Universal tractors

[Karliboy]

Engine rebuild almost complete....
View attachment 855563
Yes a Leyland Sherpa camper an behind

What sort of costs in the engine rebuild do you think you have?
Did all parts come from the likes off sparex ?
I think I’ll do mine one day. She starts grand with just a little heat but until she’s warmed up slowly she dosent sound over healthy when you rev her up so I always give her 20mins to get the blood flowing before any hard work sets in then she’s fine.

 

[jd24]

What sort of costs in the engine rebuild do you think you have?
Did all parts come from the likes off sparex ?
I think I’ll do mine one day. She starts grand with just a little heat but until she’s warmed up slowly she dosent sound over healthy when you rev her up so I always give her 20mins to get the blood flowing before any hard work sets in then she’s fine.

Depending on what you mean by rebuild... I stripped mine down. Crank was okay and camshaft ws okay (in spec). I could have replaced the crank bearing but the clearence was spot on so no need and the camshaft was good. I think cost all in has been just over £1000 all in. You can get kits off ebay us but Malpas parts (sparex) are very helpful and accept returns etc. You can get some variations in engine bore size apparently. Mine is 95mm bore 4cyl but some are 105 or 102 I think. Measure before you buy. I was confused with my bores because they were measuring between abour 96mm and 100mm lol

The sleeves were so out of round and worn it was amazing it ran. I could slip and 1mm feeler gauge down the side of two pistons and maybe 2mm of piston 3. The piston skirts were skimmin off cylinder wall with every stroke.
Know Your Limits....
I made a puller with Huge m24 bolt and plate and messed around for days with heat trying to get the sleeves out. Torqued up with a 1m breaker bar they wouldnt budge. (m24 bolt with round 150nm is huge force) but no match for stuck liners.
Pheonix Rebores Hereford to the rescue.

The accepted the engine pretty complete. They masked up places to prevent swarf. They bored out the sleeves, pressed in new and refinished to the correct spec. They also pressed in new bushes on the conrods which then have to be machined to float on the gudgeon pins. This cost bout £250 I think. Later on I got them to press and ream new guides in the head then recut new valve seats. This was jut under £100 which gain was reasonable. None of the above you can do at home really.
Oo new

Got to say if anyone needs engine machining doing contact Pheonix Rebores in Hereford. Dying skill and knowledge in the country mean places like this are now rare. Great prices and rapid turnaround.
Essential equipment - turnover stand. Managed to find this 600kg one on ebay used for £55. Sell it once you are done.

Replace oil seal essential on clutch end but you should do both

On mine the oil pump won't come out without removing the sump case as it binds against the case.

New clutch plates

New water pump

Engine went back together easy.... So simple.

Final great discovery.... Dieselec services in Ditton priors Shropshire. Refurbished my fuel injection pump in less than 24 hrs and for only £84. I think they can also test injectors.

Some people say I'm mad rebuilding but it's a handy tractor with 4wd. Dad used it in orchards for bout 15 yrs bottom spraying, spraying, topping with 8 ft votex and apple blowing so loads of pto high speed abuse.

 

[8100]

Keep posting your progress pics please it is very interesting

 

[jd24]

Keep posting your progress pics please it is very interesting

Will do. Gives me something to do when up with my son

 

[Karliboy]

great pics and thanks for the info.
i had a core plug go rotten on one of the heads a few years ago right between the two cylinder heads so it was a toss up which to remove which then resulted in both head gaskets needing to be done as i chose the wrong one which is where i came across the bore size issue for the new gaskets. i also noticed the new gaskets the small water holes (there was none on the new gaskets) were different on them over the water ports compared to the old gaskets so i added my own holes to them (rightly or wrongly i dont know but shes running fine with no issues)

 

[jd24]

great pics and thanks for the info.
i had a core plug go rotten on one of the heads a few years ago right between the two cylinder heads so it was a toss up which to remove which then resulted in both head gaskets needing to be done as i chose the wrong one which is where i came across the bore size issue for the new gaskets. i also noticed the new gaskets the small water holes (there was none on the new gaskets) were different on them over the water ports compared to the old gaskets so i added my own holes to them (rightly or wrongly i dont know but shes running fine with no issues)

Yeah the old one had trapezium shaped water holes. The new one has small ones..... I left them small. Figured the flowing water and rust and new pump will widen them... Haha

 

[jd24]

great pics and thanks for the info.
i had a core plug go rotten on one of the heads a few years ago right between the two cylinder heads so it was a toss up which to remove which then resulted in both head gaskets needing to be done as i chose the wrong one which is where i came across the bore size issue for the new gaskets. i also noticed the new gaskets the small water holes (there was none on the new gaskets) were different on them over the water ports compared to the old gaskets so i added my own holes to them (rightly or wrongly i dont know but shes running fine with no issues)

Head gasket replacement is very easy on this tractor.....no head studs to stick to the head

 

[jd24]

great pics and thanks for the info.
i had a core plug go rotten on one of the heads a few years ago right between the two cylinder heads so it was a toss up which to remove which then resulted in both head gaskets needing to be done as i chose the wrong one which is where i came across the bore size issue for the new gaskets. i also noticed the new gaskets the small water holes (there was none on the new gaskets) were different on them over the water ports compared to the old gaskets so i added my own holes to them (rightly or wrongly i dont know but shes running fine with no issues)

 

[Karliboy]

its a while ago now that i did it but i think it was to do with all the small 5mm ish holes there wasnt enough in the new gaskets compared to the old one

also torquing the head was a guess as i couldnt find any values so before i started i set wrench on the old bolts before undoing them and just added a little bit for the benefit of the doubt.
bit of a gamble but like i said had no problems since.

