wooden fencing

S J H

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Bedfordshire
Not really @jimmer, put both ends in or one end and a peg, use a good line rather than bale string as it won't spring back, if you have one.

Mark the middle of your rail, and mark the holes. I dig them deeper so you can drop some dry mix in and lift the post to the right height.

I'd use a dry mix, so you can tamp it hard, saves waiting a day until you can put the rails on, and I think it's a better job.

I can't think of any other tips at the moment, but if I do I'll let you know.
 

S J H

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Bedfordshire
put top rail on to get distances ?
use spare rails as props while concrete sets ?
are coke bottle spirit levels accurate ?

Yes you could put the top rail on to set them up, sometime it's easier but other time it makes it more difficult IMO. If the concrete is a dry mix, you won't need props.

What's a coke bottle spirit level? Is that a @jimmer invention?!
 

24/7 farming

Member
Location
Donegal
we replaced 2 straight runs of fence at home last year, fence was not going to be level as site was sloping so started with digging holes at each end and set and levelled the two end posts
as it was to front of house we measured between these posts and divided up into equal distances for the intermediate posts to be put in (we cut rails to suit)
Ran builders line from bottom to bottom of each end post and marked centres for post holes on ground & dug them out, deeper that required, so the posts can be easily levelled
Then moved line up to the top edge of each end post (we ran it over a small nail tapped into the top edge to stop it slipping) and used this to set the height & line for the intermediate posts (we set one of middle posts first and used it as extra support for the line, useful if its windy or a very long run)
Set the posts in good dry concrete and with good enough depth they should not need propping, oh and if cattle or anything are going to be able to use them as a scratching post dig bigger holes or they will move them! (thankfully that lesson was learnt before putting this fence in)!

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ewald

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Mid-Lincs
Is concrete a good idea round wooden posts? Some thinks it causes them to rot, as water is trapped - stone or soil drains away allowing the post to dry which prolongs its life. This has happened to a 40 year old post and rail fence here - the 2 posts next to the gateposts were concreted in and have rotted through - all of the rest in rammed soil are still fine.
 

trev7530

Member
Location
Cornwall
Don't think it makes any difference, when driven fencing stakes rot and break its at ground level, the bit in the ground is still good, found the same with posts that have been concreted.
 

Grouse

Member
I have just replaced 30 gateposts and latching posts this last week - all the old ones were set in concrete and have rotted away over the last 15 to 34 years. Only one of the posts had not rotted in the ground - this was a normal pressure treated post set in concrete in 1982 but it had been painted with bitumen below ground prior to being set in concrete. She was the only post not to rot in the concrete - though she had rotted above ground in the gate hook holes.

If you must set in concrete painting with bitumen does work. Apparently it is the lime in the cement which draws out and neutralises the tanalith in pressure treated timber.
 

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