Timber frame house

[mo!]

Does the insulation not just go in the cavity with block build?

It can do. Doesn't have to.

 

[multi power]

It can do. Doesn't have to.

If it goes in cavity then are the walls not still the same thickness as timber frame,?

 

[del_boy]

There is usually an air gap between the insulation and the outer block/ brick.
We put in 60mm of insulation leaving a 40mm air gap

 

[multi power]

There is usually an air gap between the insulation and the outer block/ brick.
We put in 60mm of insulation leaving a 40mm air gap

One air gap or 2 ? I remember someone told me the insulation should never ever touch the blocks, but now they blow it into older non insulated cavity walls

 

[Forever Fendt]

There is usually an air gap between the insulation and the outer block/ brick.
We put in 60mm of insulation leaving a 40mm air gap

If thats a house it must be pushing 8 years ago as building regs and EPC have changed so much of late

 

[S J H]

I think the energy man reckoned we needed either 125mm of Rock wool of 100mm of celotex in the walls, floor was 100mm of celotex, and roof was 300mm of wool.

I think I'll end up putting more in the floor and celotex in the roof space, but that depends on if we're in the position to build into the roof next year.

Heating is by an air source heat pump, probably 1 woodburner downstairs and an electric aga.

 

[S J H]

Dot and dab the boards on block walls ,make sure the block layers fill the joints fully as this can cause air leeks when you come to do the air test for building regs

I know when I've asked before, the plasterer had always said to dot and dab, I've just never liked the idea of having a void. I expect it's a better finish, especially if we end up with spotlights.

 

[Forever Fendt]

I know when I've asked before, the plasterer had always said to dot and dab, I've just never liked the idea of having a void. I expect it's a better finish, especially if we end up with spotlights.

With the dot and dab make sure you have tapered edge boards and tape and skim joints also better for the first fix as things don't need choping in wall as deep

 

[del_boy]

If thats a house it must be pushing 8 years ago as building regs and EPC have changed so much of late

Has just been built. Builder inspector passed everything at every stage. We had a 100mm inner thermalit block, 60mm insulation 40mm air gap then a 100mm solid block. 100mm cavity. The original plan was a 50mm insulation and a 50mm air gap in the cavity but the building inspector let us up the insulation to 60mm and a 40mm air gap. If i wanted any thicker insulation we would have needed to increase the cavity width .

 

[spikeislander]

I think the energy man reckoned we needed either 125mm of Rock wool of 100mm of celotex in the walls, floor was 100mm of celotex, and roof was 300mm of wool.

I think I'll end up putting more in the floor and celotex in the roof space, but that depends on if we're in the position to build into the roof next year.

Heating is by an air source heat pump, probably 1 woodburner downstairs and an electric aga.

We looked at electric AGA's hope your sitting down best part of £14-15 k ! Gone for a rangemaster which does much more for much less

 

[Forever Fendt]

Has just been built. Builder inspector passed everything at every stage. We had a 100mm inner thermalit block, 60mm insulation 40mm air gap then a 100mm solid block. 100mm cavity. The original plan was a 50mm insulation and a 50mm air gap in the cavity but the building inspector let us up the insulation to 60mm and a 40mm air gap. If i wanted any thicker insulation we would have needed to increase the cavity width .

do you know the make and the u value of the insulation you have used as it looks like we have got to have a 150 cavity and would like to reduce it back to 100, how long have your plans been approved for ?

 

[del_boy]

Im not sure but it was celotex make. The slabs were 600mm x 1200mm and 60mm thick. If we wanted thicker insulation it meant a wider footing to accommodate the wider cavity. I wanted to go to 75mm but wouldn't let us on a 100mm cavity

 

[S J H]

We looked at electric AGA's hope your sitting down best part of £14-15 k ! Gone for a rangemaster which does much more for much less

I found refurbished ones on eBay I don't know if they'd be any good, but the chap that services the one at home converts them, so I'll have a word.

I've got to save £8k so I can buy the fridge to match

 

[Forever Fendt]

Im not sure but it was celotex make. The slabs were 600mm x 1200mm and 60mm thick. If we wanted thicker insulation it meant a wider footing to accommodate the wider cavity. I wanted to go to 75mm but wouldn't let us on a 100mm cavity

i think your floor and roof insulation will be thicker as a trade off then if its celotex board @60mm thick and your building regs approved after April 2014

 

[multi power]

I know when I've asked before, the plasterer had always said to dot and dab, I've just never liked the idea of having a void. I expect it's a better finish, especially if we end up with spotlights.

What's the reason for plaster board on the walls?

 

[Hilly]

In the eighties i lived in a timber frame Scandinavian home for 3 years, it had 18" insulating under floor walls and ceiling, it had tripe glazing and fancy doors with levers that sealed when closed, great house that took little to no heating !! this country is slo far behind with new buildings its unreal.

 

[Hilly]

We looked at electric AGA's hope your sitting down best part of £14-15 k ! Gone for a rangemaster which does much more for much less

Yup, we have Rangemaster, made by aga and better than aga imo.

 

[del_boy]

i think your floor and roof insulation will be thicker as a trade off then if its celotex board @60mm thick and your building regs approved after April 2014

We've got 100mm of celotex in the floor and theres 400mm of loft roll in the roof space. All the stud walling is also insulated with 85mm of insulation/sound barrier
I cant remember but i think we had planning in 2014 but we didnt start until 2015

 

[mo!]

What's the reason for plaster board on the walls?

To give a smooth finish that will take paint or wallpaper. What alternative would you have?

 

[multi power]

To give a smooth finish that will take paint or wallpaper. What alternative would you have?

Skim the walls