Weaving GD user thread

Badshot

Member
Location
Kent


Little video while in the beans this morning.

Tundra beans planted end of march, so I hope it's true they're ok in spring.
I had half a tonne of spring beans left from a few years ago so have planted them in this field, towards the end of the video a thick patch on the right side appears, that's the double drilled bit where I swapped over to springs.
 

EddAke

Member
Mixed Farmer
Are you moving away from a GD or upgraded? Do you use the drill on any rolling hills? What is it like for crabbing on hillsides?
Honestly, it’s a very well built drill and a good design. We’ve encountered some difficulties with crabbing (on rolling hills) and inconsistent seed depth (on stony ground), I think this is because we’ve jumped into disc drilled no till straight from a plough/min-till system and I don’t think our soils are ready for this drill yet, I’m also having doubts about how well any no-till disc drill can cope with our shallow stony Cotswold brash. So we’ve decide to take a step back and look at some direct tine drills.
 

DieselRob

Member
BASE UK Member
Location
North Yorkshire
Honestly, it’s a very well built drill and a good design. We’ve encountered some difficulties with crabbing (on rolling hills) and inconsistent seed depth (on stony ground), I think this is because we’ve jumped into disc drilled no till straight from a plough/min-till system and I don’t think our soils are ready for this drill yet, I’m also having doubts about how well any no-till disc drill can cope with our shallow stony Cotswold brash. So we’ve decide to take a step back and look at some direct tine drills.
Without wanting to detract too much from the purpose of this thread and what I believe is the brilliant GD drill, I completely understand your opinion as it is the exact same position I find myself in, what tine drills do you like the look of at the moment? My concern with tine drills is them pulling stones up in the early years, hopefully reduced forward speed can mitigate this, I'm on deep sandy loam with quite a lot of stone (small stone that I keep getting told will create havoc with a disc opener... so a different scenario to brash land but interesting to discuss opinions all the same
 

EddAke

Member
Mixed Farmer
Without wanting to detract too much from the purpose of this thread and what I believe is the brilliant GD drill, I completely understand your opinion as it is the exact same position I find myself in, what tine drills do you like the look of at the moment? My concern with tine drills is them pulling stones up in the early years, hopefully reduced forward speed can mitigate this, I'm on deep sandy loam with quite a lot of stone (small stone that I keep getting told will create havoc with a disc opener... so a different scenario to brash land but interesting to discuss opinions all the same
We have had no issue with stones getting in the discs and/or stalling the discs.
I think what has happened for us, where there is a lot of stone and perhaps because our soil is not yet in the right condition, the discs ride over the stones and then the drill is more inclined to crab. Conditions make a massive difference to this, I’ve drilled into sprayed off turf across quite steep banks and its followed fine - because the soils is right?
It’s the most low disturbance drill I’ve seen.
With regards to tines, the Claydon man lives near us and has done a lot of demos around this area during lockdown and we had a go. I was sceptical regarding stones but it was fine. And if a Claydon is fine I’m sure a Dale, Virkar, etc would be fine. Again, apologies for drifting off topic...
 
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EddAke

Member
Mixed Farmer
Some game cover I did for a neighbour, leaving tramlines and a foot gap in every row before anyone asks. Found moisture and cut in beautifully with hardly any disturbance, apart from the bout markers!
 

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I find in brash field going slower is the only option
more weight has no benefit
I have less than 10% of this soil type so can put up with slower work rather than a separate drill
if I was all brash i would have a narrow knife coulter dale or similar
I do also keep travel speeds down for more accurate seed placement same horse power but one and half times the width
with regards to wear you do 1.5 times the area before changing discs bearings aLao last a lot longer
when we had a 4 m moore at 14 km the discs and bearing got warm in hard dry conditions
 

kiwi

Member
I find in brash field going slower is the only option
more weight has no benefit
I have less than 10% of this soil type so can put up with slower work rather than a separate drill
if I was all brash i would have a narrow knife coulter dale or similar
I do also keep travel speeds down for more accurate seed placement same horse power but one and half times the width
with regards to wear you do 1.5 times the area before changing discs bearings aLao last a lot longer
when we had a 4 m moore at 14 km the discs and bearing got warm in hard dry conditions
You have obviously a lot of experience now with the weaving gd so how have you got on setting depth without being to deep or to shallow and putting seed on the top?
 
