Upgrading from 90Series to ProSeries boots.

[all_arable]

Boots are worn out so thinking of upgrading to new ProSeries Boots instead of replacing like for like.

Have I thought of everything?

LH Boot A109343
RH Boot A109344
Pin (for boot) AA98401
Boot screw SU29991
Seed Tab A105410
Tab Nut N283976
Tab Screw N283308

And I believe that you have to change firming wheels too

Firming wheel AA88096


Have I missed anything?????

Back of the fag packet calcs say extra £60/coulter (ie DOUBLE THE COST OF 90SERIES!!!!) with extra one off cost of £50 for the firming wheel, so anyone done it & is it worth it? Prices are from JD Parts Calalog online without stock order discount etc.....

Interested to hear from anyone with experience of both 90 series & ProSeries

 

[cows sh#t me to tears]

I believe the opening for the seed in the actual boot is a lot narrower? Maybe look at one and see if it will suit your needs first. I had a fair amount of plugging issues this year where seed boot tabs held damp soil enough to block seed boot opening on 90 series boots. Not sure I want to decrease the opening area and make it worse??

 

[AF Salers]

@Simon Chiles

 

[Simon Chiles]

Boots are worn out so thinking of upgrading to new ProSeries Boots instead of replacing like for like.

Have I thought of everything?

LH Boot A109343
RH Boot A109344
Pin (for boot) AA98401
Boot screw SU29991
Seed Tab A105410
Tab Nut N283976
Tab Screw N283308

And I believe that you have to change firming wheels too

Firming wheel AA88096


Have I missed anything?????

Back of the fag packet calcs say extra £60/coulter (ie DOUBLE THE COST OF 90SERIES!!!!) with extra one off cost of £50 for the firming wheel, so anyone done it & is it worth it? Prices are from JD Parts Calalog online without stock order discount etc.....

Interested to hear from anyone with experience of both 90 series & ProSeries

I believe the opening for the seed in the actual boot is a lot narrower? Maybe look at one and see if it will suit your needs first. I had a fair amount of plugging issues this year where seed boot tabs held damp soil enough to block seed boot opening on 90 series boots. Not sure I want to decrease the opening area and make it worse??

Pro series boots are A109343 and A109344. You won’t need AA98401 and SU29991 ( flag pin and bolt ) as they only fit a pro series opener. You need bolt N282625 and nut K40006 as you would have done on your 90 series opener, personally I’d change them for reasons explained later. The pro series press wheel is AA88056, not ......96 that’s an invalid part number. You’ll need a longer bolt for the press wheel 19M7720, nut A31869 ( you could use the old one if you’re feeling tight ) and washer N280653. Again you could discard the old spacer and one of the washers as N280653 is the same thickness as the old washer.

It’s definitely worth upgrading to the pro series boot however you must upgrade the press wheel at the same time otherwise you’ll be compacting both sides of the seed trench and only cracking up one side with your Guttlers. Seed placement is far superior with the pro series boots and contrary to some US advisers isn’t anymore prone to blocking as the internal size of the boot is exactly the same. I’ve converted my 90 series to pro series boots and drilled winter beans with a TGW of 709 this spring at 400 kg/ha without blocking. Although the pro series boots are more expensive they are 2.5 times harder and coupled with being narrower should give much longer service life. Personally I wouldn’t go back to a 90 boot having changed.

 

[all_arable]

Pro series boots are A109343 and A109344. You won’t need AA98401 and SU29991 ( flag pin and bolt ) as they only fit a pro series opener. You need bolt N282625 and nut K40006 as you would have done on your 90 series opener, personally I’d change them for reasons explained later. The pro series press wheel is AA88056, not ......96 that’s an invalid part number. You’ll need a longer bolt for the press wheel 19M7720, nut A31869 ( you could use the old one if you’re feeling tight ) and washer N280653. Again you could discard the old spacer and one of the washers as N280653 is the same thickness as the old washer.

It’s definitely worth upgrading to the pro series boot however you must upgrade the press wheel at the same time otherwise you’ll be compacting both sides of the seed trench and only cracking up one side with your Guttlers. Seed placement is far superior with the pro series boots and contrary to some US advisers isn’t anymore prone to blocking as the internal size of the boot is exactly the same. I’ve converted my 90 series to pro series boots and drilled winter beans with a TGW of 709 this spring at 400 kg/ha without blocking. Although the pro series boots are more expensive they are 2.5 times harder and coupled with being narrower should give much longer service life. Personally I wouldn’t go back to a 90 boot having changed.

