Welding lift arm.

[shumungus]

Have to weld an end onto lift arm of tractor. Have all the toys and would like to do it myself. am proficient in MIG and MMA all positions. Haven't stick welded in years and everything is usually in the workshop and migable. Would like to stick weld it and had a poke in the store and I have 6013, 7018 and 6881 stainless dissimilar. So any body any experience? what would you recommend, a bit of pre-heat and which rod ? I would say arm is cast steel.
@tinman @Welding Supplies Direct
TIA

 

[Highland Mule]

Have to weld an end onto lift arm of tractor. Have all the toys and would like to do it myself. am proficient in MIG and MMA all positions. Haven't stick welded in years and everything is usually in the workshop and migable. Would like to stick weld it and had a poke in the store and I have 6013, 7018 and 6881 stainless dissimilar. So any body any experience? what would you recommend, a bit of pre-heat and which rod ? I would say arm is cast steel.
@tinman @Welding Supplies Direct
TIA

Take it off and take it into the workshop?

 

[shumungus]

Take it off and take it into the workshop?

They are in the workshop but would like to have stick welded them for better penetration and strength, was always a fan of the stick welder in the heavy stuff.

 

[tinman]

Have no fear of a good mig weld.
id cut the old one off , take a few measurements first, you mightn't need then but handy if you do.
if you want to go all fancy make up a wee jig out of scrap, to keep the right angle and such.
chamfer the cut end of the link arm on both sides leaving a ridge of about 3-4mm in the middle.
clean up the end of the new eye to something similar, space it about 3mm apart and tack it up.
a wee bit of a heat to help penetration and mig it up every other side, not in the one go, a root either side and then build it up, a couple of runs is all it ill be, 1 if you have the amps.
it will pull in the first welds but adjust to suit.

 

[Jameshenry]

V out the joint well, and get at it with the mig, as long as your welds are sound it'll be fine

 

[pail of ale]

I would sooner use a 7018 than the mig for cast steel which is a very vague description of a material . I would v one side , tack the other side ,preheat ,put a root in the v (not in 1 continuous run) ,v the other side into the root you have done and weld away at a handy pace alternating sides ,to keep the work hot but not too hot , avoiding big weaves and wrapping in a fire blanket after to slow down the cooling as much as possible .I am not a qualified welder . This is only an opinion .You said you are a compitent welder so I hope this isnt overkill

 

[bumkin]

i have welded broken lift arms and new ends with a stick welder using normal rods as above clean and v out then build up in layers

 

[Mur Huwcun]

Original weld will be a MIG process. I’ve done them with MIG everytime but a 400amp plus three phase one but not running stupid amps. V the joint out, set it up with a gap and tack it up. I used some pre heat just in case and run a root either side then build it up to look as original as possible.

 

[the-mad-welder]

MIG or 7018 rods. Both are a low hydrogen process so either is good. I'd be using the MIG (technically MAG as I use a C02 mix) as that what my codings are for.

Otherwise as above. Measure and measure again, prep the edges and it'll be fine. These and replacing towing eyes are always a bit daunting but actually very simple.

 

[shumungus]

MIG or 7018 rods. Both are a low hydrogen process so either is good. I'd be using the MIG (technically MAG as I use a C02 mix) as that what my codings are for.

Otherwise as above. Measure and measure again, prep the edges and it'll be fine. These and replacing towing eyes are always a bit daunting but actually very simple.

Tried to tag you but couldn't as didn't remember the - between the words.

 

[Farmer_Joe]

MIG or 7018 rods. Both are a low hydrogen process so either is good. I'd be using the MIG (technically MAG as I use a C02 mix) as that what my codings are for.

Otherwise as above. Measure and measure again, prep the edges and it'll be fine. These and replacing towing eyes are always a bit daunting but actually very simple.

you heat towing eyes or just go at it with rods?
ive got one worn temped to just build it up but could replace?

 

[tinman]

you heat towing eyes or just go at it with rods?
ive got one worn temped to just build it up but could replace?

dont build it up anyways, its no job.
nip it off and weld on a new one.
pre heat the area before welding it yes, its best practice.

 

[the-mad-welder]

you heat towing eyes or just go at it with rods?
ive got one worn temped to just build it up but could replace?

Yep, preheat. I MIG them on, but either works. Building them up is a false economy in my opinion.

 

[Mur Huwcun]

I wouldn’t like to even think of building them up with weld as you don’t know what the heat will do to the metal and to the temper of the material. It’s not something you want to let go on you is it!!

 

[shumungus]

Just to complete this thread, used 6881 stainless rods on dc+ with ground out V and preheat, one year on and never looked back.

 

[Mouser]

Just to complete this thread, used 6881 stainless rods on dc+ with ground out V and preheat, one year on and never looked back.
View attachment 974510

You think a year is long enough for 'dont speak too soon'

 

[shumungus]

You think a year is long enough for 'dont speak too soon'

Don't want to seem 'cocky'.

 

[Lazy Sod]

Just to complete this thread, used 6881 stainless rods on dc+ with ground out V and preheat, one year on and never looked back.

Why did you weld an ordinary ball end on? Surely hook ends are essential these days.

 

[Nearly]

Why did you weld an ordinary ball end on? Surely hook ends are essential these days.

Assume it matched the other side?

 

[Bury the Trash]

Assume it matched the other side?

cut him off and weld on 2 hook ends ,way better.

6010 or better 7018 rods have higher tensile strength .
A fancy looking weld isnt necessarily stronger .