Universal Column and I beam strength

Scilly_Guy

Member
Mixed Farmer
Hi, I realise that this is not immediately obviously farming related so my apologies, however the trailer I am looking at building will be used on the farm during the summer when the boat is not on it. I found this site when searching for information about the strength of Universal Column and I beam so I thought someone might be able to help me out.

I am looking to get a trailer fabricated and galvanised by SJAndrew in Cornwall but they wouldn't give me advice as to what materials to use presumably because they don't want the liability should it go wrong. The trailer is NOT for use on roads and is only for use on the farm and for pulling my boat up the slipway.

Any advice for the trailer design is appreciated. I have used H Beam rather than box section because I would rather be able to access all surfaces to wash the salt off, I have seen many galvanised box section trailers rust from the inside out because you cannot access the inside but of course the salt can. I am not sure which orientation to use with the beam, if I was using channel then the strength would be with it in an 'u' or 'n' configuration but I know I beam is used in an 'I' orientation. Obviously universal column is designed to be vertical but I was envisioning it as two channels back to back.

The boat weighs less than 2,000kg, around 1,500kg. The centre of mass is towards the stern as the outboards weigh about 70kg each.

The farm tracks that the trailer needs to navigate are only just wider than the boat so the wheels need to be under the level of the bearers.

My plan is to fix 4x4 into/onto the bearers to provide a forgiving surface for the boat to sit on.

A friend with a similar sized flat bed has said that the axle to hitch should be 14ft as he can get his just about anywhere on the island.

The main beam is 5m long, if I consider the worst case load to be 2,000kg in the mid point of that beam, what sive UC should I use?

I have considered a brace in the mid point between the front bearer and the hitch to discourage twisting, is that necessary/effective?

braced.PNG
ousideGuides.PNG
turningCircle.PNG
 

MrA.G.

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Northern Ireland
In simple terms
UC sections are good for axial load but not as efficient in bending, but they have better minor axis bending
UB sections are efficient for major axis bending, less so for minor axis bending
Hollow sections are good for biaxial bending.
To help with your trailer...to be honest the boat is not heavy in the grand scheme of things. Most fabricators should be able to sort something out using common fabrication knowledge. If I were to comment on your proposed sketches I would say all the members need rotated 90degrees
 
Box section with the ends capped (welded caps) so no salt water can get in will be a lot easier to clean off. Would also make for a stronger lighter trailer.
 

Nukemall

Member
Think the traditional u channel on its side, with a square ladder frame under boat and "a" frame up to hitch will be more rigid and lighter.
 

Scilly_Guy

Member
Mixed Farmer
I missed the galv bit but you could leave vent holes and plug after.
If the trailer is hollow and plugged then the trapped air, when combined with the wheels may make the trailer buoyant, even if it isn't totally buoyant I wouldn't want it moving underwater when trying to bring the boat in on it. Also plugs have a habit of leaking eventually, leading to trapped salt and thus corrosion from the inside out, I've seen it too many times before.

In simple terms
UC sections are good for axial load but not as efficient in bending, but they have better minor axis bending
UB sections are efficient for major axis bending, less so for minor axis bending
Hollow sections are good for biaxial bending.
To help with your trailer...to be honest the boat is not heavy in the grand scheme of things. Most fabricators should be able to sort something out using common fabrication knowledge. If I were to comment on your proposed sketches I would say all the members need rotated 90degrees

Thank you, I think my real question with regard to the weights involved is how small (read cheap) beam can I get away with? I certainly am not afraid of using larger than I need to, so that I gain some redundancy but I don't want to go too big. I think in these drawings I have used 203x203x52 for the main beam and 152x152x23 for the others. One reason for that is that I want big wheels for on the farm and to cope better with any pot holes on the slipway, and the larger beams help to rise above them.

Another question I had for anyone who can help is about axles, I had been considering weld on stubs, welded to plates that could be bolted on after galvanising. Would these be strong enough? An old lorry axle would be ideal but I don't know how to go about finding one.
 

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