TS54A + Grey Fergy - Beginner Ploughing advise

agrifab

Member
Hi, just looking for some ploughing advise enough to get me turning over some soil at this moment in time and then perhaps some matches in the future! I have at my disposal a TEA20 and a Ransomes TS54A plough, both inherited from family so my intentions would be not to replace but use what I have. I've cleaned the plough up and everything is free, purchased new discs and points and a few other parts to get it in a basic state of restoration.

One thing you'll notice is they are Epic boards which I've read several times that they are the work of the devil, but if I can I'd still like to battle on with them for now.

Next would be the lack of skims, what parts would I require to finish this section of the plough off?

Then a depth wheel, will I require one? I'm a dab hand at fabricating so I personally wouldn't be phased by making one, just some direction to what to make if need be. Wheel centre in line with back point, diameter and width of wheel etc..would be most helpful.

Currently the plough is set to 11" furrow width. The tractor is on Front 4.00-19 with 48" centres, Rear 11.2 with 52" centres.

That's an idea of where I'm at and any help would be most appreciated!

Many thanks
IMG_0466.JPG
IMG_0467.JPG
 

Mydexta

Member
Location
Dundee/angus
Regards the skimmers, going by the photos you will need drop arms and skimmers.

drop arms you could probably make yourself, a thick walled 1” collar with a locking stud welded into it, with a piece of 1” rod about 8-9” welded To the collar for the Skimmers to attach to.

skimmers can be found on eBay, or mr Weston at Westlake plough spares.

my choice would be ransomes wt10 type skimmers, although others prefer the kverneland type

As for a wheel, then my opinion is steel with a Marker band and scraper welded on is better than rubber.

wheel wants to move so that you’re marker band on the wheel marks you’re front furrow width on the stubble for you’re front furrow on the next run, al the way out so the wheel
Is in behind the tractor wheel for when you come to you’re finish
 

agrifab

Member
Brilliant, I didn't know where to start with the skimmers as you see various different variations on similar ploughs but that give me something to look for now.

I've seen a few good ideas concerning the wheel too that you describe, what would be a typical size to a make the wheel? 18"-24" dia, 3-4" wide? And where is the best position of the centre of the wheel longitudinally...was I correct in saying inline with the rear point or somewhere perhaps in between the points?

Thanks again
 

wuddy

Member
Location
Scottish Borders
Hi, just looking for some ploughing advise enough to get me turning over some soil at this moment in time and then perhaps some matches in the future! I have at my disposal a TEA20 and a Ransomes TS54A plough, both inherited from family so my intentions would be not to replace but use what I have. I've cleaned the plough up and everything is free, purchased new discs and points and a few other parts to get it in a basic state of restoration.

One thing you'll notice is they are Epic boards which I've read several times that they are the work of the devil, but if I can I'd still like to battle on with them for now.

Next would be the lack of skims, what parts would I require to finish this section of the plough off?

Then a depth wheel, will I require one? I'm a dab hand at fabricating so I personally wouldn't be phased by making one, just some direction to what to make if need be. Wheel centre in line with back point, diameter and width of wheel etc..would be most helpful.

Currently the plough is set to 11" furrow width. The tractor is on Front 4.00-19 with 48" centres, Rear 11.2 with 52" centres.

That's an idea of where I'm at and any help would be most appreciated!

Many thanks
View attachment 895158View attachment 895159
You want to be able to slide the wheel in and out width wise and depth Wise, probably a steel wheel of at least 20” diameter with a marker rib on it. I would set the plough at 10”, Remember the legs are cranked so Don’t measure the width at the top where legs are bolted on. I always ran ransomes wt10 skimmers with my epics.
This picture gives you an idea of how you can make drop arms for skimmers!
A615F639-B67E-41E3-A57A-7CE9A35721B3.jpeg
 

agrifab

Member
I've sent my drawings off to the local steel profilers and should receive those shortly, a 560mm wheel rim (I will then roll two 50mm wide bands at 500mm and weld those either side of the rim leaving a 30mm rib down the centre of the wheel) plus two new brackets to support the cross shaft and wheel pivot shaft and while I was at it an arm that will connect to the screwed rod to adjust the depth.

Thanks for the picture of the drop arms, that helps greatly! I was concerned about setting the plough to 10" as I thought it may mean stripping the legs down completely again as the cranks needed to be in the other direction, but it dawned on me I just need to switch the front and rear leg assemblies, as they alternate in crank direction, into the new position on the frame, essentially 4 bolts!...hopefully that's the done thing to do.

