Simtech owners Thoughts, tips, advice

[Renaultman]

I've been meaning to do this for ages, sorry if it's been done before and would be interested in others doing it for other drills, also interested in hearing from other tined DD users.
Just going into our second season with ours. A bog standard 3m box drill.
First impressions are.
Really happy with wheat and Bean establishment
We can use it as a conventional drill on cultivated land.
OSR was a complete disaster, basically a write off. May not be the drill's fault we didn't slug pellet or use an insecticide, pigeon control was poor,and probably should have double rolled.
We also probably drilled to deep.
The only other issue is stopping trash riding up the tines and bridging rather than flowing through.
I'm thinking of trying diverters like some cultivators have to throw the trash to one side and also thinking it may have been a one off year as had trouble getting it to flow through all cultivation equipment.
Things I have done
Fit side marker lights
Hopper cameras
Things I would like to know
How far can I wear the tines down?
How do I reseed pastures,?
Get more success with small seeds.
Conclusions
It's a great drill for the money.

 

[steveR]

I've been meaning to do this for ages, sorry if it's been done before and would be interested in others doing it for other drills, also interested in hearing from other tined DD users.

Like this...

A Novice and his Aitchison Grassfarmer.

I have been mulling and exploring the possible use of a basic DD tine drill such as found in the Aitchison and Sim-Tec range for while now, to use initially on game and stewardship drilling, with an increase next year onwards, as ground comes out of my old Stewardship and transitions into other...

thefarmingforum.co.uk

 

[Renaultman]

Like this...

A Novice and his Aitchison Grassfarmer.

I have been mulling and exploring the possible use of a basic DD tine drill such as found in the Aitchison and Sim-Tec range for while now, to use initially on game and stewardship drilling, with an increase next year onwards, as ground comes out of my old Stewardship and transitions into other...

thefarmingforum.co.uk

Yes sorry, I did search Simtech and it didn't come up.

 

[Bury the Trash]

easy enough to find.

SimTech Aitchison Drills

Have any of you had experience of or have any thoughts on the SimTech Aitchison drills used in an arable situation, particularly clay soils? Would it be realistic alternative to the John Deeres, Dales, Moore etc? It looks a blissfully simple machine and the T slot looks less likely to open up...

thefarmingforum.co.uk

 

[neilo]

Like this...

A Novice and his Aitchison Grassfarmer.

I have been mulling and exploring the possible use of a basic DD tine drill such as found in the Aitchison and Sim-Tec range for while now, to use initially on game and stewardship drilling, with an increase next year onwards, as ground comes out of my old Stewardship and transitions into other...

thefarmingforum.co.uk

Yes, but that’s not a Simtech. Similar, but not quite the same, although a lot of similar principles and experiences will apply of course.

I bought a secondhand Simtech in 2013, then replaced it with a new one in 2016, courtesy of the Welsh grant scheme. The thicker tines on the new one a far better ime, and the points/T boots are much much stronger.
on the old drill I kept a bucketful of worn points to replace any where the tips broke off on stones, whereas the new (in 2016) drill is still running on the original points. Admittedly I don’t drill vast acreages, but the difference is staggering.

 

[steveR]

Yes, but that’s not a Simtech. Similar, but not quite the same, although a lot of similar principles and experiences will apply of course.

I bought a secondhand Simtech in 2013, then replaced it with a new one in 2016, courtesy of the Welsh grant scheme. The thicker tines on the new one a far better ime, and the points/T boots are much much stronger.
on the old drill I kept a bucketful of worn points to replace any where the tips broke off on stones, whereas the new (in 2016) drill is still running on the original points. Admittedly I don’t drill vast acreages, but the difference is staggering.

Very true, but the OP said:

"I've been meaning to do this for ages, sorry if it's been done before and would be interested in others doing it for other drills, also interested in hearing from other tined DD users."

 

[Jsmith2211]

@Renaultman Any photos of the hopper cameras? And did you have to fit a light to be able to see inside the hopper, or just leave the lid open? we've just bought one and its the one thing ive seen that it really is lacking is any form of level indicator... even the old sulky had a quite dodgey indicator arm that kind of gave you a rough idea of how much was left. Also when you drill into cultivated land what cultivations are you doing and how firm+level must the soil be? My stubbles are all far too uneven to direct drill into, the tramlines for certain have to be cultivated and the rest of the field is just quite up and down from ploughing etc. My plan was to run the superflow through it then powerharrow (then maybe roll if needed?) Ideally i'd put something like a sumo through it because that would leave it quite level and firm i belive but I dont own one (and having just bought a drill we cant really even afford a set of discs)

On reseeding pastures, we've done a bit of an experiment putting kale direct into a topped grass field. Not a great grass field so no loss if it doesnt work. Just dropped the drill in and went, and seems like theres some stuff growing. You'd be very surprised at how little it has ripped the grass up really. i'd say just drill it then roll maybe after its got going just to push any lumps down?

