Triton direct seed drill

must have improved since the one i looked at which was very poor - to be fair that was a couple years ago now

19k is a lot of money for a 3m frame witn a few tines hanging off it IMO can’t compare directly to other 3m drills as you need a hopper on top of the price

what would a basic dpec 3m claydon cost these days ?
It was £15,950.

I have no idea but I bet a 3m claydon is £35k.
 

Deutzdx3

Member
it wold be interesting to see the patent - it's notorious hard (and crazy expensive) to protect a tine design or a drilling principle, juts ask Jeff Claydon or John Baker !

If it works well and there is a market it will get copied so easier to just sell them so no-one bothers doing so

As @Alistair Nelson says the frames are horribly made, sh!t welding and very "blacksmith" frame design on the one I saw and VERY expensive for what it is, you could get a 3m frame like that built for very little and to a MUCH higher standard by most local fabricators

The tine is the good bit and they could seriously capitalise on that if they sold it to mainstream volume drill manufactures to fit ........ that's what i would do if it was my design anyway
Second that, look at the copies of Tim howard leg by every one and sumo legs by every one too. I was told it's nearly impossible to stop some one copying a particular leg design successfully or with out incurring huge expense.
 

Fuzzy

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Bedfordshire
Thanks. What make and exact size of topper and drill please?
Orsi 2800 flail and the drill is my own 3.5m using 3" bougault(claydon) points. I would idealy like a wider mower but getting about on roads is a big issue.... at 2.8m (or3m transpot width) it is plenty wide enough. So for the small area i drilled(15acres) i simply shut off a couple of outlets on the drill. My plan for the spring is to cut the cover crops on a frost if possible using the orsi on the front and a fully offest kuhn on the back. As i feel the our ground needs to dry before drilling.
 

Deutzdx3

Member
The drills are made well. Welds all good and on par with any mainstream manufacturer. I wouldn’t of bought it if it was poorly made. And it’s far cheaper than anything else on the market.
They maybe welded up ok but the design is not well thought out at all. The rear upright that the wheel adjuster anchors off, there is no support for that what so ever. Maybe with the new people making it there will be some design adjustments.
 

Jackall

Member
As I’ve said before I think the tine and foot can work, my problem is the frame. It’s similar to a pig tail without the tines. Anything over a couple of metres in my opionion wouldn’t get the accuracy of depth for it to keep it at an even depth on my fairly even level land for the tines to divert the blackgrass seed up or down. I still think I the legs and foot was sold seperatly the could be a market to retro fit to existing or home fabrication to uses who have their own designs.
 
As I’ve said before I think the tine and foot can work, my problem is the frame. It’s similar to a pig tail without the tines. Anything over a couple of metres in my opionion wouldn’t get the accuracy of depth for it to keep it at an even depth on my fairly even level land for the tines to divert the blackgrass seed up or down. I still think I the legs and foot was sold seperatly the could be a market to retro fit to existing or home fabrication to uses who have their own designs.
What frame do you think would work then?
 

Jackall

Member
If the leg and the foot need to be depth critical to keep b/g below the area the seed is planted to stop germination I would think some type of contour frame or sub frame for the tine/ seeder. As I have said I think the principal may be good but but it could do with some refining with manufacturing and marketing. I have said before that you have given a fair review of the drill. I hope what I have said is taken as a criticism.
 
I should say. Not as criticism.
Not at all. I’m genuinely interested in what people think about it. I can’t comment on the grass seed thing yet as it only came in Feb. However I’ve put some cover crop into our worst Ryegrass field 4 weeks ago so will be watching that closely and today started to put a cover into a field that historically had Blackgrass in places. These both will be followed with spring wheat.

The blackgrass field had spring wheat this last harvest drilled by the Triton and we didn’t see any blackgrass other than in a couple of sprayer auto on/off misses by telegraph poles. So I’m on the fence with that presently but have an open mind and the science behind it makes sense is all I can say really.

As for the frame then any tine drill I can think of except the Dale/Seedhawk have wing contour following which the 6m Triton would have as it’s folding. Even the new Horsch mounted tine drills don’t have individual tine depth control.

Not aimed at you but I think there’s a lot of people commenting about this drill without having seen one working up close or looking at the tine design properly. I’m very happy with it as it fills in all the blanks from the multitude of drills we’ve tried since the early 90’s when my father started to look at direct drilling. The first drill he used was an original JD750 planting beans into wheat stubble then going back into beans direct into the wheat stubble. Slotting was the issue which pretty much every drill we’ve tried suffers from. The Triton doesn’t. ‘’If you can pull it at a decent speed, it’ll cover the seed’’
 
They maybe welded up ok but the design is not well thought out at all. The rear upright that the wheel adjuster anchors off, there is no support for that what so ever. Maybe with the new people making it there will be some design adjustments.
Wanted to check before replying but it looks well supported to me.
To be honest I don’t use the wheels much really anyway as the blades hold the depth without them.
 

Attachments

Jesus! Look at the state of those welds! I've defended these before, but that's a joke. Downhand welds on structural framework are unacceptable on a machine at any price.
Over the years I’ve build issues with simba stuff, vaderstad, MF and our last claydon was cracking under the main beam.
 

Deutzdx3

Member
Wanted to check before replying but it looks well supported to me.
To be honest I don’t use the wheels much really anyway as the blades hold the depth without them.
That has the hopper tank frame on which gives support. It looks like their frame with out the hopper cradle has just an upright. Luckily they are being made else where now. I doubt that would last 5 years with out cracking other wise.
 
Location
E Yorks
The issue with primitive poor frame design and manufacture isn’t exclusively a triton fault it comes from the fact that it is an on farm concept which was made on the farm to use at home which proved the concept and worked at home.

They then started to make them for other people and thought they were machinery designers and manufacturers and could take on the professionals of that industry like Mr sumo etc with years of experience and they can’t everybody has to for want of a better term serve there apprenticeship and that takes time to gain that expertise and experience. To fully productionise the concept and make it so it performs across all farms.

A prime example of this is Claydon look at the early Claydon drills and look at them now.

on the plus side usually the best concepts come from users (farmers / contractors) prime examples are the Claydon and dale drills, Agribuggy, f/c mb trac, sands and knight sprayers etc etc.

there have however been failures where farmers haven’t taken on board that they’re are primarily professional farmers and secondarily amateur machine manufacturers and being so arrogant they thought they could beat Vaderstad etc from the get go and sadly it ends in tears they are 2 very different but connected industries.

so with time it should improve and I think in 5 years time it will look a very different machine but based on that very clever concept.
 

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