multi power
Member
- Location
- pembrokeshire
Sorry but that's not correct, the way to solve it once and for all is one of them red tractors with a perkins engine
Ford 7740 dual power
- Thread starter John 1594
- Start date
John 1594
Member
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
I could sort it in less than half hour.
It would be on the low loader and booked into cheffins sale in 20 minutes if i had a 40k tractor towing the trailer
and in my eyes, thats the best place for it.
- Location
- Lincolnshire
If your technology repair level has peaked at pre 40 series and you are going to be beaten for anything after you are doomed!
Your arse
Fair enough the tractor is a bit cattle trucked do you think any other make would have fared any better with the pony club?
Vincent
Member
- Location
- Kildare Ireland
With the advice above all in the 4wd system is covered for a good trouble shooting session and enough info to trash it out.
- Location
- Larne, Northern Ireland
Think on 10series the alternator effects the 4wd? Maybe the 40 series could be the same? I could be totally wrong tho
tealdog038
Member
- Location
- New Zealand
If its stuck in 4wd i would just put a switch on 1 of the solenoid wires to break the circuit, that way it will still be getting its 12-8v or whatever it needs when the circuit is joined again. I wouldnt waste alot of time on it as from my experience SOME of them horsey people dont pay their bills.
fermerboy
Member
- Location
- Banffshire
Ordinary oil in the brake reservoir will goose the seals in the master cylinders and the piston seals in the back axle most definitely. Drain it out and refill with LHM you might get lucky.
Every 40 I have ever seen has a propshaft that has collars at both ends, undo the 5mm Allen stud in the middle of the spline collar, slides back on to the shaft and it drops out, piece of p*ss. If it's a white roof with a loader then the front axle bush will be worn to hell and the front collar spline will be too.
There is no external pipe feeding the 4wd pack, its all inside the box operated from the valve chest on the RH side under the steps/gear levers.
4WD solenoid is on the right hand side just under the gear levers. Number 7B on the diagram is the one.
Interchangeable with the one above it (7A) if need be I think.
Here is the fault finding flow chart for a 40series too, this one is a SLE but its the same.
I think its 12v to the solenoid to make the 4wd disengage so if its electrical it should be a really easy fix.
Check and see if there is a fuse blown, or if the switch is working, seen them full of dust and not contacting inside.
Failing that run 12v from the battery to the solenoid and hope!!!
If that doesn't work its most likely that the low pressure circuit is wrong, stick a 400psi gauge in the line and it should read about 300 odd.
If its low then there is a multitude of reasons it could be, pump, control valve(inside the PTO pack) or leakage some other way, if its low then the dual power pack and PTO packs could easily burn out as there won't be enough pressure to grip them up in operation.
They really are not difficult to work on, the Dual power ones are simple tractors. biggest half of the backend is just a glorified 5000 anyway, I'm no trained mechanic and I can fix most stuff on ours myself.
Every 40 I have ever seen has a propshaft that has collars at both ends, undo the 5mm Allen stud in the middle of the spline collar, slides back on to the shaft and it drops out, piece of p*ss. If it's a white roof with a loader then the front axle bush will be worn to hell and the front collar spline will be too.
There is no external pipe feeding the 4wd pack, its all inside the box operated from the valve chest on the RH side under the steps/gear levers.
4WD solenoid is on the right hand side just under the gear levers. Number 7B on the diagram is the one.
Interchangeable with the one above it (7A) if need be I think.
Here is the fault finding flow chart for a 40series too, this one is a SLE but its the same.
I think its 12v to the solenoid to make the 4wd disengage so if its electrical it should be a really easy fix.
Check and see if there is a fuse blown, or if the switch is working, seen them full of dust and not contacting inside.
Failing that run 12v from the battery to the solenoid and hope!!!
If that doesn't work its most likely that the low pressure circuit is wrong, stick a 400psi gauge in the line and it should read about 300 odd.
If its low then there is a multitude of reasons it could be, pump, control valve(inside the PTO pack) or leakage some other way, if its low then the dual power pack and PTO packs could easily burn out as there won't be enough pressure to grip them up in operation.
They really are not difficult to work on, the Dual power ones are simple tractors. biggest half of the backend is just a glorified 5000 anyway, I'm no trained mechanic and I can fix most stuff on ours myself.
