6881 has a much higher tensile strenth than 7018 or 6010. i would have gone 7018 personally as 6881 rods are ridiculous money, but 6881 will be more than adequate for this imo.
Welding lift arm.
- Thread starter shumungus
- Start date
- Location
- Ballyclare Northern Ireland
This the tractor end of the arm, why the hell would I need hooks under my axle?
68.81 has a tensile strength of 790MPa vs a 70.18 tensile strength of 550 MPa, how do you figure its stronger?
Finally the picture was to show weld adhesion to the two different materials not to show 'fanciness'. All my welds look like that or better and I don"t class any of them as fancy.
68.81 has a tensile strength of 790MPa vs a 70.18 tensile strength of 550 MPa, how do you figure its stronger?
Finally the picture was to show weld adhesion to the two different materials not to show 'fanciness'. All my welds look like that or better and I don"t class any of them as fancy.
- Location
- Ballyclare Northern Ireland
Agree, went 68.81 as I had them and it's a high stress point and materials a bit unknown.
higher than 6013 is what i meant.
and both them are harder to get to look fancy than using mig.
and both them are harder to get to look fancy than using mig.
- Location
- Ballyclare Northern Ireland
7018 is only marginally higher at 550MPa than 6013 at 510MPa although the low hydrogen properties are a bonus. What has Mig got to do with my repair ? it was stick welded.
Tensile strength is only half the story when comparing stick rods... impact properties and toughness come into play, and the AWS designations are rubbish. You can get great 6013 rods, or terrible ones. 7018 are usually better because most on the market are designed for high quality joints.
I'd personally use 7018, because I can run uphill 7018 a lot nicer than I can MIG, so can do it on the tractor- and multi runs of quality 7018 will heat soak the joint and help with a natural heat treatment.
Ultimately, it just needs to be a quality joint with full double sided V prep, good fusion welds with low hydrogen.
68.81 is not a better choice than 7018. It doesn't match the parent material characteristics. Yes it will work, of course, but it's not "better" than anything else.
I'd personally use 7018, because I can run uphill 7018 a lot nicer than I can MIG, so can do it on the tractor- and multi runs of quality 7018 will heat soak the joint and help with a natural heat treatment.
Ultimately, it just needs to be a quality joint with full double sided V prep, good fusion welds with low hydrogen.
68.81 is not a better choice than 7018. It doesn't match the parent material characteristics. Yes it will work, of course, but it's not "better" than anything else.
- Location
- Ballyclare Northern Ireland
Since a 68.81 is designated as a dissimilar rod and I am unsure of the parent materials I thought it was the safest way to go. Also the previous weld was a stainless weld so thought I would repeat.
You're right enough that if the materials are completely unknown, then a gr.312 rod will cover most things, 309 even more. I get the reasoning
But 7018 covers most weldable steels including cast
- Location
- Ballyclare Northern Ireland
What process do you favour for cast exhaust manifolds?You're right enough that if the materials are completely unknown, then a gr.312 rod will cover most things, 309 even more. I get the reasoning
But 7018 covers most weldable steels including cast
bravheart
Member
- Location
- scottish borders
Just to point out be careful when welding on the tractor and not fry the electrics.
Lazy Sod
Member
- Location
- Warminster Wiltshire
You don't, but if you don't give us enough information, we are bound to think that it's the other end as needing to weld there is more common.
- Location
- Ballyclare Northern Ireland
The original question was regarding what was the proper way to weld the end on a lift arm sitting in my workshop, wouldn"t matter what end it was as the material will be the same. I was trying to keep it simple with my original straight forward question but as usual some people miss the point entirely and head off in their own pointless crusades. Ever notice some people always tell you things but never ask you anything?
Lazy Sod
Member
- Location
- Warminster Wiltshire
I don't recall ever having heard of anyone welding a new ball onto the axle end of a link arm, but what do I know.
- Location
- Ballyclare Northern Ireland
Congratulations, now you have.
Funnily enough, I’ve only ever changed the axle ends of a link arm before. I always assumed they had a harder life due to the leverage effect.
Netherfield
Member
- Location
- West Yorkshire
I did both sides years ago because the balls kept falling out on an old David Brown we used as a scraper.
Problem was TFF wasn't around then so I couldn't get abused about it.
- Location
- Ballyclare Northern Ireland
TFF is a great forum finding out stuff, weather it is by shared experience or just smart people. But some days...............................I did both sides years ago because the balls kept falling out on an old David Brown we used as a scraper.
Problem was TFF wasn't around then so I couldn't get abused about it.
- Location
- North West Wales
I did one years ago on a three or four year old tractor that had never used the link arms but ball wouldn’t move in the socket, it wasn’t seized as heat couldn’t sort it out so must of been machined/forged wrong from Waltershield. How they missed it on PDI is another question
- Location
- Larne, Northern Ireland
Have had to do it on a few of my tractors now, and know several others who have done it as well, I thought it was a quite a common practice
Lazy Sod
Member
- Location
- Warminster Wiltshire
All I can say is that in 50 years of farming, I've never had to do it. When I retired, I had a 34 year old Fiat 780 DT with 6500 hours on it. It was the main ploughing tractor for a long time. Lower link sensing too, so it took some punishment.