 

[jd24]

its a while ago now that i did it but i think it was to do with all the small 5mm ish holes there wasnt enough in the new gaskets compared to the old one

also torquing the head was a guess as i couldnt find any values so before i started i set wrench on the old bolts before undoing them and just added a little bit for the benefit of the doubt.
bit of a gamble but like i said had no problems since.

The top left hole in the gasket is part of the water jacket...i think. I wonder if its to encourage circulation of water from the opposite end of the block from where the pump is?

Soon find out lol

as for the torque i normally do 30nm 60nm then 90nm however the manual said 113nm which was a tiny amount more.

 

[Karliboy]

Just found this seller on eBay while browsing through.
Just incase it’s any use to anybody. ?

 

[jd24]

Got the tractor running but the power steering isn't working properly on my utb 550. The ram move but stops against resistance.
Pump.. I've taken apart the pump. It has what looks like a pressure relief valve with a ball bearing and spring with a cup that seals against the bb. The cup that seals against the ball bearing is Pitted and is certainly leaking oil possible cause of weak ram. I should be able to refinish this part on my lathe. Some of the rubber seals look like they were also leaking.

Where can I find these seals or I'll standard o rings work? The inner seal has a weird thin band and the rubber seal.

 

[Rob pop]

Depending on what you mean by rebuild... I stripped mine down. Crank was okay and camshaft ws okay (in spec). I could have replaced the crank bearing but the clearence was spot on so no need and the camshaft was good. I think cost all in has been just over £1000 all in. You can get kits off ebay us but Malpas parts (sparex) are very helpful and accept returns etc. You can get some variations in engine bore size apparently. Mine is 95mm bore 4cyl but some are 105 or 102 I think. Measure before you buy. I was confused with my bores because they were measuring between abour 96mm and 100mm lol
View attachment 855739
The sleeves were so out of round and worn it was amazing it ran. I could slip and 1mm feeler gauge down the side of two pistons and maybe 2mm of piston 3. The piston skirts were skimmin off cylinder wall with every stroke.
Know Your Limits....
I made a puller with Huge m24 bolt and plate and messed around for days with heat trying to get the sleeves out. Torqued up with a 1m breaker bar they wouldnt budge. (m24 bolt with round 150nm is huge force) but no match for stuck liners.
Pheonix Rebores Hereford to the rescue. View attachment 855744
The accepted the engine pretty complete. They masked up places to prevent swarf. They bored out the sleeves, pressed in new and refinished to the correct spec. They also pressed in new bushes on the conrods which then have to be machined to float on the gudgeon pins. This cost bout £250 I think. Later on I got them to press and ream new guides in the head then recut new valve seats. This was jut under £100 which gain was reasonable. None of the above you can do at home really.
Oo new
View attachment 855745
Got to say if anyone needs engine machining doing contact Pheonix Rebores in Hereford. Dying skill and knowledge in the country mean places like this are now rare. Great prices and rapid turnaround.
Essential equipment - turnover stand. Managed to find this 600kg one on ebay used for £55. Sell it once you are done.
View attachment 855746
Replace oil seal essential on clutch end but you should do both
View attachment 855747

On mine the oil pump won't come out without removing the sump case as it binds against the case.

View attachment 855748
New clutch plates
View attachment 855749
New water pump
View attachment 855751

Engine went back together easy.... So simple.

Final great discovery.... Dieselec services in Ditton priors Shropshire. Refurbished my fuel injection pump in less than 24 hrs and for only £84. I think they can also test injectors.

Some people say I'm mad rebuilding but it's a handy tractor with 4wd. Dad used it in orchards for bout 15 yrs bottom spraying, spraying, topping with 8 ft votex and apple blowing so loads of pto high speed abuse.

Hello does anyone have a universal tractor to sell?

 

[jd24]

First test tomorrow or Friday topping thistles with a mower slightly too big for it which should help the bed the piston rings as it is burning quite a bit of oil which is expected

 

[jd24]

Ps if anyone has trouble with the power assist steering I might be able to help. Sorted mine.

 

[Karliboy]

I had to re seal mine a few years ago on the ram. It took a bit off messing adjusting the end shaft in and out to get it just right.
I need to re seal where the ball joint in the top goes now to create the in out movement when I get time.

 

[jd24]

I had to re seal mine a few years ago on the ram. It took a bit off messing adjusting the end shaft in and out to get it just right.
I need to re seal where the ball joint in the top goes now to create the in out movement when I get time.

I bought some ball joint boots off ebay and resealed them. Its worth taking the ram off and cleaning inside the joint because dirt will destroy it. Found some good videos on ebay repairing the ram. I also resealed the internal pump seals. Very smooth steering now

 

[marshboy]

Does the universal 530 have a dual clutch ie old fashioned live drive if so how do you adjust it cant get pto in gear unless stop the engine and start with pto engaged

 

[agrimax]

Dual clutch with hand lever for eng/disengagement I think. Don't know about adjustment though....... Am guessing a threaded clevis on a rod from the hand lever?

 

[jd24]

Does the universal 530 have a dual clutch ie old fashioned live drive if so how do you adjust it cant get pto in gear unless stop the engine and start with pto engaged

If there is a hand lever for the pto the clutch will be like this.

When you change the clutch and or fingers is very important you get the fingers adjusted so the are all the same distance. The gap between both fingers and bearings I think should be 2.5mm (this should be about 1inch of free play on the pedal. I will check this) . As the clutch wears the gap will close up and start rubbing the fingers away(like in the photo) . If they are all the same distance you can adjust the clutch externally on the clutch linkage. If you run out of adjustment you have to go through the tiny hole into the clutch housing... Very fiddly and might be easier to split the tractor.