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<blockquote data-quote="Dave645" data-source="post: 6585238" data-attributes="member: 55822"><p>Your correct second floor if you have access to a loft is not too hard, ground floors are more work.</p><p><a href="https://www.zehnder.co.uk/" target="_blank">https://www.zehnder.co.uk/</a></p><p>I used this companies unit it’s was head and shoulders above the competition at the time I was looking around at home building shows.</p><p> they have some intresting flat ducting now designed for retro fitting or so I have been told.</p><p>With a claimed 95% efficiency and I can tell you, there units are great, especaly if you add a ground pipe, </p><p><a href="https://www.rehau.com/gb-en/homeowners/ground-air-heat-exchanger-erth-tubes" target="_blank">https://www.rehau.com/gb-en/homeowners/ground-air-heat-exchanger-erth-tubes</a></p><p></p><p>I designed my house using info I found on websites like </p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/" target="_blank">https://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/</a></p><p>Look at their case studies </p><p>I found a great heating engineer that design my underfloor heating system and worked with me on the heating design, </p><p><a href="http://www.jknrenewables.co.uk" target="_blank">http://www.jknrenewables.co.uk</a></p><p>It’s basically using close centres to maximise emitter efficiency with underfloor heating.</p><p>He actualy lives in my village.</p><p></p><p>If your gutting a house it’s a great place to start from but you still need to be carful ducting for heat recovery units needs planning fully out on the how your going to actually accommodate The ducting.</p><p>If the house has high ceilings it’s possible that you create a false ceiling to run the ducts around under an existing floor.</p><p>I used open web joists the ones with metal in them, but if I did it again I would go concrete joists and a false ceiling they are just rock solid floors. And thinner.</p><p>Air tightness is about details it doesn’t cost much extra to do but you need to be mindful at every stage of the build as some things are easy to do at some stages but harder to do later.</p><p>Floor joists is a good point if you rap the ends by putting a small bit of air membrane under them into the cavity then installing the joists and block work that between them, then bring it up over them and back into the house during construction of the rest of the wall, and tape the joints you avoid siliconing the floor joist into the block work pockets they sit in. Which can be done but takes far more time and effort.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Dave645, post: 6585238, member: 55822"] Your correct second floor if you have access to a loft is not too hard, ground floors are more work. [URL]https://www.zehnder.co.uk/[/URL] I used this companies unit it’s was head and shoulders above the competition at the time I was looking around at home building shows. they have some intresting flat ducting now designed for retro fitting or so I have been told. With a claimed 95% efficiency and I can tell you, there units are great, especaly if you add a ground pipe, [URL]https://www.rehau.com/gb-en/homeowners/ground-air-heat-exchanger-erth-tubes[/URL] I designed my house using info I found on websites like [URL]https://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/[/URL] Look at their case studies I found a great heating engineer that design my underfloor heating system and worked with me on the heating design, [URL]http://www.jknrenewables.co.uk[/URL] It’s basically using close centres to maximise emitter efficiency with underfloor heating. He actualy lives in my village. If your gutting a house it’s a great place to start from but you still need to be carful ducting for heat recovery units needs planning fully out on the how your going to actually accommodate The ducting. If the house has high ceilings it’s possible that you create a false ceiling to run the ducts around under an existing floor. I used open web joists the ones with metal in them, but if I did it again I would go concrete joists and a false ceiling they are just rock solid floors. And thinner. Air tightness is about details it doesn’t cost much extra to do but you need to be mindful at every stage of the build as some things are easy to do at some stages but harder to do later. Floor joists is a good point if you rap the ends by putting a small bit of air membrane under them into the cavity then installing the joists and block work that between them, then bring it up over them and back into the house during construction of the rest of the wall, and tape the joints you avoid siliconing the floor joist into the block work pockets they sit in. Which can be done but takes far more time and effort. [/QUOTE]
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