Thinking of getting an FE35

[Ley253]

Par for the course on most elderly tractors.

 

[Callum Iain]

Shims are used to raise the liner Harry, there by ensuring that the top of the liner is in contact with the gasket or you can just "deck" the block down to the top of the liners. Hence why my machining place said over bore the block, with a step at the bottom, press fit (not slip fit) blank liners in and deck the block face, bore/hone to size, simple!! No chance of any liner movement, no chance of gas leakage and no chance of the liner braking the lip and disappearing down to see Mr Crank!!

Any idea where I may be able to purchase some of these shims for a 23c. They seem hard to come by from the usual suspects. Thanks.

 

[MrNoo]

Any idea where I may be able to purchase some of these shims for a 23c. They seem hard to come by from the usual suspects. Thanks.

Most engine rebuild kits come with them, you can also use the old ones to make the "stand out" correct. I am sure most people would stock them. I tend to use Silverfox tractor spares and Mayhill, I would give them a call.
Have you tried swapping the liners around to see if the liners are slightly different, some times this can get the job done or the other option is to get the block "decked" and then get the steps machined so the standout is the same on all 4 pots. Depends how OCD you want to be about it.
You could of course get the exact dimensions and have a word with an engineering/engine machine shop and see if they can source you some, they may not be MF but they should be able to get some.
I've not done a 23c engine, loads of TEF engines and Perkins 3 pots in my mf35"s

 

[Callum Iain]

Any idea where I may be able to purchase some of these shims for a 23c. They seem hard to come by from the usual suspects. Thanks.

Most engine rebuild kits come with them, you can also use the old ones to make the "stand out" correct. I am sure most people would stock them. I tend to use Silverfox tractor spares and Mayhill, I would give them a call.
Have you tried swapping the liners around to see if the liners are slightly different, some times this can get the job done or the other option is to get the block "decked" and then get the steps machined so the standout is the same on all 4 pots. Depends how OCD you want to be about it.
You could of course get the exact dimensions and have a word with an engineering/engine machine shop and see if they can source you some, they may not be MF but they should be able to get some.
I've not done a 23c engine, loads of TEF engines and Perkins 3 pots in my mf35"s

I'm fitting new liners and there were no shims on it when I stripped it. I have a donor engine but it had no shims either. I just noticed a burn on the head gasket between two pots when I removed it so I'm just playing safe.

 

[Vizslaman]

You can deck the block and then get the liner seats recut too return to the original tolerances

 

[MrNoo]

I'm fitting new liners and there were no shims on it when I stripped it. I have a donor engine but it had no shims either. I just noticed a burn on the head gasket between two pots when I removed it so I'm just playing safe.

Maybe the 23c engine doesnt have shims then, as I said I have not done one although done plenty of TEF engines, these certainly do have a shim/copper ring but as said above get the block decked. Shouldnt need much off it, if they do take a lot off it for whatever reason, do ensure you check the piston hight relative to deck hight.
It all involves a lot of very careful measuring, some machining and then careful assembly, very satisfying once it's all done right.

 

[REStracTORATION]

Fitted some shims in mine
My engine place made me some,

 

[Vizslaman]

IMHO
As previously stated if you need to get the block decked and then liner recesses recut, you will also need to get piston height checked and if needed they will also need machining.
This would mean reassembling the engine checking piston heights and then removing and machining the top of the pistons. (Not cheap but the best way to ensure it is right)
It may be that you could just machine the corresponding amount off the piston as was removed from the block but I strongly recommend you check piston height on re-assembly