Toe in or Toe Out?

[Tonym]

Don't forget to check the camber, castor and bump steer while you're at it!!!!

If we are going to get this serious about the steering geometry I would think the two most important aspects are toe in and castor. Camber is not going to help unless you want to go round the bends faster keeping full tyre contact with the soil and you won't get bump steer as you don't have any suspension to cause it.
Castor gives the steering its self centering and stops wander at the expense of making the steering heavier so could be a very important but alas is not adjustable on a tractor.
Perhaps a smear of lock tight or a lock nut on the nut on the steering wheel would help!

 

[rick_vandal]

Castor makes the wheels go on full lock when reversing.

 

[arcobob]

Castor makes the wheels go on full lock when reversing.

Castor angle on most tractors is neutral when manufactured, in other words the king pins are vertical when viewed from the side. This may change slightly as the axle pivot pin wears or the relationship between size of front and rear tyres/wheels is altered.

 

[Tonym]

Castor angle on most tractors is neutral when manufactured, in other words the king pins are vertical when viewed from the side. This may change slightly as the axle pivot pin wears or the relationship between size of front and rear tyres/wheels is altered.

Correct. That is why you get wheel wobble on the road and can't understand why as the track rod ends and steering box look good. The wear in the pivot alters the castor angle to a negative value and you lose the self centring of the steering inducing the wobble.

 

[rick_vandal]

Castor on a new MF35 is a full 5º, (camber is 2º) and without the later luxury of power assisted steering, it could take your thumb off during a panic reverse turn.