It used to be a doddle taking out volunteer wheat when we could apply Dicurane to tolerant Barleys but intolerant Wheat varieties.... Did a good job on wild oats as well!Looks good
Have you got access to a Terrablade inter row cultivator to take some of those wheat volunteers out in your barley?
Wanting to go no till but sit sure on the way to start
- Thread starter Dan Attle
- Start date
You can still theoretically get CTU as Tower (with PDM & DFF) which is approved to GS30 but I don't know if it's strong enough these days & as you say, needs to be aimed at the right varieties.
Not variety restrictions with Tower on the Adama Uk website https://www.adama.com/uk/en/our-solutions/herbicides/tower
Edited to remove a tag to an Adama agronomist no longer in TFF
Last edited:
No, I shouldn't think so this far south!Looks good
Have you got access to a Terrablade inter row cultivator to take some of those wheat volunteers out in your barley?
It was supposed to go into s barley but I had to shuffle the rotation a bit this year to allow for some grass reseeds.
Lesson learnt maybe?
Agromnist says that I cant do much about it now. It will be home fed so it's not the end of the world.
Dan Attle
Member
- Location
- cambridgeshire uk
crops look well into lays how many weeks prior to drilling did you spray off
Not long enough really. They were cut beginning of sept, I allowed a couple of weeks to green up, glyphosate and the wheat was drilled around the 26th sept and the oats a couple of weeks later.
This year I am hoping to spray before cutting, last year the grass was rented out so it was out of my control a bit.
It was ok but allopathy (spelling) made it look poorly for quite a while but has got over that now.
Might have drilled a bit deep because it's difficult to get perfect depth with a claydon across it's width and also don't hold back on the seed rate. Even early drilling at 180kg/ha was probably inadequate on ley ground.
Having said all that it is still only February so a bit of tillering will help.
I like this list of ten steps to no-till adoption. Buying a drill is low down at seven or eight
Rolf Derpsch: Critical steps to no-till adoption
www.rolf-derpsch.com
Top ten critical factors for no-tillage adoption
#1 & 10 are continuous. #6 + cover crops needs me to have a conversation with Edwin Taylor about no till in the North.
- Improve your knowledge about the system, especially in weed control and plan for the change to permanent no-tillage at least 1 year in advance
- Analyze your soil (aim for a balanced nutrient and pH status)
- Avoid soils with poor drainage
- Level the soil surface
- Eliminate soil compaction issues before starting no-till
- Produce the largest possible amount of mulch cover
- Buy a no-till seeding machine
- Start on 10 percent of your farm
- Use crop rotation and green manure cover crops
- Be prepared to learn constantly and watch for new developments.
#1 & 10 are continuous. #6 + cover crops needs me to have a conversation with Edwin Taylor about no till in the North.
ollie989898
Member
The way to do it would be to get a contractor or another farmer to come to your farm, look at your situation and then do a bit of drilling for you. Don't choose the wettest most horrid conditions, choose a field in a reasonable year where everything else is equal and you aren't setting it up to fail. At least for for your first time out. In subsequent years you can try a bit more by extending the envelope to build your confidence in the system.
Yes you will get a contractor bill but you won't have used your own kit either so there is a time/money saving there. Do this for a few years before deciding on a drill as they are all expensive.
I found initially that you need to recalibrate what a seed bed looks like. In particular the claydon on one farm I walked left some pretty worrying results in the initial stages, with loads of open ground and wheat that seemed to take an age to come up and look like a crop, the surface was rough and cloddy and all the time my brain was screaming about the slug risk. Meanwhile on the field next door, same soil type the conventionally established crops looked great....
Yes you will get a contractor bill but you won't have used your own kit either so there is a time/money saving there. Do this for a few years before deciding on a drill as they are all expensive.
I found initially that you need to recalibrate what a seed bed looks like. In particular the claydon on one farm I walked left some pretty worrying results in the initial stages, with loads of open ground and wheat that seemed to take an age to come up and look like a crop, the surface was rough and cloddy and all the time my brain was screaming about the slug risk. Meanwhile on the field next door, same soil type the conventionally established crops looked great....
- Location
- Lincolnshire
How can any tined "direct drill" ever be defined as no till. Its a drag with seed tubes on it. And needs plenty power to pull it. But we are saving carbon right?
Even my unidrill cultivates about 40% of the surface.
Even my unidrill cultivates about 40% of the surface.
Because the term min till has already been bagged? I suppose you could call it direct drilling as against a disc no tilling?
It's all very flexible in reality though isn't it.
Fish
Member
- Location
- North yorkshire
I wouldn't get to hung up on the term tined dd drill, as it covers many sins, from Claydons and Sumos at one end to something like my CO on Metcalfes at the other. One needs a hole heap of power, the other not so much, it's just a way of arriving at the same spot via a different route.
The chosen route is upto you and your aims.
- Location
- Chipping Norton
I would go so far as to argue that a Horsch on Metcalfe points is as low disturbance as a disc drill with half the row spacing, when driven correctly. A strip till drill i.e. deep leading tine, while maybe described as a 'direct drill' it is certainly NOT zero-till. Claydon, Sumo DTS, Mzuri etc etc
- Location
- Essex Coast
- Location
- Essex
Do you use the sim tech to drill a large part of the farm Simon?
- Location
- Essex Coast
Yes, mostly Bill. Just use the Moore for drilling wheat into stripped linseed and sometimes linseed and lucerne in the Spring.
clbarclay
Member
- Location
- Worcestershire
I chose to think of "No-till" as being short for "No more tillage that necessary". Even the best disc drills have some level of disturbance.
What is actually necessary is another matter.
clbarclay
Member
- Location
- Worcestershire
That is very impressive and a far cry from when I had one on demo here a few years ago. Conditions do vary though and I hope my soils have improved at least a bit since then, when the feilds were effectively year 0 after min till. However, just Bougault knifes with no leading discs still rip and throw a fair bit of soil about.