Doing it for the kids
Member
The only thing with gullies is they are a pain driving over them all the time. Depending on the amount of water you could just slope the pads into each other and down to a central drain point?
Yard gulley
- Thread starter bitwrx
- Start date
Thanks for continued input. In response to @chaffcutter's sensible suggestion, I've got my pens and pencils out. (No ruler unfortunately.)
Current situation:
Water pools on three level slabs (which weren't supposed to be level when laid 30 years ago, but appear to be now!), leading to broken concrete as a result of hydraulic action at the seams between slabs. The broken (hatched) bits need replacing.
To prevent a recurrence, we need to get the water to flow off as best we can, roughly in the position of the X on the right hand side. We don't want to have to re-lay the whole yard.
Picture below shows what we've settled on:
Solid purple line is the path of the gulley. Dashed purple lines are the borders of the new concrete.
The gulley itself is going to be 300mm wide, with a little dish profile, similar to the precast sections @bert suggests above. We're pouring that first, and it'll be 300mm deep. The rest of the concrete will be 200mm thick. On the top side, the slope will be 1 in 20, as per existing. On the bottom side it'll be 1 in 10, which is about as steep as we reckon we can go without making it too uncomfortable to drive across.
Slight modification from the original post is that, having measured a good yard gulley that formed part of the old dairy yards, we've increased the fall on the gulley to 1 in 200.
The triangular slab on the left hand edge of the yard will slope down from left to right, so will flow straight into the gulley.
They're cutting the old concrete out tomorrow, prepping the sub base on Mon, and doing the first pour on Tues finishing on Wed. Will let you know how it goes. ?
Current situation:
Water pools on three level slabs (which weren't supposed to be level when laid 30 years ago, but appear to be now!), leading to broken concrete as a result of hydraulic action at the seams between slabs. The broken (hatched) bits need replacing.
To prevent a recurrence, we need to get the water to flow off as best we can, roughly in the position of the X on the right hand side. We don't want to have to re-lay the whole yard.
Picture below shows what we've settled on:
Solid purple line is the path of the gulley. Dashed purple lines are the borders of the new concrete.
The gulley itself is going to be 300mm wide, with a little dish profile, similar to the precast sections @bert suggests above. We're pouring that first, and it'll be 300mm deep. The rest of the concrete will be 200mm thick. On the top side, the slope will be 1 in 20, as per existing. On the bottom side it'll be 1 in 10, which is about as steep as we reckon we can go without making it too uncomfortable to drive across.
Slight modification from the original post is that, having measured a good yard gulley that formed part of the old dairy yards, we've increased the fall on the gulley to 1 in 200.
The triangular slab on the left hand edge of the yard will slope down from left to right, so will flow straight into the gulley.
They're cutting the old concrete out tomorrow, prepping the sub base on Mon, and doing the first pour on Tues finishing on Wed. Will let you know how it goes. ?
- Location
- Orkney Islands
I would say your initial problem wasn't the water lying on top of the concrete but that of poor bottoming under the concrete, best see to that before laying the new slabs
Take plenty of pictures of them forming the gulley please, as I’m thinking of doing the same and not buying precast ones
Skintagain
Member
- Location
- Perched on the Pennines
My mate sat 4” guttering into his old places yard in front of his shed to create a gully to stop his open fronted shed get water blown in. Removed it when the conc had half gone off I think. It was small enough not to drop in with wheels when crossing it. You might need more capacity though