Wall cavity insulation- free scheme?

[suffolksmallholder]

One draw back I see of internal lining is the rooms get smaller, may be by a foot?

Is external lining on top of harling feasible, or would that have to come off first?

Which is cheaper, internal or external?

TIA

All the buildings I have ever renovated have either been lined with blockwork (The house within a house) or dry lined as I have shown on the inside. @Dry Rot 's piece of info that I have only speed read for now, echos my thoughts on too much insulation/breathability issues & other future problems.
I have done medieval/flint/brick but not stone (except flint) constructions. There is a piece in Dry Rot's info on the thickness of stone walls.
I have an old theory in my head from a long time ago; 'A foot of stonework is the same as an inch if insulation'. This seems to be true. Drafts are a cause of cold and are often overlooked. I personally swing with internal as you have no scaffold to access roof levels or weathering issues. The only miss is the void between floors and this can be done later.
SS

 

[Dry Rot]

I have an old housewith stone walls harled or rough cast outside. Plasterboard internally on 2"x2" framing.

I'd like to blow insulation behind the plasterboard but opinions are varied. One character posting on here got so hot under the colar about the mere suggestion that I had to block him! But it is done behind lathe and plaster in historic buildings. The polystyrene beads can apparently react with the insulation on electric wiring annd I gather that paper or wood fibre can soak up moisture. It seems to be very complicated!

But if the insulation could be blown in, it would be a cheaper and tidier way of doing it. I am on the east of Scotland with an average rainfall of around 27 inches/annum...but it does get bloody cold! I suspect the heat just goes straight through the plasterboard, into the space, then upwards through the roof. I really need to get something done, but don't want to spend a fortune. I did look into the grants but there is no much help if you've a pitched roof and solid walls.

 

[simmy_bull]

@suffolksmallholder can the battens transfer the damp if there’s a little bit say on a downstairs wall in an old stone built house?

 

[Still Farming]

@suffolksmallholder can the battens transfer the damp if there’s a little bit say on a downstairs wall in an old stone built house?

When fix batterns put building paper or moisture barrier paper up first.

 

[suffolksmallholder]

@simmmy_bull. In answer to your Q. No. The battens are fixed over the DPM (Tyvec. My preferred material) so no bridging. If the wall is wringing then you need to consider 'getting-the-water-away'. So use a perforated pipe in the ground bedded in shingle to help the water away to your soakaway/ditch system. Also reducing the ground level. My place in sunny Suffolk desperately needed the water-away method & I reduced the ground-water level by 450mm(18") which made such a difference. The Victorian Bricklayers forgot the slate DPC here!
SS