Last edited:
Stuck 4wd is a common problem with those tractors. generally the solenoid or footbrakje potentiometers..
John 1594
Member
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
[QUOTE="fermerboy, post: 2658428, member: 190"]Ordinary oil in the brake reservoir will goose the seals in the master cylinders and the piston seals in the back axle most definitely. Drain it out and refill with LHM you might get lucky.
Every 40 I have ever seen has a propshaft that has collars at both ends, undo the 5mm Allen stud in the middle of the spline collar, slides back on to the shaft and it drops out, piece of p*ss. If it's a white roof with a loader then the front axle bush will be worn to hell and the front collar spline will be too.
There is no external pipe feeding the 4wd pack, its all inside the box operated from the valve chest on the RH side under the steps/gear levers.
4WD solenoid is on the right hand side just under the gear levers. Number 7B on the diagram is the one.
View attachment 354914
Interchangeable with the one above it (7A) if need be I think.
Here is the fault finding flow chart for a 40series too, this one is a SLE but its the same.
View attachment 354918
I think its 12v to the solenoid to make the 4wd disengage so if its electrical it should be a really easy fix.
Check and see if there is a fuse blown, or if the switch is working, seen them full of dust and not contacting inside.
Failing that run 12v from the battery to the solenoid and hope!!!
If that doesn't work its most likely that the low pressure circuit is wrong, stick a 400psi gauge in the line and it should read about 300 odd.
If its low then there is a multitude of reasons it could be, pump, control valve(inside the PTO pack) or leakage some other way, if its low then the dual power pack and PTO packs could easily burn out as there won't be enough pressure to grip them up in operation.
They really are not difficult to work on, the Dual power ones are simple tractors. biggest half of the backend is just a glorified 5000 anyway, I'm no trained mechanic and I can fix most stuff on ours myself.[/QUOTE]
He been running the entire back end on JD Hy-gard since he got it....thats probably helped.
Still cant see where plain old hydraulic oil will fluff the brake seals, unless they are made of chocolate, Hydraulic oil certainly isnt as caustic as automotive brake fluid, which would probably mess them up
Every 40 I have ever seen has a propshaft that has collars at both ends, undo the 5mm Allen stud in the middle of the spline collar, slides back on to the shaft and it drops out, piece of p*ss. If it's a white roof with a loader then the front axle bush will be worn to hell and the front collar spline will be too.
There is no external pipe feeding the 4wd pack, its all inside the box operated from the valve chest on the RH side under the steps/gear levers.
4WD solenoid is on the right hand side just under the gear levers. Number 7B on the diagram is the one.
View attachment 354914
Interchangeable with the one above it (7A) if need be I think.
Here is the fault finding flow chart for a 40series too, this one is a SLE but its the same.
View attachment 354918
I think its 12v to the solenoid to make the 4wd disengage so if its electrical it should be a really easy fix.
Check and see if there is a fuse blown, or if the switch is working, seen them full of dust and not contacting inside.
Failing that run 12v from the battery to the solenoid and hope!!!
If that doesn't work its most likely that the low pressure circuit is wrong, stick a 400psi gauge in the line and it should read about 300 odd.
If its low then there is a multitude of reasons it could be, pump, control valve(inside the PTO pack) or leakage some other way, if its low then the dual power pack and PTO packs could easily burn out as there won't be enough pressure to grip them up in operation.
They really are not difficult to work on, the Dual power ones are simple tractors. biggest half of the backend is just a glorified 5000 anyway, I'm no trained mechanic and I can fix most stuff on ours myself.[/QUOTE]
He been running the entire back end on JD Hy-gard since he got it....thats probably helped.
Still cant see where plain old hydraulic oil will fluff the brake seals, unless they are made of chocolate, Hydraulic oil certainly isnt as caustic as automotive brake fluid, which would probably mess them up
As said if it won't come out of 4wd remove the propshaft. Just remember that if you do work out what's wrong to either refit the shaft of disable the switch or something, as it makes a hell of a bang every time you brake, as the 4wd gets engaged and the drop box goes from zero to 40kph in an instant. Iyswim.
gwspark
Member
Check brake fluid level. If it's low will cause the light to flicker.
John 1594
Member
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
Done that, refilled it, all the lights off, still jammed in 4wd....have left it alone now, its not worth wasting time over, got stuff to get ready for harvest