Thanks for the detailed reply. If they are 2.5 times harder then it may explain why they are twice the price!

Out of interest how much narrower is the new firming wheel, any pics to compare?

 

[Northdowns Martin]

@Simon Chiles Didn’t think your advise came without attendance on one of your operators course? Hope he’s signed up?

 

[Simon Chiles]

Thanks for the detailed reply. If they are 2.5 times harder then it may explain why they are twice the price!

Out of interest how much narrower is the new firming wheel, any pics to compare?

90 series on left, pro series centre and 60 series on right.

 

[all_arable]

90 series on left, pro series centre and 60 series on right.

Think that photo has convinced me to bite the bullet & upgrade when changing the boots. Have you ever bushed out the holes on where the boot attaches to the drill. The holes don't seem too worn & not too much up down play in the boot but wondering if worth it while the boots are all off

 

[Simon Chiles]

Think that photo has convinced me to bite the bullet & upgrade when changing the boots. Have you ever bushed out the holes on where the boot attaches to the drill. The holes don't seem too worn & not too much up down play in the boot but wondering if worth it while the boots are all off

You could use a M12 x 110mm bolt and nut to hold the boot on, you might have to take the paint of the new boots with a drill bit as the hole is only 11.5mm and only use an 8.8 grade bolt. It’s quite a common fix but I didn’t bother as the play wasn’t that great.

 

[all_arable]

You could use a M12 x 110mm bolt and nut to hold the boot on, you might have to take the paint of the new boots with a drill bit as the hole is only 11.5mm and only use an 8.8 grade bolt. It’s quite a common fix but I didn’t bother as the play wasn’t that great.

Thats what I'm trying to work out.

Doesn't seem a lot of play but I'll have to measure it next time I'm in the workshop.

What level of play would you say is acceptable?

I'm assuming that your drill has done plenty of acres too? So interesting to hear that you haven't felt the need to 'improve' it

 

[Simon Chiles]

Thats what I'm trying to work out.

Doesn't seem a lot of play but I'll have to measure it next time I'm in the workshop.

What level of play would you say is acceptable?

I'm assuming that your drill has done plenty of acres too? So interesting to hear that you haven't felt the need to 'improve' it

Don’t forget that this is my third 750 do this one hasn’t done many acres. I’d measure the holes in the coulter arm, if they’re more than 12.5/13 mm on the long side of the elongation I’d stick the bigger bolt in. Bear in mind that even when new there’s a bit of play. I’d expect you to get 7500 acres per metre width of drill before they needed bushing.

 

[all_arable]

Don’t forget that this is my third 750 do this one hasn’t done many acres. I’d measure the holes in the coulter arm, if they’re more than 12.5/13 mm on the long side of the elongation I’d stick the bigger bolt in. Bear in mind that even when new there’s a bit of play. I’d expect you to get 7500 acres per metre width of drill before they needed bushing.

With those acres a fair amount would need refurbishing, at JD prices it would probably be cheaper to swap drills ???

 

[benferg]

Talking of the lifespan of a seed boot. We were changing the jd boots every year (1400 ha on a 4 meter drill). Went to needham boots and we are entering our third season without having to change them.

 

[cows sh#t me to tears]

Got a price on the "kits" .......was about $600au per unit. Which was basically a boot a disc a press wheel and closing wheel. 20+k and still no greasless bushes... I'm going down the Arricks route i think. Colin's stuff is far superior.... I'll post pics when we do it.

 

[SilliamWhale]

Talking of the lifespan of a seed boot. We were changing the jd boots every year (1400 ha on a 4 meter drill). Went to needham boots and we are entering our third season without having to change them.

Must have cost you an arm and a leg to ship them to NZ?


I have the old 750 and its gravity feed but I run my boots in the top hole. I actually prefer it even with new discs.

I think they last longer (I did a bit of very primitive hard facing with a welding rod which has done no harm) and I don't notice any seed on the surface ever no matter what the crop. I will admit this may not suit air seeders so well as sometimes the boot is not in the ground quite but my seed is still dropped where I need it.

Personally I'm happy with the old style seed boots. I don't have the JD new firming wheels but I do needhams (before jd produced their narrower one) and they have been excellent. I use Exaptas closing wheels as guttlers wouldn't fit my old style arms and most of the time they've been great. As I'm gravity fed I don't get too worried about seed tabs. I do hate buying new boots though - per acre they are not expensive but I just hate buying all new boots for just having lost a few mm of wear though