allegedly!)
And I have to buy garlic seaweed granules for the Wife’s horse from a lad near claregalway .
It’s great stuff ( allegedly!)
JohnGalway
Member
- Location
- Connemara, Ireland
Do you utilise the seaweed for the land or stock? My grandfather used to farm next to the coast, and the men used to cart seaweed off the beaches with horse and cart , for the tatties.
And I have to buy garlic seaweed granules for the Wife’s horse from a lad near claregalway .
It’s great stuff ( allegedly!)
Not as yet, too much other crap to do that's more important. But, I do know other farmers swear by these seaweed feeds. I'm not sure, I'd prefer to breed stock that don't need so many inputs. That said, my sheep spend a lot of time in the shore eating weed in the parcel above.
Below is the wilder more exposed shore. Not much weed here, but lots of heavy weather. When I get thicker steel I'll strengthen this fence.
Y Fan Wen
Member
- Location
- N W Snowdonia
Is that your safety rope, the blue one? I have to use one in some places, usually anchored to the bike.
JohnGalway
Member
- Location
- Connemara, Ireland
It started as a line to get the fence straight-ish. But tbh it get's proper deep at the end there, the fishermen call it "the hole", and seeing as I can't swim and was using a drill where the bit might possibly get stuck... the rope double jobbed that day!
cubby
Member
- Location
- Dumfries and Galloway
Saw this gem today forestry commission fixing fences next to us
- Location
- West Wales
How long does the wire last?
I’ve got some fences that lose some uprights by year 10, nothing left by year 14.
I have some near the cliffs that have been done 3 times since ‘83. Never overtightened so the galv doesn’t crack and leave salt in
JohnGalway
Member
- Location
- Connemara, Ireland
Well some I put up in 2018 is pretty rusty right now, but that's towards the end of the fence that get's well soaked twice a day. I've never really paid that much attention to it, just replaced as & when.
Dave6170
Member
- Location
- Watten, caithness
Can anyone tell how to stop the bash plate sticking to the weight on my chapter?
Just get the post set up square, take the chain of the weight and the bash plate sticks to it on the way up!
Just get the post set up square, take the chain of the weight and the bash plate sticks to it on the way up!
Dave6170
Member
- Location
- Watten, caithness
Tried wd40 and wonder wipes. Doesn't last though
J428TGS
Member
is it grease coming aff the mast?
Dave6170
Member
- Location
- Watten, caithness
Yes. Gets really sticky!
SimonThePieman
Member
- Location
- Worcestershire
Time to be brave and post a few from what I've been doing. I'm learning as I go of course but so far everyone has been pleased with what I've done for them and there have been no unrecoverable cock ups!
This was at a friend's paddock, just shy of 100m in total. It's on 4-5" peeled posts, I used a 3.5" petrol auger to pilot a 3/4 depth hole and then knocked them with the handheld "mankiller"
Then this was a "real" customer who contacted me out of the blue. Had to hand dig all of the posts and backfill with ballast as the ground was so soft it was impossible to tamp up. This is just the gate and a little section by the house, there was about 90 meters all in.
This was at a friend's paddock, just shy of 100m in total. It's on 4-5" peeled posts, I used a 3.5" petrol auger to pilot a 3/4 depth hole and then knocked them with the handheld "mankiller"
Then this was a "real" customer who contacted me out of the blue. Had to hand dig all of the posts and backfill with ballast as the ground was so soft it was impossible to tamp up. This is just the gate and a little section by the house, there was about 90 meters all in.
