it was easier to remove too especially in ring feeders i'm not a fan of netcheaper
it was easier to remove too especially in ring feeders i'm not a fan of netcheaper
nooooooooooooooooo thats the devils work@Selectamatic
Not that close to you though...
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Oh yes i realise that.Of course.
But smaller growers have different pressures.
Twine can be applied more easily if your jd mechanism refuses to wrap
The worst , slowest baler I've ever used , rollers go smooth and bale stops spinning in dry straw ,RP12 what more do you need?
Agree with all that.Having driven and rebuilt a 575 I'd say it's one to avoid. They make a good bale of silage but need 150hp to do it, hay sticks in them, straw stops turning in them, the pick up and stub augers are easily blocked and the netwrap system is the most unreliable I've used. The 578 wasn't any better
I like my 578 but it took a few seasons to iron out the kinks. Works faultlessly now I got it second hand quite cheap because the person who owned it first couldnt work out how to fix itAgree with all that.
You should run courses to train John Deere engineers and technicians, the 575 and 578s I drove were all bought new and none of them were up to scratch. The season long demo of a 678 combi resulted in the purchase of a new Fusion.I like my 578 but it took a few seasons to iron out the kinks. Works faultlessly now I got it second hand quite cheap because the person who owned it first couldnt work out how to fix it
Have limited experience of other balers but didnt see what all the hype was about a mchale baler i used a bit. The JD bales were just as heavy and i was no slower with it when we were both at it either
The one i used would not bale straw or short hay.Had a retrofit net kit on it that never worked right too.The worst , slowest baler I've ever used , rollers go smooth and bale stops spinning in dry straw ,
I only took the net arm thing off hit it with a hammer a couple of times to straighten it out right and put it back together like the book said it should go. Someone who thought they knew best (probably a jd engineer) had put it back completley wrong. It doesnt do a lot with me now and likely never will but it did 300 bales of hay last week and only missed one and that was my faultYou should run courses to train John Deere engineers and technicians, the 575 and 578s I drove were all bought new and none of them were up to scratch. The season long demo of a 678 combi resulted in the purchase of a new Fusion.
I'd assume that wasn't the problem with the Deere's I drove, unless the factory was building them wrong. 300 bales a week would be just about bearable, we were doing more than that in a day and around 20000 a season.I only took the net arm thing off hit it with a hammer a couple of times to straighten it out right and put it back together like the book said it should go. Someone who thought they knew best (probably a jd engineer) had put it back completley wrong. It doesnt do a lot with me now and likely never will but it did 300 bales of hay last week and only missed one and that was my fault
Maybe the driver on the mchale wasnt up to much?
Why do you prefer string? Thats a new one for me!
I like my 578 but it took a few seasons to iron out the kinks. Works faultlessly now I got it second hand quite cheap because the person who owned it first couldnt work out how to fix it
Have limited experience of other balers but didnt see what all the hype was about a mchale baler i used a bit. The JD bales were just as heavy and i was no slower with it when we were both at it either
We bought in round bales made with net before we had our own baler and found when we cut it there was lots of little bits of net coming off, was difficult to remove from crop and we didnt want the animals eating it. String is easy to remove, the bales are messier but as we are all haylage now we wrap everything so it's no issue. Baler was cheaper too for being string only.
I know a few that replaced a 578 with a mchale and all say the same as you about it being a better baler. The one i had a go on was in the same field as me baling at the same time. I was making bales just as fast as he was. I had a go with the mchale and couldnt really see it was any better or faster but i only did 30odd bales with it. Maybe a better driver than me or the one that was using it would have shown more of a difference. Probably see more of a difference if i did more bales with it too its not really fair to judge it after that but at first impressions i couldnt see what the hype was about the mchale tbhI'd assume that wasn't the problem with the Deere's I drove, unless the factory was building them wrong. 300 bales a week would be just about bearable, we were doing more than that in a day and around 20000 a season.
Not sure what you mean about the driver on the McHale not being up to much Maybe I wasn't clear but after 6 seasons of JD 575, 578 and 678 they were replaced by a new Fusion.
I know what you mean about the net system on itHaving operated a 578 for over 5 seasons and more recently a F5500 McHale last 2 seasons, i have to agree and disagree with you. Whilst i agree the the 578 produces a very good silage bale, In terms of build quality, speed, and reliability they are worlds appart.
It has at best what can only be described as an unreliable netting system. Some days it works perfectly, others it can drive you mad, for no apparent reason. This is by far the worst thing about this baler
The pickup is generally good, but dont get a lump on the edge, it blocks almost every time this happens.
Also it cant match the output of a McHale, which is easily 25% faster at bailing. But we are of course comparing balers from different eras.
Overall though they are not bad balers, once you know your way around them and get used to operating it can do a very good silage bale at a reasonable pace. Ideal for farmer with a few 100 to do each year, i would not go back to contracting with one
The worst , slowest baler I've ever used , rollers go smooth and bale stops spinning in dry straw ,
Dont let the rollers go smooth?
paint them with a gritty paint or weld bar on them.