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Try Claddex 02476 650555 - they seem to stock a lot of fibre cement bits and pieces that nobody else does.

Unfortunately it is not as easy as that. The cranked profile is obsolete, nobody makes anything like that now. The likehood is that more sheets will be cracked so a new shed is the only option!

I bought a building from Kit Buildings last year. Seemed a good company to deal with and definitely CE marked as they sent me a bit of paper to prove it!(y)

Best go with what Steadmans say and you are half way to having an insulated building! Will make a big difference inside.

40mm composite panel? Probably the most expensive option, but no condensation and will keep the solar guys happy.

Your contractor is correct, in a fashion! Anti condensation sheets require ventilation at both the eaves and ridge to work properly otherwise any moisture that collects in the fleece lining will not evaporate and just drip. Fibre cement would be the better option is you want to make the building...

If you were going to fix composite panel over an existing box profile roof sheet, you would have to take out any fixings which were on the crown (top) of the sheet ie lap stitchers. To fix the new composite sheet you would use a longer fixing to go through the existing sheet and into the purlin...

Fibre cement fillers or closers would be the best - this link should show them https://www.marleyeternit.co.uk/~/media/Files/Product-Files/Profiled-Sheeting/Brochures/Profile-6-Eaves-fittings-installation-guide.pdf Cost about £10 ish for fillers and £7 ish for closers as a guide.

Try Kitbuildings 02476659767. Seem a good bunch to deal with and price was pretty good. Interestingly they supply Eternit fibre cement not the cheaper imported sheets.

Not Coverworld, Steadmans or Thomas Panels. It is a Coilcolor / Colorpro Systems profile - try Coilcolour customer services 01633 223 854 for info. If you only want a couple of sheets which aren't very long, any of the above manufacturers will hand fold them to match the profile. Only difference...

What???? :scratchhead:

Use an expansion/movement joint. Up to 45m you don't need them, 45 - 75m the roof should have 1 joint and from 75 - 105m it should have 2 joints, so eventually your roof at 300ft should have 2 joints. Now is the ideal time to put one in and it will make sheeting a whole lot easier.

Fibre cement weighs 17kg/sqm when laid (this includes laps) and you will have about 500 sqm of sheeting on your roof. This gives a total of about 8.5t. Allowing for the fact asbestos was heavier, your are looking at between 9-10t in total.

Full re roof. As per other post, 10 year guarantee means nothing if the company is no longer in business. You have several other options:- 1. You could overclad and could insulate at the same time if you require an insulated roof. Material cost more than fibre cement, but you save any asbestos...

0.5mm is fine for wall sheeting - most buildings are supplied with this, but if you want a stronger sheet (for whatever reason) go for 0.7mm. On smaller buildings the cost difference will be negligible, but on larger buildings can be quite substantial. Polyester coated sheets are cheaper than...

Don't want to confuse matters, but if it is condensation that is causing the problem, sealing the laps is the last thing you want to do. Condensation will run down the sheet above and when it gets to the lap any moisture which gets between the 2 sheets will be trapped because of the mastic seal...

Are you referring to the end laps or the side laps of the sheets? If side laps, as per Tinman Steels, mastic sealant and stitchers should be sufficient - generally the corrugations of the sheet (going across) will start with a downturn and finish on a upturn which will give a lap of one and a...

If you follow this link https://www.marleyeternit.co.uk/Roofing/Profiled-Sheeting/Profile-6.aspx to the Marley Eternit website and scroll down to brochures, you can download fitting guides for sheets, ridges, barge board etc. As RWG has said, don't take too much notice of the dimensions given...

Depends what is going on the roof - if it's fibre cement, max spacing is 4'6" or 1375mm. If metal on the roof spacing can be up to 1800mm.

Yes that's correct, metal outer sheet then vapour barrier (such as plastic sheet) or breather membrane (such as Tyvek), then insulation and your metal or timber liner. Even with an air gap without some sort of membrane/barrier, over the years your insulation will become sodden and slip down the...