Cleaning a combine radiator

MF's product is a 15w/40 grade. There are 20w/50's and 60's, but you won't get the correct specification in those viscosity's.
The 15w/40 shouldn't be a problem at all, even in this heat, if you're using a good quality lubricant. I just hope there isn't an underlying issue.
 

devonshire farmer

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Devon
MF's product is a 15w/40 grade. There are 20w/50's and 60's, but you won't get the correct specification in those viscosity's.
The 15w/40 shouldn't be a problem at all, even in this heat, if you're using a good quality lubricant. I just hope there isn't an underlying issue.

We have had the pipe that draws the oil from the sump crack in the past, engine out job, symptoms are very familiar but hoping it's due to the heat this time
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
We lost oil pressure on a Perkins in a Manitou due to a plug loosening and coming out of the rocker shaft. Removed rocker cover and plug was lying there. Luckily it hadn't got down a push rod hole. Screwed it back in with some loctite and pressure restored.
 

devonshire farmer

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Devon
We lost oil pressure on a Perkins in a Manitou due to a plug loosening and coming out of the rocker shaft. Removed rocker cover and plug was lying there. Luckily it hadn't got down a push rod hole. Screwed it back in with some loctite and pressure restored.
Cheers may be worth a bit of investigation, it’s the twin head valmet engine in the combine
 

Gapples

Member
Can you wash it while it’s running? Makes a big difference if it’s warm and the fan is pulling the junk through.

Absolutely yes, in fact this is how Claas taught us to clean out radiators on training courses.
Always wash off the engine afterwards though...
 

Neddy flanders

Member
BASE UK Member
Problem is that someone in the past (second hand combine) has pressure washed or run it with screen door open. The first three layers are clean but with a really strong torch the back two layers are caked with something resembling wattle and daub . All thistle down caked hard. No air line from either side will shift it.
Spent four hours today with a very fine straight piece of wire poking approximately 40% of the holes in the rad through at the same time as shining a head torch and blasting with air line. The dealer I bought it from is getting a serious email on Monday.
 

David.

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
J11 M40
If you are taking rad out, which is a major ballache, perhaps replace with a more open cored one?
Probably not disastrously dear from rad specialist?.. when set against a cooked engine.
Had to wash ours out last week, airline usually does enough to keep it in the green, but previous owner must have used to scrape it with a shovel:eek:
 

Gapples

Member
If you are taking rad out, which is a major ballache, perhaps replace with a more open cored one?
Probably not disastrously dear from rad specialist?.. when set against a cooked engine.
Had to wash ours out last week, airline usually does enough to keep it in the green, but previous owner must have used to scrape it with a shovel:eek:


My thoughts exactly, that was our repair of choice when a fine cored radiator because impossibility clogged.
Take it, have a radiator specialist fit a high clearance core, that should be the end of your troubles, anything small enough to get past the rotary screen or other pre cleaning devices should pass straight through the radiator.
 
I made a right angle nozzle for the pressure washer so I can wash the rad with the roto screen propped open and the engine running. Be careful as it is very hard on the wrists. Try it first before using it as the first time I tried it out it twisted my arm round and clamped my hand holding the trigger on....... It's not funny unless it happens to someone else.
 

devonshire farmer

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Devon
Our MF 36 has had at least 4 pressure sensors in the last 11 years.
Dealer has them in stock so can't be just ours.
Well the pressure when cold is reading around 4 bar on combine screen and also on a gauge the mechanic plumbed in, after about an hour in work it’s dropping to the cutout which is around 2.5 bar, it’s getting gradually worse so less time between stopping so we’ve ordered the pipes in the bottom end to hopefully cure the problem!
 

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