hutchy143211
Member
- Location
- E. Yorkshire
Hi All,
Know this is a picture thread but thought it might be the best place to ask for some high tensile fencing advice. Finally managed to convince my parents that high tensile wire is the way to go, instead of joining 3/4 rylock nets together for each pull and dispelling the myth that its more expensive. We've already had a go on a small 70m stretch with some cheap netting and barb as a trial and happy enough. We've decided if its worth doing its worth doing well and so have opted for all tornado wire and are going to buy a full set of strainrite clamps, strainers and chains as from the reviews they seem to be good quality and will last. Based on our trial we're going to go for 8/80/22 netting instead of the 15 we'd normally use and are going to try 100m rolls and 250m as well as the standard ht and torus knot (quite interested to see what difference it makes!). From our first trial we've learned a few things, we did use knots and not hard stapling as suggested. My dads rather set on using crimps to join the nets + barb and using gut pulls where possible. Plan is plain line wire, net + 2 barb. My remaining questions are:
- knots for barbed wire, do you join rolls with figure 8s, termination knots at ends and others the same as plain wire? (If not using crimps)
- when should you use certain knots? - mainly tex brown vs speed knots in a gut strain (if not using crimps or for plain?) - i understand figure 8 has too much take up when tensioning wires.
- how do you strain over small ridges? - i know for dips the line wire can help as well as pulling the net down and using post tie backs or something to stop them pulling out.
- What are the main benefits of working with torus wire over the standard ht? - Is it just easier to remove verticals?
Thanks in advance.
Know this is a picture thread but thought it might be the best place to ask for some high tensile fencing advice. Finally managed to convince my parents that high tensile wire is the way to go, instead of joining 3/4 rylock nets together for each pull and dispelling the myth that its more expensive. We've already had a go on a small 70m stretch with some cheap netting and barb as a trial and happy enough. We've decided if its worth doing its worth doing well and so have opted for all tornado wire and are going to buy a full set of strainrite clamps, strainers and chains as from the reviews they seem to be good quality and will last. Based on our trial we're going to go for 8/80/22 netting instead of the 15 we'd normally use and are going to try 100m rolls and 250m as well as the standard ht and torus knot (quite interested to see what difference it makes!). From our first trial we've learned a few things, we did use knots and not hard stapling as suggested. My dads rather set on using crimps to join the nets + barb and using gut pulls where possible. Plan is plain line wire, net + 2 barb. My remaining questions are:
- knots for barbed wire, do you join rolls with figure 8s, termination knots at ends and others the same as plain wire? (If not using crimps)
- when should you use certain knots? - mainly tex brown vs speed knots in a gut strain (if not using crimps or for plain?) - i understand figure 8 has too much take up when tensioning wires.
- how do you strain over small ridges? - i know for dips the line wire can help as well as pulling the net down and using post tie backs or something to stop them pulling out.
- What are the main benefits of working with torus wire over the standard ht? - Is it just easier to remove verticals?
Thanks in advance.
Goggles
Member
- Location
- Hertfordshire
It doesn’t sound like you need much help!!
Torus fence stands up better than hinged net and requires a little less straining. Most stock fence will strain up over small ridges without a problem. HT 8 80 22 will be best for sheep, they can get their heads unstuck themselves.
for barbed wire joins, I just loop and twist. Haven’t had one fail yet. I don’t like to twist barbed too tight as I’ve had the odd strand break in the past.You could crimp tobe on the safe side, I don’t, but it’s only really a speed thing...
We always crimp to join stock net.
figure 8 knot to join plain and always snap the ends off instead of cutting, so it leaves it smooth.
I rarely bother with a bottom plain wire, unless, as you said, you need to fill dips.
Use as bigger roll of wire that you can handle.
Economies of scale. Don’t try and push 300 metre rolls up a steep bank.
Hope this helps a little.
Plenty of others on here will help too....
Torus fence stands up better than hinged net and requires a little less straining. Most stock fence will strain up over small ridges without a problem. HT 8 80 22 will be best for sheep, they can get their heads unstuck themselves.
for barbed wire joins, I just loop and twist. Haven’t had one fail yet. I don’t like to twist barbed too tight as I’ve had the odd strand break in the past.You could crimp tobe on the safe side, I don’t, but it’s only really a speed thing...
We always crimp to join stock net.
figure 8 knot to join plain and always snap the ends off instead of cutting, so it leaves it smooth.
I rarely bother with a bottom plain wire, unless, as you said, you need to fill dips.
Use as bigger roll of wire that you can handle.
Economies of scale. Don’t try and push 300 metre rolls up a steep bank.
Hope this helps a little.
Plenty of others on here will help too....