 

[Renaultman]

@Renaultman Any photos of the hopper cameras? And did you have to fit a light to be able to see inside the hopper, or just leave the lid open? we've just bought one and its the one thing ive seen that it really is lacking is any form of level indicator... even the old sulky had a quite dodgey indicator arm that kind of gave you a rough idea of how much was left. Also when you drill into cultivated land what cultivations are you doing and how firm+level must the soil be? My stubbles are all far too uneven to direct drill into, the tramlines for certain have to be cultivated and the rest of the field is just quite up and down from ploughing etc. My plan was to run the superflow through it then powerharrow (then maybe roll if needed?) Ideally i'd put something like a sumo through it because that would leave it quite level and firm i belive but I dont own one (and having just bought a drill we cant really even afford a set of discs)

On reseeding pastures, we've done a bit of an experiment putting kale direct into a topped grass field. Not a great grass field so no loss if it doesnt work. Just dropped the drill in and went, and seems like theres some stuff growing. You'd be very surprised at how little it has ripped the grass up really. i'd say just drill it then roll maybe after its got going just to push any lumps down?

I just bolted the cameras onto the centre divider, one in each direction, they work better with the cover off, they are day night ones (just cheapies off Amazon)
We drilled straight after the Xpress not rolled or anything, the best was rolled after but it was late in the autumn and not all of it got rolled. It came equally as well as that put in with the system disc Vaddy

 

[neilo]

@Renaultman Any photos of the hopper cameras? And did you have to fit a light to be able to see inside the hopper, or just leave the lid open? we've just bought one and its the one thing ive seen that it really is lacking is any form of level indicator... even the old sulky had a quite dodgey indicator arm that kind of gave you a rough idea of how much was left. Also when you drill into cultivated land what cultivations are you doing and how firm+level must the soil be? My stubbles are all far too uneven to direct drill into, the tramlines for certain have to be cultivated and the rest of the field is just quite up and down from ploughing etc. My plan was to run the superflow through it then powerharrow (then maybe roll if needed?) Ideally i'd put something like a sumo through it because that would leave it quite level and firm i belive but I dont own one (and having just bought a drill we cant really even afford a set of discs)

On reseeding pastures, we've done a bit of an experiment putting kale direct into a topped grass field. Not a great grass field so no loss if it doesnt work. Just dropped the drill in and went, and seems like theres some stuff growing. You'd be very surprised at how little it has ripped the grass up really. i'd say just drill it then roll maybe after its got going just to push any lumps down?

My first Simtech had an arm/internal ballcock system on it as a level indicator iirc. In reality it was next to useless though, as it only really showed when the seed level had dropped below about a quarter, not when you were empty enough to fit another 500kg bag of seed in. In small seed sowing, it was obviously always showing as empty.

Asto drilling into cultivated soil, I normally drill following a pass (or two) with a Shortdisc with a packer on the back, when conditions aren’t suitable for DD. Obviously need to wind the back roller down to reduce drilling depth in loosened soil, but works well enough.

Why do you need to cultivate the tramlines? Presumably they are in the same place every year, so why not leave them solid (unless you’ve had to make ruts down them maybe) and accept the seed won’t grow on them to kill later?

 

[Jsmith2211]

My first Simtech had an arm/internal ballcock system on it as a level indicator iirc. In reality it was next to useless though, as it only really showed when the seed level had dropped below about a quarter, not when you were empty enough to fit another 500kg bag of seed in. In small seed sowing, it was obviously always showing as empty.

Asto drilling into cultivated soil, I normally drill following a pass (or two) with a Shortdisc with a packer on the back, when conditions aren’t suitable for DD. Obviously need to wind the back roller down to reduce drilling depth in loosened soil, but works well enough.

Why do you need to cultivate the tramlines? Presumably they are in the same place every year, so why not leave them solid (unless you’ve had to make ruts down them maybe) and accept the seed won’t grow on them to kill later?

Ruts. Foot and a half deep in many many places…. Need to start doing my own spraying but not got the time at the moment. Got one pair of fields he’s sprayed when it was far too wet and the ruts are a foot+ deep over the entire field. Most fields have 4-6 inch deep ruts across the field.

 

[Matt]

Any one got any suggestions to.combat this.
Aitchisons drill, unless prefect conditions just blocks.

Straw removed, had some.very light rain last night, made stubble damp, and missed bit.of Straw, or if the stubble was lay and longer just blocks.
Really disappointed with it.

Cultivated headlands to try and disperse small piles of straw and it's worse.

Had similar issue going into spring oats stubble last autumn. Had to wait for the stubble to be perfectly crisp dry for it to flow.