all disc drills throw some seed Out of the slot especially at high speed and with a damp disc
if you seed some seed on the top setting the depth deeper then puts most of the seed too deep
with small seeds the majority can be hard to find In the seed trench coloured seed helps with some dressed seed

with beans big seed needs a lot of care to get it in deep enough without taking all the weight off the press wheel
and leaving an open slot
In a dry spring Winter cover crops And a layer of straw Help prevent the Top 2 inches of soil drying out too much
spring drilling early is not essential or desirable in a wet spring Reducing weed germination by later drilling has big benefits
I have a 9 m drill (controlled traffic) which with small seed crops or only 1 tonne of seed in the hopper ( end of a variety ) the weight on the press wheel has been not high enough even with Water in the drill wheels
this spring we added 3 tonnes of weight For the small seeded crops
this is a lot less of a problem with a 6m or less drill
we are now looking at ballasting
the latest gd drill with the coulters under the hopper and the airless tyres increase weight per coulter

As Posted above with brashy soils slower speeds allow the coulter to keep depth this does not slow overall drilling capacity because we can start this field a few days earlier than the heavy land we have often have to wait for the heavy land to be dry enough
many Of the wide drills I see In the usa Australia ect do not go that fast
fast drilling in the uk was used because we cultivated and had narrow drills for road Access
 

fermec860

Member
Location
Warwicshire
all disc drills throw some seed Out of the slot especially at high speed and with a damp disc
if you seed some seed on the top setting the depth deeper then puts most of the seed too deep
with small seeds the majority can be hard to find In the seed trench coloured seed helps with some dressed seed

with beans big seed needs a lot of care to get it in deep enough without taking all the weight off the press wheel
and leaving an open slot
In a dry spring Winter cover crops And a layer of straw Help prevent the Top 2 inches of soil drying out too much
spring drilling early is not essential or desirable in a wet spring Reducing weed germination by later drilling has big benefits
I have a 9 m drill (controlled traffic) which with small seed crops or only 1 tonne of seed in the hopper ( end of a variety ) the weight on the press wheel has been not high enough even with Water in the drill wheels
this spring we added 3 tonnes of weight For the small seeded crops
this is a lot less of a problem with a 6m or less drill
we are now looking at ballasting
the latest gd drill with the coulters under the hopper and the airless tyres increase weight per coulter

As Posted above with brashy soils slower speeds allow the coulter to keep depth this does not slow overall drilling capacity because we can start this field a few days earlier than the heavy land we have often have to wait for the heavy land to be dry enough
many Of the wide drills I see In the usa Australia ect do not go that fast
fast drilling in the uk was used because we cultivated and had narrow drills for road Access
When they came to demo drill I thought there was some seed left on the surface but in hindsight they new what they were doing so it takes some getting used to
 
Hi looking at doing variable seed rate with gd drill (not isobus) using soyl maps what do I need to do to acive . Drill control box is an Artemis 8000 tractor is jd 155r with 4600 screen gen 4 with premium activation any thoughts thankyou
 

Badshot

Member
Location
Kent
Hi looking at doing variable seed rate with gd drill (not isobus) using soyl maps what do I need to do to acive . Drill control box is an Artemis 8000 tractor is jd 155r with 4600 screen gen 4 with premium activation any thoughts thankyou
You will need to get the gps from the tractor as the drill isn't accurate enough for vary rate.
If the drill isn't unlocked it'll need to be, or you can use the tractor screen big it's unlocked.
It's quite involved and took me ages with Trimble screen.
 
Thanks , it's been suggested to me the jd wont talk to the drill , spoke briefly to weaving and Simon recons I need an unlock code and a cable assume the cable plugs into the Artemis and somewhere on the tractor , does not look like it's going to be that simple
 

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