How wide will I need to adjust the wheel in its widest setting? I take it the rib on the wheel will usually run 10" away from the furrow wall to mark the next pass but how wider than that will it need to be so I can cut depth wheel pivoting shaft the correct length.

Thanks
 

agrifab

Member
So running at 52" rear wheel centres the depth wheel will want to run max at approx 26" from the centre of the plough plus a little extra for completeness.

Is £140 the going rate for two wt10 skimmers?
 

wuddy

Member
Location
Scottish Borders
I've sent my drawings off to the local steel profilers and should receive those shortly, a 560mm wheel rim (I will then roll two 50mm wide bands at 500mm and weld those either side of the rim leaving a 30mm rib down the centre of the wheel) plus two new brackets to support the cross shaft and wheel pivot shaft and while I was at it an arm that will connect to the screwed rod to adjust the depth.

Thanks for the picture of the drop arms, that helps greatly! I was concerned about setting the plough to 10" as I thought it may mean stripping the legs down completely again as the cranks needed to be in the other direction, but it dawned on me I just need to switch the front and rear leg assemblies, as they alternate in crank direction, into the new position on the frame, essentially 4 bolts!...hopefully that's the done thing to do.

How wide will I need to adjust the wheel in its widest setting? I take it the rib on the wheel will usually run 10" away from the furrow wall to mark the next pass but how wider than that will it need to be so I can cut depth wheel pivoting shaft the correct length.

Thanks
Wheel out there somewhere,
749C5AFD-3C41-459B-8E96-EC2E87BB11A0.jpeg

And yes rib usually 10” from furrow wall
4725D6FF-4A41-4987-B7C3-92642F8F6633.png
 

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
Tractor wheel settings should have the inside edges of both front and rear tyres in line, and when ploughing, keep the front wheel against and parallel to the furrow wall,do not hold the wheel at an angle to the wall, this in effect moves the centre of the tractor to the work, and crabs the whole outfit.
 

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
Tractor wheel settings should have the inside edges of both front and rear tyres in line, and when ploughing, keep the front wheel against and parallel to the furrow wall,do not hold the wheel at an angle to the wall, this in effect moves the centre of the tractor to the work, and crabs the whole outfit.
The wheel settings he has on his fergy are as near as it gets to correct for 10" work. The 4" front tyres make it impossible to get below 44" inside front tyres
 

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
And he cant saw the tractor up, and reweld, or swop wheels around. All things I had to do to my leyland, that had the front axle box shortened, International wheels on the back, and MF 35 on the front, Front track is 2" wider than rear, which keeps rear up to the furrow wall.
He is on a hiding to nothing, cant enter Fergy class, but is at an intimidate disadvantage if in vintage hyd, and thats before we mention the plough, or the removal of weight transfer which happens as soon as the land wheel hits the ground.
I wish him luck, and hope that interest grows, equipment is easier to sort out than attitude, and with enjoyment may come the desire to improve/upgrade.
 
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arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
I started with exactly the same set up as agrifab. First job was to put the epics in Cheffins auction and though they were in very good order they went for £25 the pair. I fitted an adjustable land wheel and a long cross shaft and played with non genuine YLs 183 and genuine165s. Eventually I bit the bullet and got some genuine YL183s. There was nothing wrong with the tractor except a lack of traction at times which can lead to a scrapped up rut by the land wheel which showed up in the next run.
I could name a few very successful vintage ploughmen who use grey Fergies and Robin ploughs in various combinations of the two but I have yet to see any using epics. Some say this is due to judge bias, very much as users of IH ploughs also suggest.
In conclusion my order of priorities would be to fit a wheel, skimmers and YL183 bodies.
 
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Firefighters douse tractor ‘well alight in a field’

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Written by Agriland Team

Firefighters were called in to extinguish a tractor which was “well alight in a field” in Somerset, England, this week.

The incident occurred yesterday afternoon, Wednesday, July 29, on Chilton Road, Chilton Polden, Bridgwater, in the English county, local firefighters confirmed.

In a brief report on the matter, Devon and Somerset Fire and Rescue Service said: “Fire control received calls to a tractor on fire at Chilton Polden, Bridgwater.

“Fire control sent two fire engines from Bridgwater, one fire engine from Street and one water bowser from Yeovil.

Once the crew got in attendance the officer in charge confirmed one tractor well alight in a field...
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