Thinking of getting an FE35

Vizslaman

Member
Location
Hampshire
Once I get it home and steam cleaned I will get all the details
I have managed to get a copy of the original registration documents so should be able to retain the original registration number.
 

Vizslaman

Member
Location
Hampshire
Well I went ahead and did the deal yesterday,
I got it at what I consider a reasonable price.
The tractor appears to be original, and has been hand painted at some point in it's life.(a part from having an alternator instead of dynamo)
Engine as I said needs the old easy breather and appears to be breathing a little heavy through crankcase breather but I will put it on a bit of rolling for awhile and see what it is like. (It had not been run since Christmas)
Will post more photos in due course..
 

Vizslaman

Member
Location
Hampshire
R19yAIy.jpg
rDjlOT6.jpg


Do those look like original rear light mounts ?
 

Tigger

Member
Location
Worcestershire
The brackets might well be, certainly old repro anyway rather than modern repro, but they probably weren't originally fitted from new, unless you find a grey paint layer underneath the red... ?
Handy having them already fitted anyway and they look in decent condition.
 

Mursal

Member
Bit of work will do it a world of good ........
We'd leave the alternator where it is until the end of the project, then change if you feel the need.
 

Pennine Ploughing

Member
Mixed Farmer
Drop oil out before you use it as moisture can make them appear to breath
Give her some hard graft bring her to her knees
Kill or cure
yeah, and if still not right, and as a last resort, take rubber hose off the inlet manifold,
give it just over half throttle and trickle "VIM" in it, keep doing it slowly, for 10 mins,
then back to hard work
 

Mursal

Member
Few litres of kerosene (over fill it) left in the sump for a few days will loosen all the debris.
Crank on the starter to let it circulate but do not start engine.
 

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
When /if rebuilding, check the head gasket seals on the liners, NOT around them! I know of an engine which had two new sets of liners due to crankcase compression after a rebuild! This had the wrong gasket, and compression was passing down the outside of the slip fit liners, into the sump.
 

MrNoo

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Cirencester
When /if rebuilding, check the head gasket seals on the liners, NOT around them! I know of an engine which had two new sets of liners due to crankcase compression after a rebuild! This had the wrong gasket, and compression was passing down the outside of the slip fit liners, into the sump.
Yes but surely you'd just shim them up using the copper shims supplied in most kits to be flush or a few thou proud of the block face?? The liners certainly dont want to below block face height as they then move up and down ever so slightly with the piston and then the step would break off an allow the rest of the liner down into the crank/sump, that's what the Perkins engine can do, especially using the chrome liners with a very thin lip.
My engineering place said that the best way was to bore the block over size, leave a step at the bottom and press in some new liner blanks and then bore out/hone to size then deck the block and job done, in hindsight I should have done this on my Perkins engine, instead of going to cast liners. The chap said there are some shocking liners about for these engines. I used all Bepco stuff and it seemed to fit very nicely.
 
Yes but surely you'd just shim them up using the copper shims supplied in most kits to be flush or a few thou proud of the block face?? The liners certainly dont want to below block face height as they then move up and down ever so slightly with the piston and then the step would break off an allow the rest of the liner down into the crank/sump, that's what the Perkins engine can do, especially using the chrome liners with a very thin lip.
My engineering place said that the best way was to bore the block over size, leave a step at the bottom and press in some new liner blanks and then bore out/hone to size then deck the block and job done, in hindsight I should have done this on my Perkins engine, instead of going to cast liners. The chap said there are some shocking liners about for these engines. I used all Bepco stuff and it seemed to fit very nicely.
Our engine machining gaffer says the exact same thing
Use oversized liner then bore and hone for a perfect true bore
Fully finished liners are field technology apparently just because every block can be different. Wear-wise!!
 

SFI - What % were you taking out of production?

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  • 100% I’ve had enough of farming!

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Red Tractor drops launch of green farming scheme amid anger from farmers

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As reported in Independent


quote: “Red Tractor has confirmed it is dropping plans to launch its green farming assurance standard in April“

read the TFF thread here: https://thefarmingforum.co.uk/index.php?threads/gfc-was-to-go-ahead-now-not-going-ahead.405234/
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