 

[Renaultman]

View attachment 1133110

Any one got any suggestions to.combat this.
Aitchisons drill, unless prefect conditions just blocks.

Straw removed, had some.very light rain last night, made stubble damp, and missed bit.of Straw, or if the stubble was lay and longer just blocks.
Really disappointed with it.

Cultivated headlands to try and disperse small piles of straw and it's worse.

Had similar issue going into spring oats stubble last autumn. Had to wait for the stubble to be perfectly crisp dry for it to flow.

I had similar issues last year, rolling in front helps, I contemplated hanging some thin strips of steel between the tines, similar to the old style bale sledges or maybe fitting a diverter on the tines to throw the trash to the side before it gets to the first bend but haven't done anything yet. It drilled my OSR ok, even going through the chopped straw.

 

[steveR]

View attachment 1133110

Any one got any suggestions to.combat this.
Aitchisons drill, unless prefect conditions just blocks.

Straw removed, had some.very light rain last night, made stubble damp, and missed bit.of Straw, or if the stubble was lay and longer just blocks.
Really disappointed with it.

Cultivated headlands to try and disperse small piles of straw and it's worse.

Had similar issue going into spring oats stubble last autumn. Had to wait for the stubble to be perfectly crisp dry for it to flow.

Dry and rooted crop residue is best, then they will cope with silly amounts of growth. Stubbles do not want cultivating IME, but if you do, get a roll behind whatever you use. I am drilling into chopped oat stubble next week, and I will see how that goes...

Speed can sometimes help too, keeps the trash really moving through quickly, but goes against the zero till mindset I was once told, as you get more soil movement!

What depth are you drilling at?

 

[Renaultman]

Dry and rooted crop residue is best, then they will cope with silly amounts of growth. Stubbles do not want cultivating IME, but if you do, get a roll behind whatever you use. I am drilling into chopped oat stubble next week, and I will see how that goes...

Speed can sometimes help too, keeps the trash really moving through quickly, but goes against the zero till mindset I was once told, as you get more soil movement!

What depth are you drilling at?

I drilled some really trashy stuff at the end of of last year. Following a set of heavy discs, it worked remarkably well for a paddle it in rescue .ission.
Oat stubbles are often really fluffy but give a great following wheat.

 

[Wigeon]

View attachment 1133110

Any one got any suggestions to.combat this.
Aitchisons drill, unless prefect conditions just blocks.

Straw removed, had some.very light rain last night, made stubble damp, and missed bit.of Straw, or if the stubble was lay and longer just blocks.
Really disappointed with it.

Cultivated headlands to try and disperse small piles of straw and it's worse.

Had similar issue going into spring oats stubble last autumn. Had to wait for the stubble to be perfectly crisp dry for it to flow.

Is that 24 tines in 3m?

Solution 1: take a load of tines out. Get rid of the opening discs as they don't do much anyway.

Solution 2: turn it into a 4m by putting some wings on, and lose the front discs.

I tried Solution 2- still have the wings somewhere if you'd like them. Worked pretty well really, though sub-optimal for road work...

 

[steveR]

Is that 24 tines in 3m?

Solution 1: take a load of tines out. Get rid of the opening discs as they don't do much anyway.

Solution 2: turn it into a 4m by putting some wings on, and lose the front discs.

I tried Solution 2- still have the wings somewhere if you'd like them. Worked pretty well really, though sub-optimal for road work...

I was going to ask what widths those tines were on when I looked more closely at teh pic...

The discs are essential.... in grass or drilling into growing crops I find. They'll cut the vegetation reasonably well, if the ground is hard enough!

In lighter ground or worked areas, I agree, they are of little use, I slack mine right off...

 

[Kevtherev]

View attachment 1133110

Any one got any suggestions to.combat this.
Aitchisons drill, unless prefect conditions just blocks.

Straw removed, had some.very light rain last night, made stubble damp, and missed bit.of Straw, or if the stubble was lay and longer just blocks.
Really disappointed with it.

Cultivated headlands to try and disperse small piles of straw and it's worse.

Had similar issue going into spring oats stubble last autumn. Had to wait for the stubble to be perfectly crisp dry for it to flow.

Never cultivate stubbles just go straight in is best.
Mine just takes straw up if it’s been pre cultivated.(Duncan Renovator)
Rolling beforehand does help though.

 

[Matt]

Never cultivate stubbles just go straight in is best.
Mine just takes straw up if it’s been pre cultivated.(Duncan Renovator)
Rolling beforehand does help though.

I had to cultivate the headland to try and spread all the lumps of straw the drill dragged. All because a small amount of drizzle. Hardly needed the wiper.

 

[Will Blackburn]

Drill headlands first or first and last 1/2 rate?

 

[Old apprentice]

Would a stubble take help?