dontknowanything
Member
- Location
- Cambridge
Maybe they didn’t root much because they didn’t need to? If they yielded that well I’m guessing that’s what has happened.
Wheat after oats
- Thread starter dontknowanything
- Start date
- Location
- Oxfordshire
I'm assuming my Claydon drill will be the best bet for wheat after Oats (haven't grown them before this year) At least it just sweeps away the straw and keeps the seed in clean soil.
Also putting green waste compost on prior to drilling so hopefully nothing can go wrong !
Also putting green waste compost on prior to drilling so hopefully nothing can go wrong !
- Location
- Somerset UK
Has anyone tried using this to breakdown the stubble?
http://www.biotechnica.co.uk/products/biostimulants/bactolife-sd
Would liquid N with molasses and some compost tea work?
http://www.biotechnica.co.uk/products/biostimulants/bactolife-sd
Would liquid N with molasses and some compost tea work?
Claydon is absolutely perfect for the job,
Hartwig
Member
- Location
- Scheggerott, Germany
What risk are you afraid of ?? Allelopathic ?
How deep have you run the carrier and for how long before drilling ?? Are you setting up a test plot without carrier to see if it`s worth it ??
2 simons effect at its worst after Oats
I have done my testing in previous year and don't need any more evidence - cultivate Oat stubbles IMO its not a situation where you can consistently and reliably zero till with a disc drill
carrier is working maybe 2" - not deep but enough to get some residue / soil mix to aid faster breakdown, as along as possible between cultivation and drill .......... all winter idealy but this year it wont be long as late harvested spring oats are followed by wheat
Hartwig
Member
- Location
- Scheggerott, Germany
What about mixing some prilled lime with the seed ??
And rather use the tine drill than the disc drill to sweep some straw out of the row ??
Would it be better to have the straw raw chopped, so maybe remove the rigid knifes from the chopper or might it be better to have it as fine grinded as possible, so maybe leave longer stubbles and go over with a proper flail mower ??
I don`t want to put you off your carrier - fine if it works. But I want to understand what`s going on and being the problem to find my own solutions for different situations.
And rather use the tine drill than the disc drill to sweep some straw out of the row ??
Would it be better to have the straw raw chopped, so maybe remove the rigid knifes from the chopper or might it be better to have it as fine grinded as possible, so maybe leave longer stubbles and go over with a proper flail mower ??
I don`t want to put you off your carrier - fine if it works. But I want to understand what`s going on and being the problem to find my own solutions for different situations.
I should of added we do use the leading discs on the claydon when drilling in chopped straw, the a share does a great job of mixing the top tilth and moving any stubble n straw out the way .
- Location
- NSW, Newstralya
err, I love oat straw, great residue in a zero till situation
zero till DOES NOT WORK without retaining groundcover & limiting compaction / traffic
once again, I will say im not familiar with your situation, just talking from 30 yrs zero till experience
zero till DOES NOT WORK without retaining groundcover & limiting compaction / traffic
once again, I will say im not familiar with your situation, just talking from 30 yrs zero till experience
TelesnaAg
Member
- Location
- Portland, Victoria - Australia
- Location
- NSW, Newstralya
err, no to Twitter
FB & Instagram are the limit of my social media existence at this stage . . .
PH around 7 - 8
FB & Instagram are the limit of my social media existence at this stage . . .
PH around 7 - 8